ff14 disk conversion ?

[4x4phil]

I'm thinking real hard about doing rear disk on my ff 14. In the past when I've helped do a rear disk they've been really weak because the master cylinder doesn't push enough fluid to the rear to really make them work well. Also if I ever get stuck on an obstacle I like to use my e brake to increase stopping power to the rear so my fronts don't lock up and I can steer. How could I have an e-brake type mechanism when it isn't built for one? And will I have to find a way to increase flow to the rear, and how do I do that if needed? I have a 79 chev k20. Any input would be helpful. Help a craka out.

 

[Jared]

Good plan Phil, then your 4,000 lb rig will only weigh 3,975 lbs. That about 5 bucks per pound isn't it?

Jared

 

[ALF]

if you are asking how to do a disc brake conversion and keep an erake all you have to do is use 75-77 or 78 someone correct me cadillac calipers.

 

[tiny2085]

if you are asking how to do a disc brake conversion and keep an erake all you have to do is use 75-77 or 78 someone correct me cadillac calipers.

yup, ElDorado rear calipers. Or you could use an electric line lock. But they are not made to hold a rig for long periods of time, like several hours at a time. you could use a mechanical line lock too. Like a ball valve.

And the reason it doesn't push enough fluid is the proprtioning valve.

 

[Jeeplvr]

I used this guys kit.
Nice stuff and a detailed instructions and parts list on his web site.

http://www.shakerbuilt.com/Products.html

 

[PierCed_3]

you'll probably need 17" rims.... oh yeah... go for the bling bro! Blingin beadlocks! :greg:

 

[Shawn]

That about 5 bucks per pound isn't it?

Jared

Try 75lbs.

When I did mine I swaped out the Cruiser master and Vac assist for a 3/4 tom chevy. There is no problems locking up the front and rear. I have wheel for years with out an E brake, don't need one, why would I want one.

 

[Brad J]

Right now I regret Disk braking the D60 on my Scout because the e-brake doesn't hold and its nearly imposible to take up the tension on the e-brake cable. I used an IH D60 so the bracket I ordered from Great Lakes Offroad ($75) needed to be reworked to fit. I used 78 Caddy Calipers ordered from TSM ($300) I had a new e-brake cable made at Six States for $65. Driving the thing is down right dangerous right now w/ the orig drum/drum master cylinder. Last night I yanked out the master cylinder, cut out the entire inner wheel well to make a new one that will work w/ the 68 Corvette 1 1/8 bore manual disk/disk MC I got for $35. If I ever do this again I would get an axle from the junk yard off of a new truck w/ disk's on from the factory (w/ an e-brake that actually works). There was an untouched, wrecked new Super Duty at the Tear A Part junk yard a couple months ago that made me wish I had gone that route. Maybe when the new MC is in I can get the bugs worked out but I sure do miss the e-brake that orig came on it's D44 that held perfectly everytime and never left me w/ a concern.

Good Luck, Brad J.

 

[4x4phil]

So the eldorado brake thing sounds really cool. That's just what I'm looking for. Do I need different disks and caliper brackets or can I just use the ones you see sold everywhere for the conversion? My current e-brake doesn't work. I just figured it's so cheap to convert them that I may as well do it right. I hate changing drum brakes anyway. I already have a new master cylinder. When I changed it they told me the part numbers were the same for the 3/4 ton and 1/2 ton. With the acception of the hydro boost, so hopefully mine will work. Will I have to have somebody fab up some e-brake lines? Where's a good place to have it done. I'm assuming this isn't something I can do myself. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[ALF]

heres a good write up

http://coloradok5.com/atrondiskbrakes.shtml

and cadi calipers are a direct bolt on

 

[4x4phil]

Thanks for the links, those will definately help. And Drew, you've seen my truck, the only thing that blings on that are my valve covers. And soon a timing chain cover that i have to change this weekend. But the chrome timing chain cover should give me like ten horse power. But I'm afraid I'm just gonna have to stick with steel rims and primer paint. It's not like your prettyboy jeep that you park in the middle of a gas station with the parking lights on so that everybody can see how cool it is. Sorry bro, low blow.

 

[PierCed_3]

It's not like your prettyboy jeep that you park in the middle of a gas station with the parking lights on so that everybody can see how cool it is. Sorry bro, low blow.

So what if it's cool..

 

[Tacoma]

Brad, you are having way more problems than anyone I have ever heard of! I don't see where you are using a new proportioning valve, which might be part of the trouble... anyway, looks like you're heading down the right road. Those Corvette masters are great.

Phil, I'm ordering parts for this very swap this week, if you want to come out and check it out. I haven't done one yet, could be interesting.

 

[Max Power]

My brother did the conversion on his 14 bolt with the cadillac calipers and he was till able to use 15 inch steel wheels.

 

[ALF]

15's should work if they are backspaced properly

 

[Brad J]

Brad, you are having way more problems than anyone I have ever heard of! I don't see where you are using a new proportioning valve, which might be part of the trouble... anyway, looks like you're heading down the right road. Those Corvette masters are great.

Maybe that's my problem, I used the original proportioning valve. I've heard to ditch it and run the Wilwood Proportioning valve to the rear to let the front brakes do most of the work. Do you think I would be ok w/ the stock proportioning valve but w/ the new vette MC? I've been worikng on it slowly but hope to have it back on the road in a couple weeks. Good to hear from you again.

Thanks, Brad J.

 

[Tacoma]

no, the stock proportioning valve will lock up the rear every time... you're gonna have to ditch it. It's a little bit of plumbing and some coin, but the adjustable deal is the way to go.
The front's do most of the work in braking, and the stock prop. valve just allows too much pressure to the rears. The adjustable deal lets you dial that out until the brakes don't lock like that.

btw Tooele has among its features an abandoned airstrip, AND a big, empty industrial depot. Perfect for testing brakes... if you can get here in one piece MOOOAHAHAHAHAHAH

 

[4x4phil]

let me know when you're doing it and if I can get off work I'd definately like to come check it out. I'll even give you a hand if you're not weird about other people working on your stuff. I won't be offended if you double check my work, i do it to others all the time.

 

[Tacoma]

I've got to decide on some brackets, then it's just a trip to the parts place for some calipers. I am doing 2 axles, plus new front stuff for a 3/4t 44, so that's 6 of everything. Waiting on checks, too LOL.

I'll let you know. PM me your number again, I dumped all my PM's.