• RME Gear & Apparel

Ford Courier build

4

4x4_Welder

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls, ID
Well, my parts collection is almost complete, so it's time to start building, but first a little backstory:
Back in 2001, I had an 87 Isuzu Trooper TD. I loved that little thing, it was pretty decent off road for a basically stock vehicle, and when driven right turned some incredibly impressive mileage. Unfortunately, this was in Connecticut and like everything there it had rust issues and had to be scrapped when the frame broke just in front of the rear springs. Since then, I have been looking for another compact diesel truck or SUV. I tried to buy a Cross Lander, but that never happened, so I put the idea on the back burner.
In 2008, I picked up an 81 Ford Courier longbed for commuting and Craigslist runs. It has had a progressively worsening oil burning problem, numerous carburetor problems, and now the front end is about shot.
IMG_0543.jpg

IMG_0544.jpg

All in all, it's spent more time sitting than actually driving.
I did a bit of horse trading and wound up with an 82 Mercedes 300SD.
IMG_0393.jpg

The body was straight, but nothing in the car worked. Power windows, power seats, a/c, sunroof- All shot. The paint was trashed too from sitting in the sun outside for years. On the upside, it had a 3.0l 5cylinder turbodiesel that ran great with about 270k on it.
IMG_0490.jpg

This fairly compact engine is good for 125hp and 170ft/lbs in stock trim, and likes higher rpms, redline is 4300rpm with some engines having been turned up to 400+hp and 5500rpm.
I am using a Ford/Mazda M5R2 transmission, and a cut down Wagoneer D44 front axle. The front end is getting a Ford-style 3link with coils, while the rear for now is just getting a spring-over with the stock axle. I am building a D44 to go into the rear, and the truck will ride on 31s for a start. Later I may gear it down more and go with 33s.
It does look like I will have to cut out the firewall on the Courier and relocate the heater, but worth it to have a diesel.
 
Last edited:
Yota

Yota

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Why are you going to link it?
How common is that motor when you need parts for it?
An engine swap and deciding to link a vehicle is a lot of work for something sitting in a field but I sure do love couriers and would love to see something get done to this one.
I want to see my neighbor do something with his too... It just sits... year after year. I keep telling him he needs to find himself a yota frame and chassis to put that body on :greg:
 
4

4x4_Welder

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls, ID
I'm just doing a Ford style three link front end. It's actually about the same amount of work as doing leaves once you get down to actually doing the mounts, plus I have a few different spring rates here to choose from. I may just cut down the stock Mercedes springs, since they are quite tall, but they are also a bit stiff.
The engine is actually quite common and popular for swaps, and parts are easily had. I am going to do a few of my own touches, like relocate the oil filter and use dual FL1A spin-ons instead of the $25 Mercedes cartridge filter. Air filter will be a Donaldson paper filter with a snorkel, instead of the overpriced Mercedes round one.
The basic engine is extremely reliable, the problems are mostly to do with the wrapper it comes in. The downside is that Mercedes-specific parts are expensive, add a three pointed star to anything and the price triples. The up side is that these engines are so common that if I have a critical problem, I can get another one for under $1k. Most of the time it'll come still in the car, so I can part that out too and make a few $$ on the deal.
There is a 4Runner on 4btswaps.com running this engine and 38s, getting 17mpg on the road so it is a viable swap candidate.
 
4

4x4_Welder

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls, ID
I had seen that, but honestly even if I had the money I wouldn't be able to swallow almost $1k for that, plus the cost of an NV4500 to run behind it. For right now, I don't have money or time, every time I have money it's for bills and every time I have time I'm stuck with the kids. That's life, though.
I want to get to the point where i can build these adapters and sell them to give people a non-GM transmission option.
 
4

4x4_Welder

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls, ID
Toyotas are easy- 5/16" plate, just need to get the Toyota flywheel redrilled to mount to the Mercedes crank. This engine is about the same length as the 22r once it's all said and done. I was going to go with the Toyota transmission, but there is a question as to whether the 4cyl transmission can actually handle this engine. Plus, the flywheel is pretty light, and I like having a ton of low-rpm torque available.
I lined up my transmission today and marked out all the holes, Monday I should do some drilling and maybe even have a real test fit.
 
