Ford with a passenger side output?
- Thread starter Ranger84
- Start date
BlackDog
one small mod at a time
- Location
- Proudly Deported to ID
Or above but...
Ford Motor, my your 351, then the ford c6/t-18 you are going to use, its 203/308/1345/1356 ad nauseam.. then your Dodge divorced 205, and Bammm! pss out put AND doubled....
Ford Motor, my your 351, then the ford c6/t-18 you are going to use, its 203/308/1345/1356 ad nauseam.. then your Dodge divorced 205, and Bammm! pss out put AND doubled....
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
Any reason you can't redrill the Ford adapter and just use a GM case? I have no idea what the Ford patterns are. 
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
Engine adapter and use a GM trans/t-case.
Or if you want some weight you could take a Ford 205 and a GM 205 and make what you need.
Or if you want some weight you could take a Ford 205 and a GM 205 and make what you need.
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
Redrill a GM case to fit the Ford adapter then. You might have to have the case bored to fit the Ford gear, or you could use a 32spl GM case to begin with. Ford uses that weird 31spl input. Different for difference's sake I guess.
Different for difference's sake I guess.
Do a Ford 203 range box get a 203/205 kit to gm 205.
so ford tranny, ford np203/gm 205.
Most of the 203/205 kit manurfactures will allow you to do that.
Then you could also get the low-max gm 205 with the 3:1 set so you would have 1:1 2:1, 3:1, or 6:1 in the case(s) (damn you lomax not making a ford kit...)
you should be able to get a gm 205 from a yard for a few hundred, finding a ford 203 is a bit harder but still only a few hundred bucks. doubler kits are not cheap.
I tell everyone that the 203/205 is the best thing I have done to my rig. It cost me less than $800.00 to upgrade my t-case to gear driven cast iron case with 2:1 and 4:1... thats about 1/4 the cost of an atlas and should be close in strength (I would say stronger some will say weaker... you still will be hard pressed to break it) only draw back is length and weight (200 lbs) but if you want light you can't really do it cheap...
I do think that selling the gm d-60 and buying a ford d-60 isn't that bad of an idea but if you do that I would still say build up a 203/205 doubler. nice thing about the ford stuff is it already has pretty good size yokes and input shafts. I under stand that the gm d-60 is stronger etc but the ford is high pinion so yeah advantages to both...
Nathan
87 Bronco, EFI 460, d-60, gm 14 bolt, np 203/205, 37 inch mtr's (will be canablized to build an xj at the end of 2010)
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/194
so ford tranny, ford np203/gm 205.
Most of the 203/205 kit manurfactures will allow you to do that.
Then you could also get the low-max gm 205 with the 3:1 set so you would have 1:1 2:1, 3:1, or 6:1 in the case(s) (damn you lomax not making a ford kit...)
you should be able to get a gm 205 from a yard for a few hundred, finding a ford 203 is a bit harder but still only a few hundred bucks. doubler kits are not cheap.
I tell everyone that the 203/205 is the best thing I have done to my rig. It cost me less than $800.00 to upgrade my t-case to gear driven cast iron case with 2:1 and 4:1... thats about 1/4 the cost of an atlas and should be close in strength (I would say stronger some will say weaker... you still will be hard pressed to break it) only draw back is length and weight (200 lbs) but if you want light you can't really do it cheap...
I do think that selling the gm d-60 and buying a ford d-60 isn't that bad of an idea but if you do that I would still say build up a 203/205 doubler. nice thing about the ford stuff is it already has pretty good size yokes and input shafts. I under stand that the gm d-60 is stronger etc but the ford is high pinion so yeah advantages to both...
Nathan
87 Bronco, EFI 460, d-60, gm 14 bolt, np 203/205, 37 inch mtr's (will be canablized to build an xj at the end of 2010)
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/194
Rot box has the cheap good answer.
get a ford 205 and a gm 205 swap the input from the ford into the gm, drill and tap the gm for the ford bolt patern.
I would only say 205 since I wouldn't want to tap an Al case...
I should have thought of this since I am going to put my 203/205 in a jeep by getting a dodge 203 input and re-drilling my 203...
(what no head slap smilie)
Nathan
get a ford 205 and a gm 205 swap the input from the ford into the gm, drill and tap the gm for the ford bolt patern.
I would only say 205 since I wouldn't want to tap an Al case...
I should have thought of this since I am going to put my 203/205 in a jeep by getting a dodge 203 input and re-drilling my 203...
(what no head slap smilie)
Nathan
whoops didn't see that...
get a np203 to d-300 adaptor.
then any ford maried tranny would work...
(last post I promise)
Nathan
4x4_Welder
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Twin Falls, ID
I just fought this in my Courier conversion, and went with a different front axle. Of course, I'm running a D44 front, and Jeep made them both ways so it was a pretty cheap change. Luckily I hadn't narrowed my other one yet and I was able to get rid of it.
schaeferNsons
Dirt Hedz Offroad Club
- Location
- Pleasant Grove UT.
get smart and run all gm but that is just my 2 cents
4x4_Welder
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Twin Falls, ID
That's one way, but i didn't feel like spending over $1k so I could have a weak T5 behind my diesel. Instead, I spent about $400, and have an M5R2 that can actually handle a V8 in a full size truck, so it should be more than capable at handling a 3l turbodiesel in a compact truck.
Silly Willy
Well-Known Member
- Location
- American Fork Ut
Whats the 3l out of? and where is your build thread?