Full-Width DD XJ--Bad Idea?
- Thread starter parks_pop
- Start date
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
Yikes! It's as much as a two-post vehicle lift!
http://www.google.com/products?hl=e...a=X&oi=product_result_group&resnum=4&ct=title
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Master-Series-XL-9BP-Base-Plate-Two-Post-Lift-p/tp-xl-9bp.htm
Oh well...
http://www.google.com/products?hl=e...a=X&oi=product_result_group&resnum=4&ct=title
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Master-Series-XL-9BP-Base-Plate-Two-Post-Lift-p/tp-xl-9bp.htm
Oh well...
STAG
On my grind
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Yikes! It's as much as a two-post vehicle lift!
http://www.google.com/products?hl=e...a=X&oi=product_result_group&resnum=4&ct=title
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Master-Series-XL-9BP-Base-Plate-Two-Post-Lift-p/tp-xl-9bp.htm
Oh well...
wow those blue ones are expensive.. Iirc we got that orange one for like ~$300. If you're interested in it I could talk to my buddy who owns it he'd prob sell it to ya. Located in Orem.
STAG
On my grind
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
I wonder what the differences are in stats on the GC versus a C...
the gc has 5" more WB and weighs about 700 lbs more. The body is also about 4" wider too.
The XJ tends to be more stable at higher lifts due to it's narrower body and leaf springs.
The front and rear coils of a ZJ/WJ create a very top heavy and "leany" monster. It just doesn't work well with lifts over 6"....kind of slinky. The big problem is that people try to create these flexy ramp queens because it's easy to get long arms and coils to flex, but don't realize that they are sacrificing real world performance in the process. There have been at least a half dozen guys I've talked into going from 8" to 6" and every one of them was much happier at 6".
The XJ tends to be more stable at higher lifts due to it's narrower body and leaf springs.
The front and rear coils of a ZJ/WJ create a very top heavy and "leany" monster. It just doesn't work well with lifts over 6"....kind of slinky. The big problem is that people try to create these flexy ramp queens because it's easy to get long arms and coils to flex, but don't realize that they are sacrificing real world performance in the process. There have been at least a half dozen guys I've talked into going from 8" to 6" and every one of them was much happier at 6".
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you can do it. get some different wheels, and some big flares. H2 wheels have a good back spacing too, it helps bring the tires in more. My dad is currently running 14 bolt rear, 60 front on his CJ 7, he is going to be using H2 wheels, to help keep the tires in more
STAG
On my grind
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
yeah I don't blame you/them... I guess its all personaly preference but I seem to tend to like the taller lifts. they seem to work better for me. Also I did away with the rear leaf springs on my XJ and I'd do it again if I wanted to build another unibody. w/ leaf springs it makes it difficult to open/close doors at full flex. w/ the rear coils they all opened and closed as smooth as butta no matter how flexed out I was. it also helped with the flex and the wheelbase stretch. but I wonder how about the frame height-ground differences are on them stock...
STAG
On my grind
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
However H2 rims tend to leave the end of the locking hub sticking out facing it to damage easier...
I believe Mcgee Company in SLC can order them for you. but keep in mind, they are pricey!
Croc, what Fakler one you get that from? What store location? I know it wasnt the AF store:greg:
Not sure. I can get a ZJ measurement if you can get an XJ measurement. I've parked next to XJ's with 8" of lift and they seem pretty level to my ZJ. They may very well start off lower.
I can say that I've never found a ZJ or WJ person that can say their rig worked better at any lift over 6" vs. 6". Never. 6" just tends to be the magic number for grands.
STAG
On my grind
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
iirc it was the orem location.. it was a few years ago..
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
I wouldn't lift an XJ over 6" and would prefer to be lower if I were to ever build one again. I'd keep the leaf springs in the rear as well.
parks_pop
Active Member
- Location
- Stansbury Park
I don't plan on more lift. I'm running 6" now with long arms in the front and it works great.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
I might consider an off-road sway bar or something with your setup?
I've had my Chev D60 {69" wms-wms seems to be the accepted width?} with the following track widths:
H1 wheels and 38 x 12.50 SX--76.5-77" sidewall/sidewall
H2 wheels and 37 x 13.50 Toyo MT--82.5" sidewall/sidewall (it'd BARELY fit on my trailer that's 83" from fender/fender)
Dodge Ram wheels and 37 x 12.50 Creepy Crawlers--78-79" (never measured, but I'm sure it was around there considering how often I hit my drive slugs compared to the H1 setup)
Hutchinson beadlocks and 37 x 12.50 Creepy Crawlers-- 81"
I believe the "full width" D44 and 10 bolt fronts are not quite as wide (67") as the Chev 60, so you could make things fit under the XJ with some huge flares (assuming you want to be street legal in UT).
So, you can keep the tires under the rig more than you'd expect with offset wheels. If I was trying to do what it seems like you're trying to do, I'd research the hell out of a non-disco Dodge front 60 or other unit bearing axle and hang it from something with a frame (or check out RockMonkey's XJ build thread). I believe that would be a good solution in a lot of ways.
If I ever built another XJ, I'd stick to the non-disco D30 and 8.25 and keep the tire size under 33". Personally, I'd have a hard time "upgrading" to a D44 front as the axle joint is what I broke on my D30 and it's the same part on the D44. IF I did, I'd look at the Waggy front/rear matched set and stick to 35-36" tires with 6" or less lift.
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parks_pop
Active Member
- Location
- Stansbury Park
One thing that is making me wonder if this is something I should do is the fact that my XJ already has a dana 44 rear that is set up with 4.88's and a detroit. I'm not sure it makes sense to get rid of that in favor of a full-width 9".
The waggy front sounds good but I'm having a hard time finding the right one (discs, flat knuckles, drivers drop etc.)
The waggy front sounds good but I'm having a hard time finding the right one (discs, flat knuckles, drivers drop etc.)
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
That rear D44 is a decent piece IMHO. If you're running 35" tires and have no real reason to move up in size, I'd stick with the D30 and just deal with the busted shafts if you're having issues. You could get down to about 15 minutes for a changeover with the unit bearings.
To ME, it doesn't make sense to dump the XJ D44 for a 9" unless you're wanting to move up in tire size. I don't like bigger than 35" tires on an XJ. It's just my opinion. I'm sure other people have had success with 42" TSLs or something, but my personal preference would be to stick to a 35"ish tire and just live with the D30.
parks_pop
Active Member
- Location
- Stansbury Park
I'm not even running 35's yet. It's just that I would like to ditch the 33's and go to 35's. My D30 is HP with no vacuum. You think I should stick with it?
I appreciate your advice given the amount of previous experience you have had with the XJ.
I appreciate your advice given the amount of previous experience you have had with the XJ.
I ran a 30 with 35s on my TJ and had no problems and it was a low pinion. I'm not a big skinny pedal guy though. The high pinion the XJ gives you a stronger ring gear. I'd stick with what you have until you have problems. You may want to upgrade the shafts and u-joints.