Trekking day 9- Gorak Shep to Pangboche (13074)
We woke up at about 6:30 to have breakfast and get headed down. No one except Jami had an appetite so we didn’t eat much. We headed down through Lobuche and then Lobuche pass. The weather was decent and didn’t cause us any problems. Each step brought some relief from the altitude. We ate lunch in Thukla again and met up with some friends we see almost every day. After lunch we departed and headed down. Instead of heading to the side hill part that would eventually take us to Dingboche we followed the giant U shaped valley. It saved us some uphill trekking and that was nice. The whole valley was filled with fields that grow grasses for grazing animals. Nothing was growing since it was winter and no animals were around. Dotting along the way was more stonewalls, cottages, and roofs. We walked all the way to Pangboche, which was 14.1 miles and 9 hours. We descended 4000 vertical feet today and we all felt like a million bucks. Well, all except Jami, this was the hardest trekking day for her. I felt like I had been miraculously healed by a witch doctor or something. The difference in the teahouse was distinct and there was a lot more laughter around the meals we ate. Our personalities had returned. At dinner I tried some juice from a fruit that grows in the Himalaya. It was called seabuckthorn juice. It was so sour, like next level sour. They say it is a super fruit so I thought I would give it a try. I wont be doing that again.
Trekking day 10- Pangboche to Sanasa
We left a little bit later because the day wasn’t quite as long. We had a good breakfast and we were all able to eat. They didn’t start the fire in the morning, but they lit a kerosene heater that put out about the same amount of heat as a single match. The morning was cold, but nothing compared to what we had experienced up higher on the mountain. Today was mostly downhill walking with a few very steep and rocky sections we pulled into Sanasa, which is a new village we didn’t stay at last time. They offered us a deluxe room. It was clean and we were the only people in the teahouse. The room was clean and they took extreme pride in their lodge. I really liked the owners of the lodge and even though the beds were thin I preferred this to the larger lodges. I felt more like we were part of their family. They kept the fire on the entire time we were in the main room eating and hanging out. It felt so good to be warm. The entire village was maybe 10 buildings and along the main trial they had tables set out with souvenirs to buy. Davy and cedar enjoyed shopping and talking to the other kids. Cedar bought a prayer wheel necklace and the lady ran away telling Cedar to stay. She came back with a cord for Cedar to wear it on. Davy bought a key chain for each of his friends. It was a pleasant night and this was the first night I sort of felt the stress of sickness and keeping my family safe start to melt away. I have enjoyed the whole trip even though sometimes I felt really sick. The worry of keeping my family safe while I wasn’t at my best was getting to me. We did eat some grilled cheese sandwiches that were probably the best I have ever had.
Trekking day 11- Sanasa to Phakding
This was an easy day. It was kind of cool to spend the night in the same lodge we started in. We met up with some of our friends that started at the same time we did. It was good to swap stories of our adventures. We also talked with people that were on their way up the mountain. They looked so fresh and unaware of the misery ahead of them. All of them asked advice and how the trip went. Many of them made comments like, if the 9 and 12 year old made it we should be fine. I wanted to explain to them that my kids are exceptionally tough, but instead said I am sure you will be fine. Ganesh would often hop in and tell them how strong the kids were, but they didn’t take much notice. One lady was chowing down on a big steak. She grubbed that steak super hard which is understandable since it looked amazing and you get pretty hungry after a long day of trekking. We decided not to eat any meat on our trip because it has to be carried up the mountain. We did end up eating some tuna fish since it comes in a can. We heard that pour lady all night puking her guts out. I felt so bad for her.
Trekking day 12- Phakding to Lukla
Today was a bittersweet day. Our last day of trekking was exciting, but also kind of sad. We were tired and worn out, but it was nice to only have to worry about walking each day. It was Christmas Eve and the kids were excited about that. We got to Lukla pretty early since we only had to walk a few hours today, like 3 or 4. We got to our lodge directly across from the airport. They had warm showers so we all took one of those and it felt pretty amazing even though it was freezing, the water was warm most of the time. It had been ten days of 8-9 hours of hard hiking each day since our last shower. We all needed one to say the least. The sun was out so we hung out on the porch and watched some workers hand chip stone for a walkway and a wall. I fell asleep lying on the stone porch in the sun and it was so nice.
Depart Lukla
We slept pretty well last night. We stayed up for quite awhile talking to some hikers from Ireland. Again we were on the first flight out in the morning. The weather and air is better early so there is less chance of being delayed if you get out before things start to warm up. We are all pretty excited because today is Christmas Eve.
We arrived back in KTM after a short, non eventful, but beautiful flight. The ride was bumpy, and loud, but that counts as uneventful by Nepali standards. Our hotel had a Christmas tree up and a sign that said merry Christmas. It was really nice of them to do that for us. Another nice touch that our guide made sure happened. We were able to get a little sleep and most importantly a long hot shower. We stopped in a little restaurant and ate a water buffalo steak. If you have never had water buffalo, go chew on a life jacket soaked in beef bullion. The flavor wasn’t bad, but man it was chewy.