Dana 60 knuckle rotation

[Hickey]

this is completely different then a 8.8, duh.

Oh... :guilty:

 

[420willys]

im just busting your balls about hitting the keys. the way i descibe how i did the weld is a standard multi pass stringer weld. how its done is you weld one pass all around the tube ( dont worry about shrinking it is a very tight fit on the tube ), you can let it cool a little it's not a big deal theres enough of a heat soak there ( thick metal ). now the root will or should be 50% weld on the tube and 50% on the "C", the next weld pass should penertrtate 50% of the root weld and 50% of the knuckle, then you put one on the top of that one witch will 50% on the bottom weld and 50% on the tube. now keep in mind you have to stand the axle up on end to do this type of welding efectivly. this is what im talking about,
http://www.aussieweld.com.au/arcwelding/page6/page6.htm.

they show it done using stick on angle iron but it would be the same with wire on tube just round, notice how the the first pass is the root ( marked number 1 ) then the next weld ( marked number two ) is half on the root and half on the base plate, the finaly weld ( marked number 3 ) is half on #2 and cover the root but half on the top plate. buy doing it this way you are making a very strong weld and if your welds are in the 1/4 to 5/16 size your ( when your done ) end weld will be around 3/8 to 1/2'' in size and this is a little bigger than factory.

i have welded like this for years and i have done welds up to 2'' big, that alot of wire. heres another link for backstepping your welds, http://www.weldinginspectionsvcs.com/misc/backstepsequence.htm, this helps alot to cover your cold starts and helps with distorion, jason.

 

[waynehartwig]

My god, you are afraid of your welder, aren't you.

No, I'm afraid of doing it wrong and having the tire fall off! The welder can't hurt me, unless I catch myself on fire! Like I said before, before I saw this thread, I would have just done a pass on the tube with my 251 and then followed up with some 7018. Come to find out, that logic was way off base. So now I'm trying to understand the correct, better, way of doing it so I don't have problems later - safety problems.

I did that with this axle (two passes - one on the tube, not touching the center and the second is touching the center, in the v and over the first pass). Each pass was 1" long, spin the tube, run it again on the other side opposite, then the other end do the same thing, etc. Letting each cool before bringing the heat back on the tube/housing. My logic was to keep my welds parallel to the tube to keep from 'pulling' the tubes and warping the housing.

 

[waynehartwig]

If you are considering packing up your axle and taking it somewhere to be welded, then why did you just buy a new mm250? You are acting like you have never welded anything before.

Read my post that I just made to your last question... I think it answers this.

 

[waynehartwig]

im just busting your balls about hitting the keys. the way i descibe how i did the weld is a standard multi pass stringer weld. how its done is you weld one pass all around the tube ( dont worry about shrinking it is a very tight fit on the tube ), you can let it cool a little it's not a big deal theres enough of a heat soak there ( thick metal ). now the root will or should be 50% weld on the tube and 50% on the "C", the next weld pass should penertrtate 50% of the root weld and 50% of the knuckle, then you put one on the top of that one witch will 50% on the bottom weld and 50% on the tube. now keep in mind you have to stand the axle up on end to do this type of welding efectivly. this is what im talking about,
http://www.aussieweld.com.au/arcwelding/page6/page6.htm.

they show it done using stick on angle iron but it would be the same with wire on tube just round, notice how the the first pass is the root ( marked number 1 ) then the next weld ( marked number two ) is half on the root and half on the base plate, the finaly weld ( marked number 3 ) is half on #2 and cover the root but half on the top plate. buy doing it this way you are making a very strong weld and if your welds are in the 1/4 to 5/16 size your ( when your done ) end weld will be around 3/8 to 1/2'' in size and this is a little bigger than factory.

i have welded like this for years and i have done welds up to 2'' big, that alot of wire. heres another link for backstepping your welds, http://www.weldinginspectionsvcs.com/misc/backstepsequence.htm, this helps alot to cover your cold starts and helps with distorion, jason.

That makes a lot of sense seeing it - Thanks!!! Thanks for the links, too.. I'll spend some time on them.

 

[bobdog]

.

What I was thinking in the beginning was a pass next to, but not touching the knuckle - making a V, kinda (root pass right?). QUOTE]

NO NO NO Wrong! Now I have to vote for the option of taking it wo a welding shop to have it done.

 

[waynehartwig]

.

What I was thinking in the beginning was a pass next to, but not touching the knuckle - making a V, kinda (root pass right?). QUOTE]

NO NO NO Wrong! Now I have to vote for the option of taking it wo a welding shop to have it done.

