• RME Gear & Apparel

Dual Sport headlight legality

Caleb

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
So I'm considering picking up one of these

3832-EX-00_w250.jpg


I've read several places that they aren't street legal, but looking at our state requirements I don't see anything that would prevent them from being street legal. So, does anyone know what would prevent this light (or this style of light) from being legal?


A. Two Wheel Dirt Bikes​
[FONT=Arial,Arial]
1. Two wheel dirt bikes may be inspected provided that they have been modified to be street legal. They shall be equipped with the following items, which shall comply with the regulations of the department (UCA 41-6a-1506).
a. One head lamp which, when factory equipped with an automatic lighting ignition system, shall not be disconnected.
b. One tail lamp.
c. Either a tail lamp or a separate lamp which shall be so constructed and placed as to illuminate with a white light the rear registration plate.
d. One red reflector on the rear, either as part of the tail lamp or separately.
e. One stop lamp.
f. A braking system, other than a parking brake, as provided in UCA 41-6a-1623.
g. A horn or warning device in accordance with UCA 41-6a-1625.
h. A muffler and emission control system in accordance with UCA 41-6a-1626.
i. A mirror in accordance with UCA 41-6a-1627.​
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial]Motorcycle Safety Inspection Manual, Effective January 1, 2009 28 ​

[/FONT]
TW0 WHEEL DIRT BIKES - Continued​
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j. Tires must be highway approved in accordance with UCA 41-6a-1636.
k. Non-metal gas tanks are acceptable.
l. Working odometers, although not a safety inspection requirement, are nevertheless required on all vehicles in order to be registered in the state of Utah. (UCA 41-1a-901 Odometers required)
m. Equipped with turn signals if manufactured after January 1, 1973 (49 CFR 571.108), (UCA 41-6a-1601(2)(a)).
a)​
[/FONT]REJECT [FONT=Arial,Arial]when: ​

1) Any of the above requirements are not met.




Source
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ricsrx

ricsrx

Well-Known Member
my consern with that light is it may be to bright, it would pass safety but on the street you may have a problem with the police when you cannot dim it.

been there done that....
 
Caleb

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
ricsrx said:
my consern with that light is it may be to bright, it would pass safety but on the street you may have a problem with the police when you cannot dim it.

been there done that....
Click to expand...
Honestly, I don't plan to ride on the street at night. Sure it could happen but it won't ever be in my plans. I was just wondering if it would stop me from being able to renew :D
 
cruiseroutfit

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
You know the way the inspection and law read, you don't need a hi/low combo... just a single light. I think you'd be fine. While the guy looked at my headlights there were plenty of other things he skipped :D
 
Caleb

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
cruiseroutfit said:
You know the way the inspection and law read, you don't need a hi/low combo... just a single light. I think you'd be fine. While the guy looked at my headlights there were plenty of other things he skipped :D
Click to expand...
I started reading through the inspection manual and it says check high and low IF equipped. The only other requirements are the aiming, it can't be more than +- 4" right or left or +- 4" up or down. I don't know if that light is adjustable. It also has to have the USDOT stamp (which may be the deal killer on this one)

Also, on a semi related note, there is nothing in the manual that says you have to have DOT approved tires. Some people, knowing better may look for the stamp but if they follow the inspection manual, there is nothing that says it needs it :D
 
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Corban_White

Corban_White

Well-Known Member
Location
Payson, AZ
The light should be fine. The tires however.....



Supergper said:
[FONT=Arial,Arial]j. Tires must be highway approved in accordance with UCA 41-6a-1636. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial]a) [/FONT]REJECT [FONT=Arial,Arial]when: [/FONT]​
[FONT=Arial,Arial]1) Any of the above requirements are not met. [/FONT]

[FONT=Arial,Arial]Source[/FONT]
Click to expand...
 
Caleb

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
DeadEye J said:
Yikes. I mean, yikes.
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Yeah, for the HID version, that's a little pricey. I'm actually planning on doing the Halogen version and I think I'm going to get the Baja Designs version which is $225. Still more than a lot of light options but I dig the look and I think the amount of light you get makes it worth it.
 
Jared

Jared

Formerly DeadEye J
Location
Ogden, UT
It may very well be worth it in the end to have a quality, bolt-on product that fits right and works right the first time. I'm a bit more "bargain oriented" when it comes to my mods and I try to do a lot of stuff myself or assembled from various cheaper (but quality) parts.

Automotive headlamps, particularly the higher end stuff like the Sylvania SilverStars, should put out as much light watt for watt as the halogen race stuff and have a good pattern as well... especially if you use a high/low beam combo bulb. I was trying to modify my stock headlight bucket to fit a slightly larger automotive bulb, but will likely have to build up a bracket of some type. If I go that route, I'll probably just get a full size bulb and lose the tiny plastic windshield that straps to the forks. Then I'd have an affordable, high quality light with replacements available at any auto parts store.

On a related note... how much wattage does your stator produce? Many halogen bulbs are rated at 55/65W. I know on my XR650R it is only rated at 50W output, though many guys have said they run 55W lamps with no problems.
 
Caleb

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
DeadEye J said:
It may very well be worth it in the end to have a quality, bolt-on product that fits right and works right the first time. I'm a bit more "bargain oriented" when it comes to my mods and I try to do a lot of stuff myself or assembled from various cheaper (but quality) parts.

Automotive headlamps, particularly the higher end stuff like the Sylvania SilverStars, should put out as much light watt for watt as the halogen race stuff and have a good pattern as well... especially if you use a high/low beam combo bulb. I was trying to modify my stock headlight bucket to fit a slightly larger automotive bulb, but will likely have to build up a bracket of some type. If I go that route, I'll probably just get a full size bulb and lose the tiny plastic windshield that straps to the forks. Then I'd have an affordable, high quality light with replacements available at any auto parts store.

On a related note... how much wattage does your stator produce? Many halogen bulbs are rated at 55/65W. I know on my XR650R it is only rated at 50W output, though many guys have said they run 55W lamps with no problems.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure how much the stator outputs, but according to Baja Designs I don't need to have my stator rewound to use the 8" halogen. Also, the one issue I see with using an automotive light is the vibrations your get from a thumper are MUCH worse than what you get from an automobile. I think the life of an automotive bulb will be cut short by all the vibrations.
 
Jared

Jared

Formerly DeadEye J
Location
Ogden, UT
Vibration is a legit concern for sure. But, I ran an automotive halogen on my TRX250R for years and never changed the bulb once. It's only one example, and everyone's mileage will certainly vary.

Speaking of stators, I found you can get high output stators for relatively cheap. For example I can get a new stator with two 100W AC leads and one 50W DC lead for about $165 shipped for my bike. That's one heckuva lotta power for lights for not too much money. Two big, round 65W SilverStars with two HID helmet lights would sure light up the world!
 
Caleb

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
:cool: Good info. You'll have to let us know how your light project goes. :)

Also, where did you find those stators?
 
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