Help reading an alignment sheet

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Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Location
The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
See attached.
Wondering if someone can help me understand this sheet.


If the total toe before was 0.15*
is that toe in our out?


also what does steer ahead at 0.22* mean?

if the current or "after" measurement reads total toe as 0.13* and the steer ahead changed to -0.01*
what changed?
 

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they adjusted the tie rods in relation to the steering wheel, the steer ahead is the steering wheels relation to the toe

and positive toe is in, negative toe is out...
 
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How do they measure "steer ahead".
It's a solid axle with a tie rod that goes knuckle to knuckle.

So all they did was adjust the steering wheel center via the drag link?
.02* toe isn't enough to change anything.

I brought in in initially because the tires were wearing badly on the inner side of the tread
and was told it need new ball joints (which it did, uppers where bad, but I changed them all while I was at it) and that it was toe out.
I changed the ball joints and brought it back in.
 
If the steering wheel was not crooked when you took it in you got ripped off. Looks like they turned the wheel to the right to make it look like it was out of alignment to the untrained eye then saved the before measurements then straightened the steering wheel and printed it out. The total toe is the same before and after along with the rest of the measurements, it is very likely that zero adjustments were made to the alignment.
 
They didn't adjust the toe. It is knuckle to knuckle steering. Total toe is the same before and after. On knuckle to knuckle steering throw individual toe out the window. Tie rod adjusts total toe, drag link adjusts "steer ahead" no adjustments were made to that vehicle
 
At best they changed the drag link slightly which has zero effect on tire wear. But if the steering wheel was not crooked before or after the alignment nothing was done to it.
 
'03_RUBI said:
They didn't adjust the toe. It is knuckle to knuckle steering. Total toe is the same before and after. On knuckle to knuckle steering throw individual toe out the window. Tie rod adjusts total toe, drag link adjusts "steer ahead" no adjustments were made to that vehicle
Click to expand...
You might want to think that through again the number 15 is not the same as the number 13 .. looking at the spec sheet if it is honest they did adjust the toe.. yes on knuckle to knuckle it does adjust both at the same time but it is also in relation to the steering wheel being centered. Most shops are a little lazy and if they need to adjust the toe on knuckle to knuckle steering that requires removal of a TRE they don't do both sides only one and then adjust the "steer ahead" to be correct.
 
I am standing in front of a top of the line alignment computer as I type this. I have never seen a vehicle in ten years that required removal of a tie rod to adjust alignment, one side should have left handed threads to prevent that. .02 is not enough to change anything just like Stratton said. You can move that number that far by breathing on the sensor
 
'03_RUBI said:
I am standing in front of a top of the line alignment computer as I type this. I have never seen a vehicle in ten years that required removal of a tie rod to adjust alignment, one side should have left handed threads to prevent that. .02 is not enough to change anything just like Stratton said. You can move that number that far by breathing on the sensor
Click to expand...

I've seen a few but its generally nasty heim applications in which they decided it was cheaper to buy right-handed thread tie-rod ends and a RH tap for the DOM. I was thinking of Jeep Cherokee style from setups but they use an adjuster sleeve on both the TR and DL rather than threaded ends right?

Edit: Its easier (more precise) to adjust toe on my LC by removing a TRE due to the hydro assist, while its possible to remove the hydro ram I have to do full 360* rotations thus bringing in both ends 1 full thread rather than just one side.
 
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cruiseroutfit said:
I've seen a few but its generally nasty heim applications in which they decided it was cheaper to buy right-handed thread tie-rod ends and a RH tap for the DOM. I was thinking of Jeep Cherokee style from setups but they use an adjuster sleeve on both the TR and DL rather than threaded ends right?

Edit: Its easier (more precise) to adjust toe on my LC by removing a TRE due to the hydro assist, while its possible to remove the hydro ram I have to do full 360* rotations thus bringing in both ends 1 full thread rather than just one side.
Click to expand...

There are other setups such as where there is no adjuster on the knuckle to knuckle (I used to have a setup like this and I think that is what Stratton is running?)... 2* isn't a lot but was on my XJ about 1 turn of a single TRE on one side...

I have never seen a vehicle in ten years that required removal of a tie rod to adjust alignment
Click to expand...
Basically until Stratton Verifies what his exact setup is this argument is really on hold.... but your 10 years has obviously not shown you everything there is out there has it.. Also there is a difference between a Tie Rod and a Tie Rod End (TRE)
 
'03_RUBI said:
It is not 2* difference it is .02
Click to expand...

I will give you that.. not paying enough attention to that.. so they may not have done anything.. but you are still wrong on the fact that there are setups out there that require the removal of the TRE :)
 
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