- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Thanks Stephen! Same here, I've always loved them... finally have one to play with! I'm really liking how this one is coming together.
You probably like them because they remind you of a Samurai....
Jeep Gregs Willys CJ2a, rusto-mod version
- Thread starter Greg
- Start date
Thanks Stephen! Same here, I've always loved them... finally have one to play with! I'm really liking how this one is coming together.
You probably like them because they remind you of a Samurai....
- Location
- Never Far From Nowhere
Thanks Stephen! Same here, I've always loved them... finally have one to play with! I'm really liking how this one is coming together.
You probably like them because they remind you of a Samurai....
About the same size!
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Great job on the 2A Greg, it is coming along nicely.
Mike
Mike
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Thanks Bart, yeah it's funny how a couple small things here & there have resulted in a pretty big difference! Still plenty of small things to come.
Thanks Mike, it's been a fun project to tinker with & improve on!
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Some more work on the CJ2a recently....
I got my replacement rear shackles and bolted them on, back to matching shackles F & R! They looks much stronger that the factory 'C' shackles.
Also did a little maint. on the front diff.... pulled the cover off to inspect the gears, cleaned it out real good then cleaned up the diff cover and painted it black. Replaced the diff. cover bolts and put it all back together with a LubeLocker gasket, then filled her up with fresh gear oil.
While I was playing with the front end awhile ago, I moved one of the wheels and saw how much slop there was in the TRE's... they were BAD! Ordered a kit with new TRE's and tie rods from Walcks which made it easy.
Next up, the front bumper with the rounded corners bothered me. I wanted something different, so marked out the bottom for a cut at a 45*, then cut straight up. The sheer amount of steel on the front of this thing is insane, I had to cut thru a couple parts that were doubled up and looked to be 1/2" thick steel!
Some quick cleaning up on the edges.... and done!
I got my replacement rear shackles and bolted them on, back to matching shackles F & R! They looks much stronger that the factory 'C' shackles.
Also did a little maint. on the front diff.... pulled the cover off to inspect the gears, cleaned it out real good then cleaned up the diff cover and painted it black. Replaced the diff. cover bolts and put it all back together with a LubeLocker gasket, then filled her up with fresh gear oil.
While I was playing with the front end awhile ago, I moved one of the wheels and saw how much slop there was in the TRE's... they were BAD! Ordered a kit with new TRE's and tie rods from Walcks which made it easy.
Next up, the front bumper with the rounded corners bothered me. I wanted something different, so marked out the bottom for a cut at a 45*, then cut straight up. The sheer amount of steel on the front of this thing is insane, I had to cut thru a couple parts that were doubled up and looked to be 1/2" thick steel!
Some quick cleaning up on the edges.... and done!
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- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
And my latest project.... this one has taken way more time and effort than expected. I upgraded the brake master cyl to a modern disc/drum with a kit from Kaiser Willys. It wasn't cheap, but came with all the parts needed. You have to do some cutting to recess the new master inside the frame rail, then drill a handful of holes to bolt it up. Once it was in place, I noticed my pitman arm would hit one of the fittings on the master cyl! I wasn't happy... the expensive kit that was supposed to fit, didn't! I emailed Kaiser Willys and they wanted to blame the engine swap.... but the steering box and components are all factory. Anyway, with little help from them I decided to try heating up the pitman arm with the torch and bending it. I was nervous because my fuel lines are close as well as some wiring. With some heat and piece of pipe, I was able to bend the arm to clear the master cylinder!
At that point, I needed/wanted to run all new hard lines. I elected to not use their metered proportioning valve and brake light, so bought an adjustable proportioning valve from Speedway Motors and a simple switch for brake lights. The Kaiser Willys prop. valve was a huge, factory-like brass one... didn't look easy to use.
I'm doing this work the best I can, I've built individual lines before but all new hard lines is new to me. I started fitting, flaring & bending brake lines.... and I'm still not done. The old lines ran under the frame, the 'T' in the front was at the axle and then they ran out to the brakes, down the axle housing. New setup will run down the top of the frame, 'T' at the frame and drop down to the new braided steel brake lines. One more hard line left left, and I buggered up the last piece last night!
I upgraded the brake master cyl to a modern disc/drum with a kit from Kaiser Willys. It wasn't cheap, but came with all the parts needed. You have to do some cutting to recess the new master inside the frame rail, then drill a handful of holes to bolt it up. Once it was in place, I noticed my pitman arm would hit one of the fittings on the master cyl! I wasn't happy... the expensive kit that was supposed to fit, didn't! I emailed Kaiser Willys and they wanted to blame the engine swap.... but the steering box and components are all factory. Anyway, with little help from them I decided to try heating up the pitman arm with the torch and bending it. I was nervous because my fuel lines are close as well as some wiring. With some heat and piece of pipe, I was able to bend the arm to clear the master cylinder!
At that point, I needed/wanted to run all new hard lines. I elected to not use their metered proportioning valve and brake light, so bought an adjustable proportioning valve from Speedway Motors and a simple switch for brake lights. The Kaiser Willys prop. valve was a huge, factory-like brass one... didn't look easy to use.
I'm doing this work the best I can, I've built individual lines before but all new hard lines is new to me. I started fitting, flaring & bending brake lines.... and I'm still not done. The old lines ran under the frame, the 'T' in the front was at the axle and then they ran out to the brakes, down the axle housing. New setup will run down the top of the frame, 'T' at the frame and drop down to the new braided steel brake lines. One more hard line left left, and I buggered up the last piece last night!
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- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Oh.... AND... lol....
Changed the oil, new filter. Went with Rotella dino oil. I knew the battery didn't have a hold down, so I bought a kit... but the piece over the top they provided was the wrong size, so I cut & drilled some flat steel plate to keep the battery in place. Simple, but a big deal if this thing will get used offroad!
