Dana 60 rear steer

[camdawg]

I am wanting to run a front Ford Dana 60 in the rear of my buggy for rear steer I know if I do this I will be running on the coast side of the gears. My big question is ball joint or king pin? They say king pin is stronger but I also know the knuckls on a ball joint axles are stronger than the stock king pin knuckls. Have you seen the ball joints break? What axle shafts would you run? And what u joints would you run? I want to make this axle reliable but also try to keep the cost down if possible thanks for any of your help
Camdawg

 

[skippy]

Reliable and high pinion rear axles dont really go together.... I would go kingpin and then upgrade the knuckles

 

[camdawg]

I could go with a Chevy Dana 60 the reason for wanting a Ford was to keep the differentials on the same side I am running a Chevy 60 In the front now. Have you seen any ball joints break out on the trail

 

[skippy]

I have not seen any break but they seem to wear out more often just plan on replacing them every year or every other year and you are ok

 

[camdawg]

Do the high pinions not stand up in the rear very good?

 

[SWALLDOG]

Do the high pinions not stand up in the rear very good?

I think it depends on the type of rig and the abuse it will see. My buddy's old comp buggy, we built a high pinion 60 rear steer axle. He broke gears or seared a pinion every comp. Sometimes both. So then we build a 14 bolt rear steer axle. But that was a comp buggy and he had a heavy foot when he drove! Haha.

On king pins vs ball joints. King pins have so much aftermarket stuff it was always the better choice. But now it seams the ball joints are getting a lot more love. Reid has upgrade knuckles with a high steer arm or a place for a high steer arm, I can't remember which. And there is many companies now making heavy duty cromo ball joints that are supposed to be pretty tuff, some offering a lifetime guarantee. There is spindle and hub conversions to replace the unit bearings. I would not be a posed to running a built ball joint axle in an appropriate rig.

Probably at work under a truck.

 

[camdawg]

Thanks what axle shafts and u joints rid you have the best luck with

 

[jinxspot]

Just don't use portals...

FYI, I had a PSC orbital joystick running off my 4.0L with one PSC pump and dual full hydro double ended rams... worked pretty damn well for such a simple setup (back pressured 1 pump and blew its shaft in 2 years, so I would say use check valves)

on your rear HP D60 I would use a kingpin axle and NOT the narrow 78-79 vesion. Then use Cryogenically treated R&P gears, RCV shafts if you could afford it... or just start off with Yukon 4340 35spline inner and outer with CTM U-Joints and Slugs.

 

[ChestonScout]

Cam i would suggest building a 14 bolt rear.


Your gonna have to buy knuckles and shafts anyway.


Ive seen you drive, you will tear up the ring and pinion running on the coast side. Im positive you would be money ahead doing a 14 bolt steer axle

 

[STAG]

...NOT the narrow 78-79 vesion.

?
'78-'79 had the long drivers tube, '85.5-'92 was the narrow tubed one.

 

[jinxspot]

?
'78-'79 had the long drivers tube, '85.5-'92 was the narrow tubed one.

yep your right chance, I mixed up my years from vague memory... I think a centered diff would be the way to go in the rear anyway.

I think cheston def brought up a good point if you, crawl mag did a pretty sweet steering 14 step by step build a couple years back that looked beefy.

 

[camdawg]

Cool thanks for the info where do you get 14 bolt shafts made?

 

[SWALLDOG]

Thanks what axle shafts and u joints rid you have the best luck with

On Jimmys comp buggy we used Yukon cromo shafts and ctm joints and they seemed to hold up well even w his heavy right foot. He was running 39" red bfg krawlers and a 350 vortec that was tuned up a little.
On the green jeep we built, 14 bolts front and rear, we also used Yukon shafts and ctm joints. Broke a front shafts first trip out, short inner. But that jeep had 48"s and a 500 hp ls1. Jimmy was driving and I wasn't there so I don't know how hard he was on it, but Jimmy was driving, sooo....... Haha. Put ctm shafts in it after that and have not had a problem.

Cool thanks for the info where do you get 14 bolt shafts made?

We would get the Yukon cromo blanks. Cut them to the right length and take them to Randy at advance 4wheel drive. Pretty sure he took them somewhere else. It took forever but he would give us the best price around. Nick and I were going to start splining our own shafts. Got everything but the cutters. I've been slacking on buying them. And by slacking I mean like 4 years. Haha.


Probably at work under a truck.

 

[idahoyj]

Extreme 4x4 did a steering 14 bolt (front axle) and mentioned where to get the shafts made. (It may have been the same as the Crawl article?)
They used the Crane inner axle seals, built specifically for a steering 14 bolt

 

[STAG]

For shafts you'll want Branik Motorsports.

 

[ChestonScout]

Yup. I was gonna say Branik. Prices have come down since they are gaining in popularity i think.


Or just do what i did when i decided it was time for rear steer....rockwells

 

[camdawg]

Thanks

 

[idahoyj]

Theres a guy here in Twin Falls that has a rear steer D60 for sale.
I think its got ARB locker and CTM shafts already. PM me if you are interested and i can get you in touch with him.

 

[flexyfool]

Do the high pinions not stand up in the rear very good?

I have run rear high pinions for 12 years. The 1st was a Currie 9" (8.8 center section). The 2nd a Dynatrac. The current is a hybrid superduty 60 with 61 outers. I've never had an R&P failure. The current even uses 5.38 gears which outlasted an Atlas 5:1 gear set. The Currie 8.8 center section was stronger than Currie 31 spline shafts. Both shafts twisted on that axle.

I know a guy who has an HP Dana 44 in the rear of his CJ. It is stretched, 38" SX's, 4.3L V6. He's broken the frame in half and grenaded a Dana 20 transfer case. The 44 survives.

Do you want it in a desert racer, rock bouncer, or tow rig? No. But it will do just fine under a lighter, recreational rock crawler.

 

[flexyfool]

I have not seen any break but they seem to wear out more often just plan on replacing them every year or every other year and you are ok

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