Experience/Opinions on Two Piece Drive Shafts?

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
I'm considering getting a couple two piece drive shafts from Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts; I'm looking for advice/opinions/experiences/etc. on the topic to make sure it's the route I want to go before I invest the money.

Currently I have single piece drive shafts front and rear but both experience rubbing on the frame at max articulation or drop as shown in the pictures below (notice that I didn't take the front drive shaft picture until I'd already unbolted it but you can see where it mates up to the flange and you get the point).

1522336413801.png1522336436295.png

My biggest concern with my setup is that my suspension doesn't have a lot of drop and I have a long wheelbase rig at 120" and only 18" belly height (picture below). The thing is incredibly stable and I love that aspect of it, but square shelves are my nemesis and my belly sometimes stops me (typical solution is more right peddle but it's not the most comfortable approach). The buggy is fully covered in skid plates and I drag all the time which is great, that's what I want it to do; but I need more drop in my suspension travel to keep my tires in contact with the rock to keep from high centering as much. My thought is that if I have more drop I can keep my tires in contact with the rock and drag myself over those square shelves.

1522336855444.png

Enter the two piece drive shaft...

Tom Woods Custom Drive Shaft is right down the road from my house and I've heard great things so that's the route I intend to go if I decide to make the change. They offer a two piece shaft as shown below (from their website).

1522337503367.png

The splined shaft that goes through the pillow block towards the transfer case is 1 3/8". They could reuse some of the pieces from my current drive shafts to bring the cost down a little. Joints would all be 1350.

A couple concerns I have:
  • Am I introducing a weak point with the 1 3/8" splined shaft (45" TSL SXIIs, ~400hp)?
  • You can't balance two piece shafts so you can get some vibration issues. For my use I don't see this as a big deal. Fastest I see myself going is 70mph; you may notice it on the pavement but I doubt you would in the desert.
Anyway, I'm open to any suggestions, advice, or opinions so lets hear it! Thanks everyone.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
I have that exact two piece setup in 1350 joints. It's BEEF. It replaced my homebuilt two piece and I no longer worry about it. When you get your hands on that splined section all your worries will go away.

The vibration on mine at ~50mph is non existant. Granted I've only had the rig up to that speed a couple times since. My homebuilt unit shook like a cat lady on bath salts. As long as you keep it in phase when you mount it, I wouldn't worry about it.
 

YROC FAB.

BUGGY TIME
Vendor
Location
Richfield, UT.
Why cant you balance two piece drive lines?
I would also avoided making a two piece unless its absolutely necessary.

If you go the two piece rout, when you have the front made try and use the rear drive line to mock up the front drive line and have them make you a midship to fit it. This way your front and rear drive lines are the same length.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
I'm probably missing something, but why are both sides splined if one side is essentially fixed in place?

drivetrain movement (t-case, transmission, motor vibration, movement). It will save your bearings and as an added benefit you get a little room for adjustment if the measurements weren't exact.
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
shook like a cat lady on bath salts

hahahaha, this killed me. That's awesome that you're running essentially the exact same drive shaft setup that I'm considering; it's reassuring that you're confident in it and your rig is pretty similar. Thanks for the input and the pictures!

IMO, I might notch the frame first. You'll get less angle on your ujoints with a longer driveshaft anyways.

That is one of the compromises for sure. For a while I consider notching the frame for that exact reason (better u-joint angles) but the more I think about it the more I like the idea of keeping my driveshaft tucked away and protected. If I get to the point where I'm maxing out the u-joint angles (which I don't think I will) I guess I could consider Tom Woods Super-Flex U-joints... and that'd really help with my vibration concerns (sarcasm).

Why cant you balance two piece drive lines?
I would also avoided making a two piece unless its absolutely necessary.

If you go the two piece rout, when you have the front made try and use the rear drive line to mock up the front drive line and have them make you a midship to fit it. This way your front and rear drive lines are the same length.

@Herzog is correct, I stated that poorly. From what I understand you can balance a two piece shaft but just not as well as a single shaft. I really like the idea of having a different front and rear midship shaft and the same front and rear drive shaft; I'll need to take some measurements and see if I can pull that off.

Thanks everyone for the feedback, I appreciate it. Still trying to make up my mind but I think I'm leaning the two piece route.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
hahahaha, this killed me. That's awesome that you're running essentially the exact same drive shaft setup that I'm considering; it's reassuring that you're confident in it and your rig is pretty similar. Thanks for the input and the pictures!

ha you're welcome! Your rig has signifigantly more HP than mine, but I still think you will be good to go.
 
Last edited:

YROC FAB.

BUGGY TIME
Vendor
Location
Richfield, UT.
I dont know if your cable of fabricating your own midship but if you are this is how i make mine.


Did you look at page 14 in my thread then? Was it helpful? The OD on my carrier bearing housings are 4".

I would get your rear drive line set in stone so you can use it to mock and figure the front.

This is the pillow block i rob the self aligning bearing out of.http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200407612_200407612. I have ran the same one on my other buggy for 4 years now and maybe greased it twice.

14b yoke and pinion with gear cut off. the pinion end it turnded down to 1.5" to fit in 2" .250 wall dom. The yoke seal surface is turn down to fit into the 2" bearing.stolen self aligning bearing.
View attachment 104361

New carrier bearing housing turned out of 4" .5wall dom. The cast factory pillow block housing only last 7 months.(ask me how i know)
View attachment 104362

Assembled end
View attachment 104363

Bearing retention
View attachment 104364

I weld the 2" tube some 3/8 plate then trued it up in the lathe. The yokes are parted off in the lathe leaving a true cut and then the tube with the plate welded to it is centered in the yoke with a calibrated eye ball and burned in.
View attachment 104365
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
I run a 2 piece 1350 shaft on the front of my wreck. Had to so the shaft could go around the trans bellhousing and have uptravel. Plus, the shaft would have been 49" as a one piece. Way too long for the diameter that it could have been if it was one piece. I had Eric at Axis Driveline in Woodscross build it. Zero issues with it and I've had it up past 90.
 
Top