You don't agree with this?

im just busting your balls about hitting the keys. the way i descibe how i did the weld is a standard multi pass stringer weld. how its done is you weld one pass all around the tube ( dont worry about shrinking it is a very tight fit on the tube ), you can let it cool a little it's not a big deal theres enough of a heat soak there ( thick metal ). now the root will or should be 50% weld on the tube and 50% on the "C", the next weld pass should penertrtate 50% of the root weld and 50% of the knuckle, then you put one on the top of that one witch will 50% on the bottom weld and 50% on the tube. now keep in mind you have to stand the axle up on end to do this type of welding efectivly. this is what im talking about,
http://www.aussieweld.com.au/arcwelding/page6/page6.htm.

they show it done using stick on angle iron but it would be the same with wire on tube just round, notice how the the first pass is the root ( marked number 1 ) then the next weld ( marked number two ) is half on the root and half on the base plate, the finaly weld ( marked number 3 ) is half on #2 and cover the root but half on the top plate. buy doing it this way you are making a very strong weld and if your welds are in the 1/4 to 5/16 size your ( when your done ) end weld will be around 3/8 to 1/2'' in size and this is a little bigger than factory.

i have welded like this for years and i have done welds up to 2'' big, that alot of wire. heres another link for backstepping your welds, http://www.weldinginspectionsvcs.com/misc/backstepsequence.htm, this helps alot to cover your cold starts and helps with distorion, jason.

 

[bobdog]

I do agree with 420willys. What worries me is that what you thought a root pass is would actually lead to a much weaker weld than not running your "root pass". This whole discussion is probably unnesesary anyway as the tight press fit of the knuckle makes the weld less critical. If you want it done right though take it to an experienced welder or take a class and practice a lot before you do it yourself. If you really want to do it yourself what I would do is buy a spool of .045 duelshield wire (use c25 gas) run the welder at around 28volts and adjust wire speed for a nice smooth spray and burn it in with one pass.

 

[Craig S]

I can't believe this thread has gone on this long.....

1. Tack weld the yokes on.
2. Use narrow beads (stringers) on opposite sides 4 places to avoid the weld pulling right after tacking. You should now have 4 welds about an inch long 90 degrees apart. Clean everything with a wire brush.
3. Preheat the joint to 300 dehrees F. if using an undersized welder or to just make it easy to weld.
4. Start welding between the 1" welds on opposite sides alternating from side to side until you have filled in the gaps. Clean the work with a brush.
5. Weld the crap out of it and just keep going around till your done. Keep clean between all passes.
6. Grind out anything that looks like bad. A 3/8" -1/2" fillet should hold.

I use pre-heat on all thick carbon steel work right after tacking the part together. It's a ton easer to weld that way. 7018 (1/8"), ER70S-2 or ER70S-6 will work fine (.035).

AWS Certified Weld Inspector, ASME code inspector, MT/PT level II, been welding for 40 years and still like it.

I do agree with 420willys. What worries me is that what you thought a root pass is would actually lead to a much weaker weld than not running your "root pass". This whole discussion is probably unnesesary anyway as the tight press fit of the knuckle makes the weld less critical. If you want it done right though take it to an experienced welder or take a class and practice a lot before you do it yourself. If you really want to do it yourself what I would do is buy a spool of .045 duelshield wire (use c25 gas) run the welder at around 28volts and adjust wire speed for a nice smooth spray and burn it in with one pass.

 

[Kiel]

I can't believe this thread has gone on this long.....

1. Tack weld the yokes on.
2. Use narrow beads (stringers) on opposite sides 4 places to avoid the weld pulling right after tacking. You should now have 4 welds about an inch long 90 degrees apart. Clean everything with a wire brush.
3. Preheat the joint to 300 dehrees F. if using an undersized welder or to just make it easy to weld.
4. Start welding between the 1" welds on opposite sides alternating from side to side until you have fillied in the gaps. Clean the work with a brush.
5. Weld the crap out of it and just keep going around till your done. Keep clean between all passes.
6. Grind out anything that looks like bad. A 3/8" -1/2" fillet should hold.

I use pre-heat on all thick carbon steel work right after tacking the part together. It's a ton easer to weld that way. 7018 (1/8"), ER20s-2 or ER70S-6 will work fine (.035).

AWS Certified Weld Inspector, ASME code inspector, MT/PT level II, been welding for 40 years and still like it.

Yeah, What Craig said

 

[waynehartwig]

It seems like the three of you are saying about the same thing. So I'll post up some pics in my build thread when I go for it. I'll probably do the rear axle first, so I can get it sealed up and tucked away before I start on the front.

I've got other things to do first. My wife has also been out of town working on now two armed robberies (Friday night we were at dinner when she was called with the second one. Had to haul butt back to the house so she could get her vest, gun, etc and respond) totaling about $80k, so that leaves me home alone with a 1.5 year old 24-7. We've 'hired' grandma to fly in from Hawaii and help me so I can get workign on this. She'll be here on the 20th and staying through the 9th I think it is??