Hardline90's CJ7 RE-visited
- Thread starter Coco
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build thread
krany
kranberry
- Location
- saratoga springs
X2 what color? Keeping with the old paint job right
krany
kranberry
- Location
- saratoga springs
That blue colors really nice, old scheme was nice and simple
Alright here is some more pics of the paint. It is looking goooood with paint, and the pics dont do it any type of justice.
Those bars around the battery is part of an inner fender, so it keeps mud and crap out of the battery, and wiring.
Well here's some pics....Notice anything different??? It wont be hard to notice.
Yup, went back to the old hood
There is a reason that pops decided to go back to the old hood. When he started painting it, he noticed the hood was rubbing on the grille hoop. We built that with probably 1/4" of room for the hood to be able to open. After he noticed the hood was rubbing, he was trying to figure out how it could be rubbing and slept on it, he woke up at 5:30 this morning, and thought about it, and realized the frame was starting to tweak/bend, and was allowing the hood to rub on the hoop.
The frame is not supported in the circle, and it was allowing everything to flex/bend, everything else is supported, so that is where he is thinking the weak spot in the frame is. Everything else is tied in but that section, and with all the weight on the frame, and the front coilovers pushing up, it is allowing the frame to bend. What does this have to do with the hood you ask?? Well, he is going to tie the cage into the front grille hoop, so everything is solid. and there just isnt anyway of doing it with the new hood, without either 1. adding a lot of bends, which will weaken the strength of the tube, and ultimately undo what he is trying to do. OR 2. look good and clean.
So we are going to run a bar from the cage to the grille hoop, and run it right under the hood, and follow the hood. And hopefully strengthen everything up. He let the Jeep sit on jack stands under the frame, and then let the front drop down a bit, and now the hood closes and shuts with no issues.
Pops is thinking that if we would have taken another run, it could have ripped right off, then he would be in a world of hurt. It is good that he caught it, rather than have the frame rip in half out on the trail, it just SUCKS because that hood completed the whole look of the jeep IMO. :-\
So, he is probably going to be listing that hood up for sale pretty soon.
Those bars around the battery is part of an inner fender, so it keeps mud and crap out of the battery, and wiring.
Well here's some pics....Notice anything different??? It wont be hard to notice.
Yup, went back to the old hood
There is a reason that pops decided to go back to the old hood. When he started painting it, he noticed the hood was rubbing on the grille hoop. We built that with probably 1/4" of room for the hood to be able to open. After he noticed the hood was rubbing, he was trying to figure out how it could be rubbing and slept on it, he woke up at 5:30 this morning, and thought about it, and realized the frame was starting to tweak/bend, and was allowing the hood to rub on the hoop.
The frame is not supported in the circle, and it was allowing everything to flex/bend, everything else is supported, so that is where he is thinking the weak spot in the frame is. Everything else is tied in but that section, and with all the weight on the frame, and the front coilovers pushing up, it is allowing the frame to bend. What does this have to do with the hood you ask?? Well, he is going to tie the cage into the front grille hoop, so everything is solid. and there just isnt anyway of doing it with the new hood, without either 1. adding a lot of bends, which will weaken the strength of the tube, and ultimately undo what he is trying to do. OR 2. look good and clean.
So we are going to run a bar from the cage to the grille hoop, and run it right under the hood, and follow the hood. And hopefully strengthen everything up. He let the Jeep sit on jack stands under the frame, and then let the front drop down a bit, and now the hood closes and shuts with no issues.
Pops is thinking that if we would have taken another run, it could have ripped right off, then he would be in a world of hurt. It is good that he caught it, rather than have the frame rip in half out on the trail, it just SUCKS because that hood completed the whole look of the jeep IMO. :-\
So, he is probably going to be listing that hood up for sale pretty soon.
hardline90
Real rigs are built!
- Location
- Lehi, Utah
Let me clear a few things up. The frame is not bending, it is flexing and I believe it may break if I continue to allow it to flex, so I am tying the front of the Jeep into the cage to stiffen everything up. Passenger side is done, but ran out of 1 3/4 X 120 wall DOM, so if anyone has some or knows where I can get some, please let me know. I know I can get a full stick, but I only need about 6ft. Later.
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
YJ_AUZZY is looking to buy 60' of 1.75"X.120" for his cage.
hardline90
Real rigs are built!
- Location
- Lehi, Utah
Thanks!!! I need it sooner rather than later, but I will find out when he is going to make his order.
- Location
- farmington
I can loan you a stick until you get yours.
It is in Kaysville
It is in Kaysville
rockreligious
NoEcoNaziAmmo
- Location
- Ephraim
I plated my frame right there and now Im cracking next to the plate and Ive got tube that ties my cage to the front hoop, mine has both pressure of the shock hoop and front pan hard bracket, now cracked after the shock of a couple of hard rolls.
hardline90
Real rigs are built!
- Location
- Lehi, Utah
I think I may extend the fish plate over to the bump stop mount and see if I can add a few more tubes. My pan hard bar mount is right next to the winch plate that is solid mounted between the frame rails, so I think I'm good there. The weak spot is right at the motor mounts, so just need to keep things from twisting. I maybe just a little paranoid, but better to be safe than sorry.
hardline90
Real rigs are built!
- Location
- Lehi, Utah
Rockreligious - Do you have a cross bar tying the top of your shock hoops together? I was just looking at mine and it looks like that cross member should help with any twisting of the frame and the bar I have added under the hood is tied into both the grill hoop and small stinger on the front and the A-pillar in the rear and soon to be ran back to the B-pillar as well. Seems like that should stiffen the whole front end a lot. What do you guys think?
rockreligious
NoEcoNaziAmmo
- Location
- Ephraim
Rockreligious - Do you have a cross bar tying the top of your shock hoops together? I was just looking at mine and it looks like that cross member should help with any twisting of the frame and the bar I have added under the hood is tied into both the grill hoop and small stinger on the front and the A-pillar in the rear and soon to be ran back to the B-pillar as well. Seems like that should stiffen the whole front end a lot. What do you guys think?
No, I havent tied my hoops together, wouldnt be a bad Idea though, Ive just plated the frame where I welded my hoops in, plus I bent and welded flat metal around my hoops and trussed the heck out of it. there is a picture on my build thread, kinda mid-evil looking.
cheepin
Active Member
- Location
- Parachute Co.
You might think about adding a couple of gussets to your motor mounts.I have 3 total at each mount.2 going to the frame.You can see in the pic.And one going to the shock tower.Since my back shock tube is inline with the motor mount.
