Report Grafton Ghost Town & Smithsonian Butte Trail

SAMI

Formerly Beardy McGee
Location
SLC, UT
I figured there’d be plenty of time to explore some Utah history while in/around Leeds for the weekend at Jacey’s grandparent’s; after we finished up with the furniture her gramps was building for us anyways. We headed out Sunday for Grafton, a well preserved ghost town along SR-9, just west of Rockville by a mile or two.

TerrainMapofGrafton-SmithsonianRd.jpg


To reach Grafton, drive to the sleepy town of Rockville along UT9 and turn south on a side road (Bridge Lane) that crosses the Virgin River on a historic, single-track iron bridge, then turns due west. This soon becomes unpaved and follows along the foot of the low cliffs that separate the lush river valley from the arid rocky land beyond. After 2 miles the main road curves back south, climbs into the hills and becomes the Smithsonian Butte Road, a 9-mile scenic backway through a land of colorful mesas and canyons that eventually meets UT59 and so provides a useful short-cut between Zion National Park and the Arizona Strip, as well as offering many good free campsites. At the point where Bridge Lane bends south, a right turn continues roughly parallel with the river to the ghost town.

The first point of interest is the old cemetery - this has a few dozen graves from the period 1860 - 1910, with telling inscriptions that give some insight into the harsh life at that time, such as the three Berry brothers (and one wife), all killed by Indians on April 2nd 1866, or the five children of John and Charlotte Ballard, all of whom died young between 1865 and 1877, none living for more than 9 years. A track past the cemetery leads up the side of a sandy wash and has places to camp. Judging from the hundreds of expended cartridge cases, this is also a popular place for shooting at things.

grafton5b.jpg


Grafton20Graveyard20-20Bill20Cook.jpg


Grafton was established in 1859, to provide a settlement for people to grow cotton on the fertile plains next to the Virgin River, under the direction of Brigham Young; President of the LDS Church at the time. In January of 1862 the town was completely washed away by a flood. The people rebuilt the town a mile further up stream at its present site. By 1864 about 28 families lived here. There were many log houses, a post office, church, school and community hall. The town was deserted in 1866 due to Indian attacks. The people moved back in 1868. By 1920 only 3 families still lived here. Grafton has had parts of several movies shot here. One movie that was partly shot here was Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

100_3624.jpg


100_3626.jpg


100_3627.jpg


100_3630.jpg



The town site is a few hundred meters beyond the cemetary - several large buildings including a 2-story private residence and a combined church/schoolhouse built in 1886. A few people continue to live in other houses in the neighborhood, and some parts of the former village are fenced off yet the site is still quite atmospheric and authentic, with peaceful surroundings and with the high, colorful cliffs of the National Park providing a dramatic backdrop to the north.

**Something to note about Grafton. The long road seen in the forth picture that i've posted actually continues on to many other cabins, barns, and other structures. These are closed and posted NO TRESPASSING. A quick search online can yeild a few pictures of some other structures in Grafton, that are not otherwise seen by the main public road. I also read online that there are some families currently living down that road. I'm not 100% sure about this, but we did see 2-3 vehicles drive through the gate and park 300yds down the road at a large, very ole cabin. So there might be truth to this.

100_3639.jpg


100_3631.jpg


100_3635.jpg
 

SAMI

Formerly Beardy McGee
Location
SLC, UT
Smithsonian Butte Trail:

This road as mentioned previously links SR-9 to UT-59. It is a scenic route that will wind you right back into Hurricane if that's the direction you came from, which we did. This road is very easy to follow, as it is a major gravel road, obviously well traveled. Along this road, coming from Grafton/Rockville to US-59, you will get a good view of Eagle Crags, Smithsonian Butte, and awesome panoramas with all sorts of color. You will notice Eagle Crags off to your left as you climb up the hill from the Grafton cemetary. This is the jagged group of spire-like tops on the neighboring peak.

100_3641.jpg


As you wind around on the main road, you will come to a sharp left-hand turn; just before this turn is a road venturing off to the right. You will know you are in the right spot if there is what looks like a small parking lot at this trail-head. This is the Grafton Mesa Trail, a short 6 mile total trail that takes you to an overlook to view Grafton. There are a few camp sites along this trail that have spectacular views. The end of this trail is the overlook, but there is a walking path that wraps the rest of the way around the mesa to get a good look at Grafton. We turned around after some pictures, and headed back to the main road.

100_3642.jpg


100_3645.jpg


100_3647.jpg


100_3649.jpg


100_3652.jpg


Once back on the main road you will notice Smithsonian Butte on your left. I do not know the significance of the name, but I do know from my travels the next day that the an expert from the Smithsonian dubbed the silver inside a piece of petrified wood found in the Silver Reef area an, "interesting fake". Not too soon after this statement made by the "expert" at the Smithsonian, mining operations would prove to be extremely successful.

100_3653.jpg


After that the road is a straight shot out to US-59 as it passes through farmland.

This was a fun little jaunt, with great scenery and some cool old historic buildings to boot. If you are in the area, you had better at the very least poke in and check out Grafton. This trip took about 2 hours, it's very short and all could be done in a 2wd except for the Grafton Mesa Trail portion which got a bit rough.

-Jason
 

SAMI

Formerly Beardy McGee
Location
SLC, UT
Thanks guys.

Those main buildings in Grafton have been restored to what they look like now. They were in disrepair and pretty beat up, even after the filming of Butch Cassidy. You can sign up to be in the Grafton Town Association (or something to that affect), to which your money and support goes to maintaining and improving the buildings, roads, and fences. Also, the neighboring town of Rockville is basically one big care-taker for Grafton. It's awesome.. I need to figure out who I need to pay off to get down that "No Trespassing" road. That road has lots more buildings that aren't viewable by the public, unless they trespass of course.. But I see the sign and i'm like, you got it sign..

Check out these links for older pics of Grafton:

http://www.ghosttowngallery.com/htme/grafton.htm

http://www.ghosttowns.com/states/ut/grafton.html **Turn off your speakers for this site!! Annoying banjo music alert!!
 

chadschoon

Well-Known Member
Location
lehi
I got my first taste of grafton last month. That grave site is crazy! I also love how most of them were killed by Indians LOL kinds crazy. You also can't beat the downhill mountain biking on grafton or virgin river :)
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
That porch has been rebuilt in the last... 5-6yrs.. it was all messed up when I was there in 02-03? or so. That is a neat drive from Springdale. :D Nothing nothing nothing, Grafton cemetery!

nice writeup
 

Thursty

Well-Known Member
Location
Green River
Grafton is a great place to visit. My family used to camp at Zion every Spring break. Us kids always demanded to go to "the ghostown". I have alot of fond memories of the area. The last time I was there was the Spring of '98, with my future wife, when I was about 17. The buildings were really falling apart then. Its good to see the restoration work has been done. The buildings look great. Awesome trip report and pics SAMI.
 
Top