dana 60 cut down

[James K]

COOL! I can't imagine cutting a 60. They be kind of hard to find (well, $$$ anyway). Instead of measuring twice cut once, I think I'd measure 8-10 times and go back over EVERYTHING before cutting and then measure again 2-3 times..........

So, now if you want it back to full width you just run some dually hubs?

I measured and went over it for a week I can't remember how many times I measured it.


na, the dually hubs wouldn't work. the center to center on the spring perchs will be different now.

 

[harkinoff]

how do you change the caster on the short side, without shortening the tube? just grind the weld out and beat the C off?

 

[James K]

how do you change the caster on the short side, without shortening the tube? just grind the weld out and beat the C off?

I did not need to change the caster. it is already set at 6*.



sorry guys just didn't have the time to work on it last night :-\

 

[BioNuke1]

When welding, don't you need to use a filler metal high in nickel to bond the mild steel tubes to the cast "C"?

 

[VANDALL]

Don't Need 2

When welding, don't you need to use a filler metal high in nickel to bond the mild steel tubes to the cast "C"?

I never did and I built over 380 of TERAFLEX diff's
when I work there.........


VANDALL.

 

[RockMonkey]

How did you come up with that length, James? Did you find a stock application shaft that will work for that length for cheap(ish) spares? Cool tech. I'm gonna need to do this to mine soon.

 

[James K]

How did you come up with that length, James? Did you find a stock application shaft that will work for that length for cheap(ish) spares? Cool tech. I'm gonna need to do this to mine soon.

the size I came up with was so I could get it as narrow as I could for my app. while still maintaining a stock short side shaft and eliminating the 2 bolts in the cast on the shortside that hold the spring plate. I want to run ubolts instead of bolts.

unfortunatly(sp) the shaft on the long side will be custom :-\

 

[Hickey]

When welding, don't you need to use a filler metal high in nickel to bond the mild steel tubes to the cast "C"?

The c is forged.

 

[James K]

got back after it today.


the cut I made with a thin abrasive wheel to get through the weld and give myself a line to follow with the sawzall.

 

[James K]

then I cut three cuts in the tube left in the "C". I used a sharpie line as a guide to follow the thickness of the tube.

then took the plasma cutter and made a bevel cut to finish off any weld and expose the "line" between the "C" and the tube remaining.

and then simply knocked it out in three pieces with a 5 lb hammer.

 

[James K]

cleaned the "C"'s edge up and used a flapper disk on the tube to clean it. Then proceeded to pound the "C" back on making sure to check the caster angle repeatedly in the process.

 

[James K]

now I just need to weld it back on

 

[BioNuke1]

well illbe damned....

 

[muleskinner]

Looks good James

 

[Coreshot]

way to go, James. looks like it'll work out great

 

[James K]

honestly, it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

 

[Hickey]

honestly, it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

That's what she said...

Looks good though

 

[harkinoff]

honestly, it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

Right on, you make it look so easy....... Makes me want to narrow mine up for legal issues on the street.. That and an excuse go link front and rear, then that goes into another legal issue

 

[Greg]

now I just need to weld it back on

Did you weld it? Multiple passes? What welder did you use? Settings?

 

[Hickey]

Did you weld it? Multiple passes? What welder did you use? Settings?

Yours will do it just fine.