• DCRC 2024

Header pipe dent removal

Caleb

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
I did this on my stock pipe on my CRF. I replaced my stock one with an FMF Powerbomb so I gave this a shot as I didn't care about it if I happened to ruin it. It worked, but not 100%. I probably could have done it a couple times and gotten it completely out, but at that point I didn't really care.
 
Rot Box

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
I have a technique on two stroke pipes using compressed air and a rose bud. Other than discoloration it works extremely well. After repairing dozens of pipes (some smashed so bad the bike would barely run) I have yet to see one that couldn't be saved :cool:

Not sure how it would work on the weird 4T stuff....
 
1\4elliptic toy

1\4elliptic toy

shenanigans!
Location
The Dark Side
Rot Box said:
I have a technique on two stroke pipes using compressed air and a rose bud. Other than discoloration it works extremely well. After repairing dozens of pipes (some smashed so bad the bike would barely run) I have yet to see one that couldn't be saved :cool:

Not sure how it would work on the weird 4T stuff....
Click to expand...

I have done this many times in the past, in the 80s and 90s it was common to do.
 
V

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
ricsrx said:
what PSI is needed to make this work? then just apply heat?
Click to expand...

Obviously, you're referring to Rot Box's method of using compressed air and a torch. I've never tried that, so he'll have to give us the specifics. I'm just gonna try the good 'ol freezer method.
 
Rot Box

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
ricsrx said:
what PSI is needed to make this work? then just apply heat?
Click to expand...

House pressure at my work is around 115psi but anything above 70 should be more than enough. I don't have pics of my caps and its pretty hard to explain but I'll do my best lol..... I basically tack weld a flat steel cap (flat plate or anything that covers it completely) over the stinger end. On the header end I have a ball valve threaded into another cap which is also tack welded on with a quick coupler for air. Tack the caps on lightly so air can escape as you don't want it sealed off completely but you still want to be able to build a little pressure. Tacking them also allows the caps to be removed easily with a few taps of a hammer.

With caps installed, pipe in a vise and the air hooked up heat the dents with the rose bud then work the ball valve on and off to "pop" the dents out. You want to give it short burst of air a little at a time. Does that make sense?

Again you can take a mangled pipe and make it look new with very little work. I need to make a vid its actually really cool watching it your first time :cool:
 
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