Debating loosing weight..

onetuff76

Guard Rail Tester
Location
Lehi
I'm thinking about bobbing off the back section of my bed, just behind the wheel well. Then taking like the last 3 inches of the bed and tailgate and reattaching it to the shortened bed. Any opinions? Thing this would be a fairly doable praject?
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Will you be cutting off the frame up to the shackle too? If not, there really isn't much point. The bed-bob should be fairly straightforward, standard proceedure for 'Yota guys.
 

onetuff76

Guard Rail Tester
Location
Lehi
I'd probably have to do a little suspension work, but I don't want to do to much. My biggest concern is how she'll look and just doing the body work and painting
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
For purely weight reasons, I don't think it's worth it. 3 guys can easily pick any stock fleetside bed up off and put it on a dolly to work on in a body shop. The beds aren't heavy (Ok a little), just bulky....I'd be kind of surprised if you do that much work and lose more than 200 lbs.

For departure angle, you'll have to decide. The bed is not tough to work on if you can weld sheetmetal. If you can't weld sheetmetal, you'll know how by the time you are done. Buy some Bondo and try not to get any thickness over 1/8".......
 

onetuff76

Guard Rail Tester
Location
Lehi
yeah I'm thinking more for angles then weight in all reality, if anything I need more weight back there to keep it from hopping around so bad
 

troutbum

cubi-kill
Location
SLC
One of the better things I did to my scout. I cut out twelve inches, and chopped the frame to the shackle hangers.

Next time I would just tube it out, but it keeps my rig street legal, and I dont scrape my back end over everything. Overall I am happy with it.
 

Rusted

Let's Ride!
Supporting Member
Location
Sandy
mbryson said:
Buy some Bondo and try not to get any thickness over 1/8".......

Or look for Dura-glass (not sure on spelling) it is what they use on fiberglass, and can be used on sheet metal as well. It is about 2x's the price, but can be applied thicker than bondo if needed, and is more flexible when you are done. When you work with it you can tell that it is a much stronger material than bondo.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
rusted said:
Or look for Dura-glass (not sure on spelling) it is what they use on fiberglass, and can be used on sheet metal as well. It is about 2x's the price, but can be applied thicker than bondo if needed, and is more flexible when you are done. When you work with it you can tell that it is a much stronger material than bondo.


I've NEVER liked working with 'glass. Even on a 'vette. Bondo, properly applied, and not thick will last the life of a vehicle.
 

troutbum

cubi-kill
Location
SLC
Lazarus401 said:
Troutbum,

Did you have to move your gas tank? Did you cut your top down to fit? etc, etc...
Fuel cell in the bed, the top is at the bottom of a long list of to do's, but I can't remember the last time I had a top on my junk so no rush :rolleyes:
 

Rusted

Let's Ride!
Supporting Member
Location
Sandy
mbryson said:
I've NEVER liked working with 'glass. Even on a 'vette. Bondo, properly applied, and not thick will last the life of a vehicle.


I am learning as I go. Why don't you like duraglass? While sanding it seems much stronger than bondo. It is harder to work with as far as sanding it down again, but in my mind I figure that it makes for a stronger product. Is the big drawback the time in sanding? I also understand that it holds better if you ever need to apply it over 1/8th inch.
 
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