• RME Gear & Apparel

Dana 30 High Steer

1993yj

1993yj

.
Location
Salt Lake
dbdproductions said:
There are spacers available from jks that will allow the swap without machining down the TJ Hub. http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/jksfabparts.html
Then all you do is redrill the rotors with a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. Please correct me if any of this is wrong. I may try and do this on my XJ. By the way I'm the one selling the WJ dana 30. Having the high steer has been nice, but to do the conversion for better brakes is a waste of money. Anyone who owns a WJ should be able to tell you that the brakes suck!!! ( The rotors are infamous for warping.)
Click to expand...

I guess that is all you do. Kevin's site didn't give much info, but neither did JKS:

http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/m...B_930&Store_Code=JKS01&Category_Code=FABParts

I can't tell if you use the stock XJ/YJ hub with this or what. I guess that the hubs on both the YJ and WJ are the same diameter and spline count. I think I could re-drill the rotors on my own just fine. If your axle is in good condition I may take that route. I guess wheel spacers/adapters would be an option too, I am just not too keen on running them up front. I know that some people have upgraded to the 03 and newer calipers, saying that they won't warp as much, but they are $80 a piece, more what I am looking for. My Jeep hardly sees pavement, so I think that the '99 brakes would work, guess I really just have to figure out how this flange spacer works.
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
As much as I dislike Teraflex, their knuckle is probably your best bet. It get's everything up out of the way like it should be, it's strong and durable and you can still use TRE's. FWIW I have the Tera knuckle on my Rubicon and I have had no issues with it.

You can also talk to Troy at www.ToysXTroy.com, I believe is the website address... He also has a knuckle like Tera's, but it's not a Tera knuckle.
 
RockMonkey

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
1993yj said:
Did that knuckle cost about $300? And what did you do for drag link, tie-rod and pitman arm?

Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

My dad bought the knuckle, so I don't know what it cost. I'm sure it was not cheap. I built a drag link out of DOM tube. Cut it the right length, tapped it for the tie rod ends, and bolted it up. I might have made the tie rod too. I can't remember. We might have just used the stock one. He had a drop pitman arm from the 2.5" Rancho lift that we put on years (and years and years) ago. I don't remember if we used that one or put a stock one back on. If you do buy the Tera knuckle you will have to taper the hole to accept the tie rod end. I did all the fabrication at RockLogic. They can help you with anything you can't do yourself. I'm sure all of the other local shops can do the same.
 
Devel

Devel

Just an Outlaw....
Location
North Salt Lake
since u r going to all this work u might as well go to the junkyard buy a TJ D30 and 4 Link the front end, this way you dont have to worry about the leaf springs
 
DevinB

DevinB

I like traffic lights
Location
Down Or'm
dbdproductions said:
Anyone who owns a WJ should be able to tell you that the brakes suck!!! ( The rotors are infamous for warping.)
Click to expand...

Yeah, that happens. It was actually a caliper problem.

If it were me, I'd honestly look into the WJ swap a lot more - do some searches on Jeeps Unlimited. There's a lot to be gained for only $200 bones plus a little here and there. You'd be spending less than the $300 for the Tera knuckle and come out on top with better brakes and beefier tie rod and drag link. I'm not saying to dive in and commit, but at least do the research. Even if you decided not to go that route, you've learned something.

Devin
 
B

Bone Down

Well-Known Member
1993yj said:
Did that knuckle cost about $300? And what did you do for drag link, tie-rod and pitman arm?

Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

Shop around you don't have to buy it from Tera direct sometimes if you shop hard enough you can find one of their distributors that can get it to you for less including the shipping.

try DC4WD (on some stuff no one can touch his prices) see if they can offer you a better price. Start there then do some more research until you find a price that fits into your budget. Since this is just a temp fix until the right 60 deal rolls around, stick with the "least money spent" logic as you most likely will lose money on this anyway and that is money that could be well used in the 60 department.

DC4WD was $80 cheaper to my door, than anyone I contacted on my 6" cutout bushwacker flares
 
1993yj

1993yj

.
Location
Salt Lake
I appreciate all of the suggestions, and now just have to decide what route I am going to take. I like the WJ idea mainly because it may be the cheapest. I don't mind doing more work myself such as replacing knuckles, etc. I have had to do it in the past (unfortunately I forgot to put the stub shaft back in during a break in Moab, and no one in town had a replacement knuckle, but that's another story).

Either route I take I think I am still going to need a pair of 1/2" block spacers up front for flipping my tie-rod and probably a stock drop pitman arm (I just cleaned out the garage a bit back and threw my old one away thinking that I would never need it. Damnit). If anyone has any of those items laying around and wants to get rid of them let me know and I can be of some assistance.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top