Fab shops for 3-link w/panhard

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Pike2350

Registered User
Location
Salt Lake City
I'm curious who is around that does this kind of thing. It seems that there are fewer and fewer fab shops around for the custom work. I currently have a 4 link front(triangulated) w/o a panhard....while it works fine for the most part, I do want this to be very streetable. Everything I read points to a 3 link w/panhard....so I thought I'd see who around could look at it and give me a quote so I know what i"m in for.
 
I'd start with talking to UFAB in Utah County and Sexton Offroad in Kamas... both those guys know their stuff and would take good care of you.
 
Pike2350 said:
I'm curious who is around that does this kind of thing. It seems that there are fewer and fewer fab shops around for the custom work. I currently have a 4 link front(triangulated) w/o a panhard....while it works fine for the most part, I do want this to be very streetable. Everything I read points to a 3 link w/panhard....so I thought I'd see who around could look at it and give me a quote so I know what i"m in for.
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Any pictures? I'm curious how you have it set up and how well it drives?
 
black_ZJ said:
Any pictures? I'm curious how you have it set up and how well it drives?
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zukijames said:
do you have full hydro steering?
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Not full hydro...which is why I read most things pointing to a 3 link w/ panhard. I guess the big thing is bumpsteer, and while I don't have a major problem with it now, I want to be able to drive this to Moab and for DD duties if necessary. There are other things that I don't like about it that I want to redo anyway (I have a thread about the redo..but it's slow moving) http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?92783-SAS-Isuzu-Rodeo-redo The main thing I don't like is the fact they only used 3/4" heims on the links (except the front uppers which is weird) I'd like to get them to the 1-1/4" ends so I have a better variety (JJ, clevite bushings, etc) So far i've been fine with it on the street pulling dd duties for the past 3 months...but I worry about the longevity of the heims. I just replaced all of the front (minus the upper frame because they are the Teraflex rubber clevite style) and it made a huge difference....but I'm just kind of paranoid that without the help of a trackbar they are going to be worn out in a matter of weeks.

One other thing that's different....those online that are running triangulated fronts seem to all have the uppers triangulated (like the Tera TJ LCG kit)....mine has the lowers triangulated

Sounds like Mitch comes highly recommended....I was in contact with him a few weeks ago about making a new draglink/trackbar to eliminate the heims and he was very reasonable. I'll have to see about getting down to see him and at least let him look it over and give me a quote on what he thinks it would take to do.

Here are some pics of the front, sorry, they aren't the best

2012-09-29%252010.24.59.jpg


2011-09-15%252015.09.32.jpg


2012-09-29%252010.24.10.jpg


you can kind of see it here
2011-09-15%252018.36.14.jpg


and the front 4-link calculator

front%25204%2520link.jpg
 
bamacpl said:
More seperation between the UCA & LCA heims would help tremendously!!
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Frame or axle side?

Frame side is next to impossible...without making the lowers like anchors. The uppers are directly under the frame and the lowers are on a trans/tcase skit plate.

I'm still learning about linking things...I get the rear, it's a lot more straightforward. Since this was already done I've tried to just accept it and drive it...but part of me is apprehensive of it. It doesn't perform badly (minus deathwobble here and there...but with worn out heims on the steering and balljoints that are loose I can't blame that on the geometry yet) I just haven't found out if it's bad to run this way...I know it's not ideal, but other then bumpsteer is there any other downfalls? My other concern is that wheeling Sunday, someone noticed my sector shaft and think the splines might be getting twisted....I am not sure if they are or not because I haven't pulled off my pitman arm to check.

I will most likely change to a 3 link in the future as fund allow. I can see why buying an already SAS'd truck can be a huge PIA. I have to do quite a few things on it....granted I got it for a steal so I can't complain too badly...I just wish I had more free money to just get it done right.
 
You need to get the upper frame side mounts mounted inside the frame, not under the frame. That would allow you to move them up. Now it's just a matter of making those mounts clear exhaust and whatnot.
 
3 link pan hard is primarily for the use of a steering box with drag link. Axle movement is very noticeable with a short and moderate sized pan hard bar. 4 link still has it's roll axis problems. Separation at the triangualtion points make for some variations in numbers, also the vertical separation numbers change anti squat for sure.

When calculating a radius arm, things get confusing, but some how still works fine.

Spending the time to design suspension dynamics can be time consuming, especially for free and teaching people how to use the highly trusted 4 and 3 link calculators can be questionable.

We can help your needs out. If you need the excel worksheets we can email for free.

MItch
 
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