D44 ChroMo question

[drtsqrl]

I've been running Waggy D44's with stock shafts and spicer joints on my samurai buggy for several years now with no problems, other than one rear shaft that I bent and twisted the splines. I may finally have some money to upgrade the shafts, so I would like some opinions one which brands to use. I know that Superiors seem to have the best reputation, but they are also the priciest. Seems my choices in the front are Superior, Alloy USA, Yukon, Warn, and Moser... not sure who makes rears other than Moser. So what do you all recommend?

Also thinking about using the Longfield 300M superjoints. Any thoughts here?

FYI, I'm running 36" Iroks now, but my next tires will probably be 38" TSL's. Gears are 5.38's with Detroits and 6:1 t-case and 1.8:1 doubler, with the 1.6 8-valve.

 

[Cody]

I ran Yukon's and the bobby long heat treated spicer joints and was happy. If you're aren't going through a ton of shafts now, I would think that the Yukon's would be plenty strong.

Otherwise, Warn and Superior have the best rep from my experience.

 

[I Lean]

Alloy USA is no more, so they're out. The people that ran that are now affiliated with Motive Gear IIRC, and are called TEN Factory.

I think any of the aftermarket offerings in shafts will do very well for you--although I have heard negative things about Moser front shafts. (rears are good, fronts have soft yokes.....but no personal experience there)

For joints, Long's might be the strongest (as claimed) but will also require the most diligent maintenance since they are pure metal-to-metal contact. If you don't keep up on the greasing they could gall/seize.

If you haven't had any problems with your stock Spicer joints, I'd almost say just get a new set of 760's and run them with full-circle clips. They tend to hold up better in Chromoly shafts than they do in Spicers shafts anyway.

 

[Herzog]

Jeff - I run Warn / CTM's up front and Moser in the back. Don't get Moser front axles. From my understanding (which may be dated) they never did heat treat the u-joint ears on their front axles and have a record for failure. They are pros at rear axles though.

I'd recommend Warn front axle shafts again.

Tanner runs longfield joints in his buggy and I've been impressed so far. Especially with how much throttle he has put toward them.

 

[Kiel]

When I had my sami, The problem was the rears. Nothing above 1541 in a rear application and they had to be custom. Only ones I could find were moser's and they wanted an old set to make sure they got them right. Nobody hd a factory aftermarket set, or cut to fit blanks

 

[Alabama]

im running warn shafts in the front and a warn full floater kit in the rear on my 44s.
i have had no problems. im running 36 tsl if i was going to do it again i would go with
warn again

 

[DAA]

Speaking of Longfields...

These Bobby Long CV's for D44's look very interesting. $850 for the set, cheaper than chromo's and CTM's, should be both stronger and smoother running as well.

They haven't been around long enough to have any real feedback on them yet though. But I'm interested to see what the consensus is on them a year from now. I sure like the concept.

- DAA

 

[drtsqrl]

Thanks guys for the replies. For me, it looks like Mosers in the rear are the best bet. In the front, I am leaning towards Yukons with either the Yukon or Longfield joints. Looking at Bobby Longs test results, I see that the Longfield joint is way stronger than the Yukon, but the Yukon is roughly twice the strength of a Spicer. The price is roughly the same on either u-joint, so would there be any reason not to go with the Longfield, such as maintenance, ease of installation, or ??? Any advantage of using a somewhat weaker u-joint as a "fuse" (in which case the Spicer u-joint might be best), or is that just stupid?

 

[Devel]

id rather brake a hub than a u-joint... or a u joint than a shaft

 

[I Lean]

For joints, Long's might be the strongest (as claimed) but will also require the most diligent maintenance since they are pure metal-to-metal contact. If you don't keep up on the greasing they could gall/seize.

If you haven't had any problems with your stock Spicer joints, I'd almost say just get a new set of 760's and run them with full-circle clips. They tend to hold up better in Chromoly shafts than they do in Spicers shafts anyway.

I'll just quote that guy above as the answer here.

One thing to dispute that opinion though, is that if you break a Spicer U-joint in a Chromo shaft, you could very well ruin the shaft when the yokes make contact, or when chunks of U-joint get wedged in places. That's where a stronger joint makes sense.

 

[Kiel]

Speaking of Longfields...

These Bobby Long CV's for D44's look very interesting. $850 for the set, cheaper than chromo's and CTM's, should be both stronger and smoother running as well.

They haven't been around long enough to have any real feedback on them yet though. But I'm interested to see what the consensus is on them a year from now. I sure like the concept.

- DAA

Those are only for rubicon dana 44's not LP dana 44's. They are supposed to come out with some for the dana 30's also.

 

[Craig S]

Thanks guys for the replies. For me, it looks like Mosers in the rear are the best bet. In the front, I am leaning towards Yukons with either the Yukon or Longfield joints. Looking at Bobby Longs test results, I see that the Longfield joint is way stronger than the Yukon, but the Yukon is roughly twice the strength of a Spicer. The price is roughly the same on either u-joint, so would there be any reason not to go with the Longfield, such as maintenance, ease of installation, or ??? Any advantage of using a somewhat weaker u-joint as a "fuse" (in which case the Spicer u-joint might be best), or is that just stupid?

Using a weak u-joint is not good, it just lets you break on the trail in a bad spot. The other problem is when you break a shaft or joint under power it usually takes out the rest of the components on that side such as the locker (Detroits usually), spindle and hub as well as mangling the ears on the axle shafts. Always use the best stuff you can afford, it's cheaper and better in the long run.

Bobby Long joints are the strongest and have the best warranty, then CTM, Yukon, and Spicer. They all need grease and work well if you are off road or have hubs for the street.

Axle shaft ratings as follows, Superior, Currie, Warn, Moser (rear), Yukon & Spicer. Alloy USA is out of buisiness, but had a reasonable product that was a little better than Yukon with a great warranty.

Bobby Long CV joints and axles are awsome. I use them in my front D60, bullitproof with the best warrany of any.

I have ran all of the above products at one time or another and they are all good. For my vehicles I use Superior and Bobby Long as a first choice, Currie is a close second. When I don't use those companies I usually revert to Yukon for price if I have to.

 

[dstrbd1]

I ran ran the Yukon super joints with the yukon shafts and was really impressed with them when I had my D44. I managed to bust a shaft into peices after a bad hop on Guardrail in Tellico. I called in ordered 4 new caps and threw the u-joint right back in. The cross was completely unharmed. They are cheaper than CTM's and very good in my opinion. Now I am running alloy USA chromos with spicer joints in my Pro Rock D60. Company that built the axle swears I won't need a stronger joint. We will see though.

 

[drtsqrl]

Craig, thanks for the great info. I think I'll pony up the extra bucks and get Superiors for the front.

One more question. How do the Dutchman rear axles compare to the Mosers?