F&R gear ratio split?

SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
Here's the deal:
My friend (4chin on RME) is trying to lock the rear of his '95 4Runner as inexpensively as possible. We are hoping to get him locked for the U4WDA event in January. If you've seen him drive you understand:eek:

As far as lockers go the lock-right is the best option for him.

I have several 4cyl thirds that I'm willing to weld up for a spool but the the only ratios we have are 4.10's and his 4Runner came equipped with 4.56's. Re-gearing the front is not an option, so my question is this; what kind of havoc will be caused to the t-case if we run the 4.56's up front and the welded 4.10's in the rear?

It will be for trail use only as he plans on driving the rig to St. George and we'll swap it out in the parking lot. I'm not concerned about the sand/dirt/gravel, my worry is the slickrock and high traction surfaces.

I think I've read that a 3% split is acceptable, can anyone verify this?

Of course this could ALL be remedied by
A: buying the lock-right
-OR-
B: finding a stock 3rd-4cyl or V6 with 4.56's to weld up.

Financially finding a 3rd with 4.56's would be best--Anyone??:D


Is my math correct?
4.10/4.56=.899 or less than 1%
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Don't run the two ratios together. Either lock the 4.56 one, or weld a 4.10 and put the 4.56 gears in it.
 

ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
I had a friend try near this same thing. Initially he had 4.10s. He blew up the rear and had another axle laying around but it had 3.73s. Figured it was close so he threw it in.


Ive got to say......dang funny trying to watch him drive in 4x4. Looked like he was riding a bull!

Needless to say. It doesnt work. Even in low traction
 

SAMI

Formerly Beardy McGee
Location
SLC, UT
I vote weld the 4.56 rear. Why not? If you can't find a spare 4.56 before the U4 run, weld up the existing one and find a replacement if needs be after the run. I ran a spool for years.. I know several others who run them without trouble.

Is he against welding the 4.56 to drive on the street? If so, why?

-Jason
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
I vote weld the 4.56 rear. Why not? If you can't find a spare 4.56 before the U4 run, weld up the existing one and find a replacement if needs be after the run. I ran a spool for years.. I know several others who run them without trouble.

Is he against welding the 4.56 to drive on the street? If so, why?

-Jason

With 4.56's, I'm betting he has a V6--meaning it's really tough/impossible to weld that carrier, compared to a 4cyl carrier.
 

SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
Your math is wrong. That is more like a 10% difference.

I knew I was wrong somewhere, thanks!

I vote weld the 4.56 rear. Why not? If you can't find a spare 4.56 before the U4 run, weld up the existing one and find a replacement if needs be after the run. I ran a spool for years.. I know several others who run them without trouble.

Is he against welding the 4.56 to drive on the street? If so, why?

-Jason

Ideally I need to start a wanted thread for a 4cyl carrier with 4.56's

The V6 is difficult to weld and before he really got into using the 4Runner on the trails he had Six States re-build the 3rd for 350.00...that pretty much smoked the locker $$$ and he has a hard time messing with it now that it has cash into it.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Can't think right now (busy at work), but I have installed several 4cyl. carriers into V6 housings. My brother has a 4cyl. Detroit in a 5.29 V6 carrier. Just find a 4cyl. carrier, weld it and trow it in with the 4.56's :D

You'll need different carrier bearings, but I'm pretty sure they are readily avaliable.

Don't run those two gears together! Ive seen 2 snapped pinions, blown hubs (both at the same time), and a blown u-joint in different vehicles caused by that big of a gap :eek::ugh:

Too bad you guy's are so far away I'd weld it and set the backlash for free... I've got a lot of practice lately :rolleyes: :D
 
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Jedisdead

Jed
Location
Wyoming
well while were on the welded toy thirds i have a extra one and was thinking about welding it and putting it in my daily driver how bad it make the road manners and does it kill the tires faster
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
how bad it make the road manners and does it kill the tires faster

Road manners are worse expecially on ice :sick:

Tires wear a lot faster :-\

To some people it's worth it (was for me for awhile). Now I feel that a $200 Aussie is cheaper in the long run :D
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Just to add visuals to the V6/4cyl tangent here:

4Cyl diff, nice open carrier, prime for welding:
4cyl_diff.jpg


V6/Turbo diff, stronger bolt-together carrier, not very weldable:
v6_diff.jpg
 

4Chin

Member
Man. All this talk of welding is making my diff hurt. Fortunately its a moot point. I finally ponied up for the Lock-right. I should have it installed in the next week or so. Just in time to drive my very first locker right in the dead of winter. I sure love the snow. . .
 

_Auzzy_

Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
Location
Richfield Utah
welding gears in my mind is by far the most non-reliable thing to do, my bud is always welding his up and they just just keep shattering the cage. I definently reccomend a lock-rite. i love mine and the ability to un-load under huge pressure saves you not only parts but quite a bit money too.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Does anyone seriously ever break toy 4cyl carriers?

I've seen a couple broken, but they've always been WELL abused for a long time first. Generally speaking, the only failure that's at all common is spun carrier bearing journals, and they can run for a long time even after the spinning begins.
 
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