4

4x4_Welder

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls, ID
Is it just me, or does that look like an M5R2 bolted to an OM617?
IMG_0744.jpg


Now to find a shop that will redrill the flywheel without charging me way too much for it.
I do still need to cut away the area that the starter mounts to, and carve off some of the oil pan of the engine to clear the starter, but it's coming along.
 
spencevans

spencevans

Overlander
Location
Farmington
4x4_Welder said:
Now to find a shop that will redrill the flywheel without charging me way too much for it.
I do still need to cut away the area that the starter mounts to, and carve off some of the oil pan of the engine to clear the starter, but it's coming along.
Click to expand...


I too have been having flywheel issues with my Mitsu Diesel buildup. I have considered having my flywheel redrilled but the machine shops I have talked to won't touch it. :(

I need to maintain the correct flywheel so my OEM starter can be used because diesel starters are much larger than gasoline starters. Do you plan to use the OEM Mercedes starter?

After 2 weeks of online searching I was able to find the correct flywheel in Bristish Columbia. Appearantly it's a rare flywheel. I went ahead and orderd it but it came at a price. I hope it's in good condition and it's not missing any teeth.


I think this little build is cool. I like seeing things that are different, but well thought out and well executed. Especially if it's a diesel.
 
4

4x4_Welder

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls, ID
Everything from the flywheel back is Ford, so I'm going to use Summit's copy of the Mean Green starter. I was assured by the Mean Green guys that their starter will whip this thing around just fine, so I may even try it with a regular old style Ford starter first. The actual Mercedes starter is not a gear reduction, and in fact the motor section looks just like the Ford one. In using a larger flywheel it will have more leverage so the Ford one may work as-is.
As a sort of progress report, I did cut, notch, and tack up my radius arms today too. The rear end has a standard Ford poly bushing, while the front has heim joints. One at the top, and two back to back at the bottom so I can play with caster. The axle will have a pair of plates welded to it to sandwich these joints. I'm hoping this setup will give a bit more flexibility over the Ford bushing setup, while allowing a bit more accurate axle control. The locating link will be done with heim joints at both ends as well.
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Solid rod ends (your heim joints) at the axle will allow exactly zero articulation with radius arms. (assuming you have two connection points at both radius arms)
 
4

4x4_Welder

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls, ID
Would I be better off to wrist one end, or do something different? I potentially have the option of using the radius arms and axle end mounts off my 72 F100, but I'm trying to avoid the wheelhop issues some people seem to have with a three link.
I know Super Dutys aren't known for articulation, but I can't imagine this system allowing the axle to twist a whole lot:
0904or_04_z+pro_comp_8_inch_triple_xxx_ford_super_duty+radius_arm_design.jpg
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
4x4_Welder said:
Would I be better off to wrist one end, or do something different? I potentially have the option of using the radius arms and axle end mounts off my 72 F100, but I'm trying to avoid the wheelhop issues some people seem to have with a three link.
I know Super Dutys aren't known for articulation, but I can't imagine this system allowing the axle to twist a whole lot:
Click to expand...

In that picture, just for example, there are rubber bushings at each point the radius arm attaches to the axle, which is what allows any amount of articulation.

Longer radius arms need less bushing deflection to acheive the same amount of articulation than short ones do, and a wristed setup doesn't require any bushing deflection. In fact, you could do a "wristed" setup with what you have going now with heims, just by deleting one heim on one of the radius arms. You will get some uneven handling that way, though.

Another option is to triangulate the radius arms toward the center of the vehicle, if there's room. If they go all the way to the middle and converge at one single point, then you've built the "one link" style suspension and can have solid mounts at the axle.

Look at Rockmonkey's XJ front suspension, he used triangulated radius arms.
 
4

4x4_Welder

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls, ID
Well, after thinking about it overnight, I'm going to forge ahead with the radius arms as-is. On one side I'll use hitch pins to secure the lower heim joints, so I can just drop out the whole assembly with the adjuster and wheel. Put it back in for highway use.
I tacked the tubes together and welded in the center panel today. I don't see cutting holes in it as dropping enough weight to be worthwhile, so they're staying solid.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top