Changed the oil, new filter. Went with Rotella dino oil. I knew the battery didn't have a hold down, so I bought a kit... but the piece over the top they provided was the wrong size, so I cut & drilled some flat steel plate to keep the battery in place. Simple, but a big deal if this thing will get used offroad!
smfulle
Active Member
- Location
- Plain City, UT
Looking good Greg. You going to be ready for the Easter Jeep Safari Friday Flat Fender Fun Run?
Are you doing all this work with one arm?
I think one of the keys to a successful double flair is to NEVER EVER attempt it with a kit from Harbor Freight. Other opinions may vary, but that's been my experience.
Are you doing all this work with one arm?
I think one of the keys to a successful double flair is to NEVER EVER attempt it with a kit from Harbor Freight. Other opinions may vary, but that's been my experience.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Thanks Bart.... I decided bending little brake lines is almost as time consuming as bending tube for a roll cage!
I sure hope so, Stan! My biggest issue with getting to EJS with the '48 is the lack of a truck & trailer at the moment... and the JKU isn't a great tow rig. I could flat tow it, but REALLY dislike the idea. I'm hoping I can snag a cheap truck & trailer before EJS.
My left arm is dong pretty good these days, it's still very sore but I have full range of motion. Still lacking some strength, but it's coming back!
I don't remember where I got my double flaring tool, I've had it for a long time... it doesn't work perfect, you have to be very careful with the flare or it'll just open up one side. Before I do this again, I'll buy a nicer setup... and not a Harbor Freight one for sure!
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I picked up a set of 35" Maxxis short course tires and 5 lug wheels from @RockChucker while I was in Utah a few days ago. These are intended for the Willys Crawler, but since I had the tires off the Yellow one, I had to test-fit them out of curiosity.
The rear axle has the CJ's weight on it, front axle is unloaded, so it looks a little funny. I still have the brakes apart and fenders off for repairs. I don't plan to run it like this, but it sure looks awesome! Looks like a Hot Wheels toy!
The rear axle has the CJ's weight on it, front axle is unloaded, so it looks a little funny. I still have the brakes apart and fenders off for repairs. I don't plan to run it like this, but it sure looks awesome! Looks like a Hot Wheels toy!
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Looks good Greg. Nice job on the brake lines.
Mike
Mike
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I came across something that I couldn't pass up... a open-box LockRite for the rear axle! It's never been installed and the price was great compared to a new one. It's 10 spline, so it'll work for the Dana 41 rear. I'm having issues with the spendy master cyl, so I'm still working on getting that working. Once the brakes are sorted, I'll install the LockRite. This is kind of funny, because I ran a LockRite in my old CJ5 many years ago!
My biggest motivation for the rear locker is to make the Flat Fender run during EJS. They're planning to run the Pickle.... I REALLY want to make that run with the '48 and would like to be prepared for the trail.
My biggest motivation for the rear locker is to make the Flat Fender run during EJS. They're planning to run the Pickle.... I REALLY want to make that run with the '48 and would like to be prepared for the trail.
RustEoldtrux
RustEoldtrux
- Location
- Evanston, WY
If you sign up for the Pickle on the first Saturday, the 24th, my BIL Jeremy will be the trail leader. My wife's Grandfather Devon and I will also be a gunners. Your CJ would be great on that trail.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I'm trying to make it happen, really need to solve the brake issue and I'd love to get some trail-time on the Willys so it's proven before EJS!
smfulle
Active Member
- Location
- Plain City, UT
Greg, I suspect that the Lock Right got returned because the holes the pins and springs that connect the to halves together fit in are not machined properly. I ran across this several times with the units I tried to install in my CJ2A. I sent a couple of them back, but finally decided to fix it myself.
So, before you get everything all greased up, make sure that the pins will go to the end of every hole. If they don't, you'll have to ream that hole out a little bit. I used a dremel tool with a chainsaw sharpening bit in it. That fit right in the hole and touched it up perfectly.
I'm sure you already know how to install them, but I did a "how to" thread on thecj2apage when I installed my front Lock Right.
https://thecj2apage.com/forums/lock-right-in-front_topic34436.html
So, before you get everything all greased up, make sure that the pins will go to the end of every hole. If they don't, you'll have to ream that hole out a little bit. I used a dremel tool with a chainsaw sharpening bit in it. That fit right in the hole and touched it up perfectly.
I'm sure you already know how to install them, but I did a "how to" thread on thecj2apage when I installed my front Lock Right.
https://thecj2apage.com/forums/lock-right-in-front_topic34436.html
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Good to know, Stan! This locker seems to be new-in-box, I don't think anyone attempted to install it yet, but I'll check the pins and holes next time I'm out in the shop. I have a air-powered die grinder with an assortments of bits that make quick work with metal removal. And thanks for the walk-thru in your link, that will help a lot! It's been.... oh.... 20 years since the last time I installed a LockRite?!
My issue is that I'm getting NO fluid out of the brand new master for the rear brakes. The fronts are good to go, they feel great. I bench bleed the master and thought it was good, but have no fluid to the rear brakes. I pulled the hard line off at the master and get nothing, even though the pedal feels great. I've emailed Kaiser-Willys and they tried to put me in contact with the company that supplied the Master Cyl, but they're not trying very hard to help me fix it. One call that I missed and no follow up. I'm not impressed with this disc brake master cyl. conversion from Kaiser-Willys or their customer service. This project has been dragging on for months due to unexpected issues, the steering arm hitting the new master and now this. Wishing I would have just stuck with drum brakes at this point!!
My next step is to pull the master cyl out AGAIN and try to figure why I'm not getting any fluid out of the pot for the rear brakes.