I'm lookin to get a welder for misc repairs/builds on my rigs. Yoda and I are constantly, CONSTANTLY cursing to the wheeling gods that "If only we had a welder we could do what we wanted to our rigs instead of jimmy-rigging everything (mostly on MY rigs) or finding bolt-on applications for everything. So what's good? Brands, sizes, what to look for, not to look for, different gasses used, cost......anything else that's good to know??
ejucate me about welders
- Thread starter pELYgroso
- Start date
pkrfctr
Registered User
- Location
- Spanish Fork, UT
I've used a premier onboard welder several times and think that is a great set-up. Then you would have it for trail repairs.
anvil
Registered User
- Location
- Idaho Falls
Have you decided if you want a MIG, Stick, or TIG welder? What's your budget? What size material are you welding? Steel only or do you need to weld Al and stainless?
I'm partial to Miller Mig welders. I currently use a Millermatic 251. It is equally at home welding 20 ga. sheet and 3/8 in. plate. I spent a lot of time running a Lincoln PowerMIG 255 it was a good machine too. Both of those are probably overkill for what you are doing, but you haven't given a lot of detail. Cost is around $1500. I'm sure someone else can comment on the capabilities of smaller machines.
If you're considering a stick welder I don't notice much difference between brands, if you go with a big name like Miller, Lincoln, or Hobart. Make sure to get an AC/DC machine not just AC. Look for something with at least 150 amps DC. Cost is around $300-500. If you go stick be prepared to spend a lot of time practicing.
I've never used a flux core welder so I can't really comment.
I'm guessing that TIG isn't what you're looking for right now. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm partial to Miller Mig welders. I currently use a Millermatic 251. It is equally at home welding 20 ga. sheet and 3/8 in. plate. I spent a lot of time running a Lincoln PowerMIG 255 it was a good machine too. Both of those are probably overkill for what you are doing, but you haven't given a lot of detail. Cost is around $1500. I'm sure someone else can comment on the capabilities of smaller machines.
If you're considering a stick welder I don't notice much difference between brands, if you go with a big name like Miller, Lincoln, or Hobart. Make sure to get an AC/DC machine not just AC. Look for something with at least 150 amps DC. Cost is around $300-500. If you go stick be prepared to spend a lot of time practicing.
I've never used a flux core welder so I can't really comment.
I'm guessing that TIG isn't what you're looking for right now. Correct me if I'm wrong.
It has been covered a few times. Here are my quick hints of what to look for, and search for
MillerMatic 175 is a MIG that uses 220 volt, along with gas. It will weld about anything you will ever want on a vehicle from sheet metal to control arms, to frames. I doubt you would ever outgrow that welder.
Shawns MillerMatic 210 is the big brother to that, costs more money (almost double), but is better. The only way you will outgrow that is if you start welding battle ships.
Lincoln makes comparable welders. But my experience is that the Miller customer service is worth paying for, where Lincoln is average. By the way the welders are about the same price
Don't let anyone sell you a 110v MIG. If you do heavy welding you will be upgrading too soon. They work great on sheetmetal, but are not enough for heavy auto welding unless you work real slow.
Don't be shy of an AC/DC stick welder. Not good for the light stuff, but works great on the bumpers, frames, and things of that like. Take a little more practice, but with a few nights of messing around you will get the hang of it.
And last hint is talk to TJJUNKIE (Jake who works for AirGas) before you spend a penny. His price quote was very competitive. Plus the service I have seen at airgas was good.
MillerMatic 175 is a MIG that uses 220 volt, along with gas. It will weld about anything you will ever want on a vehicle from sheet metal to control arms, to frames. I doubt you would ever outgrow that welder.
Shawns MillerMatic 210 is the big brother to that, costs more money (almost double), but is better. The only way you will outgrow that is if you start welding battle ships.
Lincoln makes comparable welders. But my experience is that the Miller customer service is worth paying for, where Lincoln is average. By the way the welders are about the same price
Don't let anyone sell you a 110v MIG. If you do heavy welding you will be upgrading too soon. They work great on sheetmetal, but are not enough for heavy auto welding unless you work real slow.
Don't be shy of an AC/DC stick welder. Not good for the light stuff, but works great on the bumpers, frames, and things of that like. Take a little more practice, but with a few nights of messing around you will get the hang of it.
And last hint is talk to TJJUNKIE (Jake who works for AirGas) before you spend a penny. His price quote was very competitive. Plus the service I have seen at airgas was good.
dep
Registered User
Ill go with rusted on this one, Ive been using the Lincoln 175 for a couple of years and loved it. Everything from full size suspensions to tube work to sheet metal. And you can get a whole set up with bottle and cart and everything you need for around $800, at least you could 2 years ago.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
DO NOT BUY A 110 VOLT WELDER.
You will regret it...
You will regret it...
