Easy Out, or nut and weld?

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
This time I took a different route. I filled the open drilled hole with weld, then put the nut over it and filled the nut...

18A29EB0-20A8-4BC6-BF56-E206D948AC76.jpeg
That's actual progress. Rocking it back and forth, it came up about 1/4" before the weld broke off. It's definitely fighting me all the way.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
'Er-go. Nice work. A little clean up with a thread chaser and those should be ready to go. 👍

One thing I like to do on these mating surfaces is smear a very, very thin layer of either anti-seize OR anaerobic compound on the surface before mating them together. This will prevent corrosion and rust jacking which may have been the reason they broke in the first place.

Just a suggestion.

Mike
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
'Er-go. Nice work. A little clean up with a thread chaser and those should be ready to go. 👍

One thing I like to do on these mating surfaces is smear a very, very thin layer of either anti-seize OR anaerobic compound on the surface before mating them together. This will prevent corrosion and rust jacking which may have been the reason they broke in the first place.

Just a suggestion.

Mike
I definitely intend some silver smearage. These were grade 5 bolts, so that probably had a lot to do with the problem.
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Second one worked perfect using that same method. I think drilling the hole, then filling it with weld accomplishes all of the tips suggested in this thread. It heats the entire bolt and area thoroughly, and it gives better fusion from the bolt to the nut using MIG, since you're significantly helping that cold start issue that MIG is known for.

6E696A99-D711-46BB-8926-266C5C460966.jpeg
 

jeeper

I live my life 1 dumpster at a time
Location
So Jo, Ut
Glad it worked out in the end.

FWIW, IMO, that original hole for the easy out was way to small. I always drill as large as possible.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
I'd never ever recommend that antisieze on the mating surfaces. Freaking high steer arms and high steer arm bolts ALWAYS come loose then bend and break. It's the bend that makes them suck to get out IF they're not rusted.

ARP studs and like double the torque spec and double long nuts with the strongest locktite you can find. I've even seen guys weld a shelf to the sides of the knuckles to act like the keyway they use on aftermarket knuckles to keep them from shearing.

I personally have my high steer arm bolted through the stock steering arm tre hole that I drilled out too.
 
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