dana 60 build up ?'s

94rodeo

Registered User
Location
Ephraim
I have a dana 60 front from a cucv and a rear 14 bolt. Both have 4.10's the rear has a detroit.

I am looking into different gears around 5.38's and possibley what is involved to use 15" rims and if that is not recommended.

The rig is mostly a trail rig, but does get driven to work sometimes. I also was wondering on what the cost is looking like to make it fit 15" rims.

Thanks,

Troy

Oh, what else would you recommend to do to these axles as the front is just stock and the rear is as well other than the locker.
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
If they have 4.10's, they are not from a CUCV. CUCV's had 4.56's. Unless... the weird duallies MAY have had 4.10's. Meh.

I wouldn't use 15's m'self, because you have brake issues then, grinding the caliper and whatnot. 16's have plenty of tires available these days.

5.38's are going to kill you on the way to work unless it's a short trip... or you've got a stock car motor. :D


Rebuild the kingpins/bearings/joints. Pretty easy to do, but it's not cheap to do the whole deal.

Leave it open while you save up for an ARB. If it's just a trail rig, spool it or Lincoln lock it.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
What they said, but I'd also add alloy shafts and 35 spline rears...

When I did mine, I had to replace rims and tires at the same time, and I chose 16's so that I could keep my larger 1 ton brakes. To me this was one of the biggest benifits of going 1 ton and I didn't want to give up my better brakes!!!! Even with 39's, I can lock 'em up on pavement if I want...
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
True.... sooooo.....

5.38's are going to kill you on the way to work with a streetable tire in a street legal size. Better? :D


It's all about the frame height and GVW of the intended vehicle.


I'd go to the 17" wheels or something. Why stick with the 15"? With 5.38" gears, I'm thinking you're going to want about a 40" tire or so with an overdrive tranny to make it even close to streetable.
 

Meat_

Banned
Location
Lehi
True.... sooooo.....

5.38's are going to kill you on the way to work with a streetable tire in a street legal size. Better? :D

I wouldn't have minded 5.38's in the Blazer with my 38.5's.... and yes they are streetable, had them doing 70+ and it drove like it was stock. Granted 4.88's or 5.13's would have been better :hickey:
 

94rodeo

Registered User
Location
Ephraim
Been running 5.38's for 5 years now in my rodeo with 35's and then switched to 37's. Seems to be a good gear ratio for the power curve in the rodeo on the highway.
 

94rodeo

Registered User
Location
Ephraim
It's all about the frame height and GVW of the intended vehicle.


I'd go to the 17" wheels or something. Why stick with the 15"? With 5.38" gears, I'm thinking you're going to want about a 40" tire or so with an overdrive tranny to make it even close to streetable.


Wanted to stick with the 15 inch rims because my current tires are for 15's and just don't want to go through the hassle of selling and buying tires. Guess I will though. Seems like there are more used 16 inch tires than 17's though.
 

94rodeo

Registered User
Location
Ephraim
True.... sooooo.....

5.38's are going to kill you on the way to work with a streetable tire in a street legal size. Better? :D

Not sure why 5.38's would kill me on the way to work??? Been running fine for years now. Even drove to fort irwin California and back a few times while I was in the army.
 

rondo

rondo
Location
Boise Idaho
I think the rim size should be based also on what tire you want to run; I have some 16' beadlocks and i noticed there aren't as many tire choices out there as i'd liked.

5.38s are okay; i've run them for many years with 35s and no issues.

Your axles must have come off a M1008 1 1/4 ton truck.
 

94rodeo

Registered User
Location
Ephraim
Forget what truck they came out of. That is just what I was told. I just want to know what you suggest before they under my rig. I am leaning towards just throwing a spool up front and getting a hydro assist.


Troy
 

RamToy

Wickha Wickha Wa
Location
West Jordan, UT
Keep your tires if ya wanna save some money right off the bat. Im running 15" wheels and all it cost me was time to grind the calipers and a few grinding disks. Ohh yeah and grinding sucks and it takes forever. With that being said I wish i would have went with 17" rims right off the bat. But oh well. I wouldnt run a spool unless its a trail only rig. I have my front welded and as soon as I have extra money in my pockets imma get a detroit. But for now it works just fine. Been running it for 3 years with no problems so far ( knock on wood ) But if i were to drive it on the street at all id get some kind of selectable locker.
 
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