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Dana 44 under a diesel???

Rot Box

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Sorry for the long post :rolleyes: Anyway so far I've been very pleased with my 86 F250 that I picked up a few months ago. One of the only thing that I don't like is the TTB Dana 44 thats under the front end. The bushings are worn out and the alignment is out (just like every other TTB Ford :rolleyes:). Soooo I'm comtemplating a swap.

My question is: Will a HP D44 out of a late 70's Ford F250 hold up to the weight (almost a 1000lbs!), and torque of my 6.9 diesel? Physicaly the housing on the TTB is much larger, but the my hubs are tiny compared to the solid axle ones. The diffs both have high pinions--probably the same size, and the ball joints seem to be comparable. The only problem I can see is the housing bending under the weight, but I dunno......

Btw I only use 4wd on snow days and muddy roads as this is my tow rig. I also can't justify spending $1000+ dollars on a HP D60 for a rig that is rarely off road. Thanks,

Andrew
 
Milner

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
Location
Hiding behind a camera
I have considered using a 3/4 44 in my f250. Axle wise, the stregth is the same (even d50's neck down to 30 spline) But my biggest concern is the wieght of the motor sitting over it and that wieght on the wheelbearings....
I bet it would hold up fine if trussed, but those wheel bearings are really whats stopping me....
 
mbryson

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Location
Bountiful, land of rocks
I think you'd be fine. I bet you could run a big block chev and winch bumper and winch on a D44 front. That's gotta be within a hundred lbs or so of a thousand.
 
420willys

420willys

Registered User
Location
holland mass yes its the east coast
i think the ball joints would be in question, i think the 44 will hold out if proper maintance is done to them tho. why not upgrade to a TTB dana 50. i had one in my 89 with a 8' foot fisher plow, a utility body stuffed with a welder and all the fixings. i never had a problem with the 50 other than the center U-joint breaking during a storm. i had the HD version witch use's some of the parts as the 60, jason.
 
Rot Box

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
rckcrlr said:
I have considered using a 3/4 44 in my f250. Axle wise, the stregth is the same (even d50's neck down to 30 spline) But my biggest concern is the wieght of the motor sitting over it and that wieght on the wheelbearings....
I bet it would hold up fine if trussed, but those wheel bearings are really whats stopping me....
Click to expand...

My brother has a HP D44 out of a 79 under his 90's Chev, and his bearings and hubs are a lot bigger than mine. Mabye it's just certain years :confused:
 
red

red

Active Member
Location
Eagle Mountain
what are your plans with the f250? if its mostly street and mild wheelin the 44 should be just fine (ball joints will wear faster). if its going to be on the rocks i'd truss it personally.
 
Maverick

Maverick

old-school
Location
Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
Rot Box said:
Sorry for the long post :rolleyes: Anyway so far I've been very pleased with my 86 F250 that I picked up a few months ago. One of the only thing that I don't like is the TTB Dana 44 thats under the front end. The bushings are worn out and the alignment is out (just like every other TTB Ford :rolleyes:). Soooo I'm comtemplating a swap.
Andrew
Click to expand...

Why not a D50 solid axle from a stuperduty? That's what is in the front of mine, and Milner mentioned putting one in his. Seems to work just fine for my 9000 lb pig.
 
Milner

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
Location
Hiding behind a camera
I Lean said:
8x170mm.
Click to expand...

Yep still sitting here....no economical way to get 8 on 6.5.

Custom machine work to re-drill, then I would have to have a spare done too, to carry just in case....

About $300-400 for custom adapters they have to be atleast 1.25" thick to get everything to work.

Looked at making custom spindle adapters to use 60 or 50 outers, but there really is not a good way to make that work either. At minimum you would have to have custom outer shafts.

Other option is swapping out the rear to a later sterling with the metric patern, then you gain disk brakes (if you're lucky) but need new wheels and brake MC....

When it comes down to it, just bite the bullet and buy a 60. It sucks, but....
 
Rot Box

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
I thought about the TTB D50, but the hubs and brakes are not my problem--the many moving/wearing parts are...

Another alternative I've considered is the 99ish and later D60 or D50 solid beam axles out of a later Super Duty combined with a Visteon Sterling with factory rear disks for the rear. I'd have the newer (goofy) lug pattern, and unit bearings in the front though. If I found a good deal then that wouldn't be too bad I guess :-\

Anyway I compared my axle with my brothers 79 HP D44, and his brakes, hubs, and bearings are definatly a LOT beefier than mine, and the ball joints are about the same size. I'm thinking that with a mild truss, and sticking to my 245's I'd probably be ok if not better. I have found a few of these axles for $100-$200 so I really wouldn't be out too much compared to the other options. Still very open to input and suggestions though. Thanks again,

Andrew
 
Maverick

Maverick

old-school
Location
Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
Rot Box said:
I thought about the TTB D50, but the hubs and brakes are not my problem--the many moving/wearing parts are...

Another alternative I've considered is the 99ish and later D60 or D50 solid beam axles out of a later Super Duty combined with a Visteon Sterling with factory rear disks for the rear. I'd have the newer (goofy) lug pattern, and unit bearings in the front though. If I found a good deal then that wouldn't be too bad I guess :-\

Anyway I compared my axle with my brothers 79 HP D44, and his brakes, hubs, and bearings are definatly a LOT beefier than mine, and the ball joints are about the same size. I'm thinking that with a mild truss, and sticking to my 245's I'd probably be ok if not better. I have found a few of these axles for $100-$200 so I really wouldn't be out too much compared to the other options. Still very open to input and suggestions though. Thanks again,

Andrew
Click to expand...

Um...what ratio do you want? If you want 3.73's, and can find a set of stuperduty 4.30's from a V10, I'll take those and give you mine.

heh heh, then I'll have to go with 37's...
 
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