MIG?.....TIG?.....Stick???? uuuuhhh, I forgot to mention that I don't even know the basics of welding. My buddy has a welder and he hooks the ground wire to the vehicle and pulls a little trigger and some copper(?) wire comes out of the end and it welds. He makes it look really easy.....I just called him and he says its a lincoln and it's a 345(?) volt or somethin?? Ring a bell?? I like the sound of the millermatic 175...do just about anything on an rig. That's mostly what I"ll be using it for. thanks for the suggestions guys!
toys4rocks
I didn't mean to do that!
- Location
- Lehi
Hickey said:DO NOT BUY A 110 VOLT WELDER.
You will regret it...
Why???
Everything I have done to my truck was done with a 110, I have not had a weld crack, break, stretch or fail in any way shape or form.
You seen how I drive, and land when I go over.....
You have to know the limits of the machine and adjust for them, but other then that, it works fine.
Hickey said:DO NOT BUY A 110 VOLT WELDER.
You will regret it...
I don't...when I bought the mm135 it was just what I needed...I bobbed the scout did a SOA and a couple of cages with it. I eventually needed more so I bought the 210...
Still use the 135 for stuff, really nice because it is so portable....
quick run down of the welding terms, Gas Metal Arc Welding (GMAW) also known as Mig is wire fed like you saw your friend doing, it uses gas. Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW) also known as Tig is done with filelr rod and a "torch" (I put it in quote cause its not a flame torch, but rather something that strikes an arc) that holds a piece of Tungsten (you can get different grades of it for different materials) it also uses gas. Lastly, Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW) is also refered to as Arc or stick welding. Depending on if its AC or DC you clamp you ground to a piece of work and put a stick with filler and shielding around teh stick in another slamp type thing and basically create a short circut, and melting the filelr rod. All three of these methods of welding are refered to as short cirgut transfer because they all create a short circut by actually touching the piece. If you really want to learn either take a community college class (fairly cheap and you learn TONS) or go to Lincoln's webste, they have a bunch of educational info there. www.lincolnelectric.com
I don't care what people say, a 110 is too small of a machine for our needs. Sure the capacity is likely there, but for someone just learning I would never suggest a 110. A 220 is so much more forgiving, you can have a decent looking weld but have zero penetration, this is less likely to happen with a 220 machine. Also, a 110 is a TON pickier abotu the power source than the 220s are. Another thing is most 110s have a duty cycle of 20% or less at a very low rating, meaning you WILL hit that duty cycle often, especially if you have the machine maxed outtoys4rocks said:Why???
Everything I have done to my truck was done with a 110, I have not had a weld crack, break, stretch or fail in any way shape or form.
You seen how I drive, and land when I go over.....
You have to know the limits of the machine and adjust for them, but other then that, it works fine.
I don't care who you are, you will outgrow a 110 if its your only machine.
toys4rocks
I didn't mean to do that!
- Location
- Lehi
Eh, 4 years going and going strong. I frame weld, exo, springhangers, drop front hanger. I have used it this way on multiple vehicles and so far, no welding failures.
I agree that a 220 is more forgiving, but I can assure you that starting out with a 110 made me alot better welder.
I also digress, if I was to weld suspension on for some one else I wouldn't use the 110, just because I wouldn't want injury or worse on my conscience, after a weld did fail.
I agree that a 220 is more forgiving, but I can assure you that starting out with a 110 made me alot better welder.
I also digress, if I was to weld suspension on for some one else I wouldn't use the 110, just because I wouldn't want injury or worse on my conscience, after a weld did fail.
another thing I will strongly suggest aht will make you a better welder, LEARN TO STICK (ARC) BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE!!! A monkey can pickup a mig and weld, but I am willing to bet most the people on here have never used arc and couldn't if they had to. If you can get arc welding own then you will learn a ton of the basic welding principles and will be able to pickup a mig and make a nice bead. Also, with little practice you will be able to pickup a tig and start welding. Of the three tig is the hardest cause its a two handed (and sometimes a foot ) operation, coordination is key.
My opinion is get a nice AC/DC stick welder (make sure it has DC and not just AC). Learn that then get a mig (MM210 or above would be my personal choice after owning a MM175 and working with a MM251 for 12-15 hrs a day)
) operation, coordination is key. My opinion is get a nice AC/DC stick welder (make sure it has DC and not just AC). Learn that then get a mig (MM210 or above would be my personal choice after owning a MM175 and working with a MM251 for 12-15 hrs a day
)
toys4rocks
I didn't mean to do that!
- Location
- Lehi
Another quick note, I did feel that the cord was not up to par on my 110, so I did upgrade it. I also use a 3/4' thick 10' extension cord and never go beyond that, distance wise.
I don't want to start a pissing match and am in no way shape or form a proffesional welder. I am just saying I learned on my 110 and it works fine.
I don't want to start a pissing match and am in no way shape or form a proffesional welder. I am just saying I learned on my 110 and it works fine.
toys4rocks
I didn't mean to do that!
- Location
- Lehi
That is also great advice, and I did know how to arc long before I even thought of owning a mig.