Help w/ General Beefing up of my Scrambler...

cyberduke

Hairy Bagel
Location
S. Jordan
Since my SOA on my Scrambler, I've noticed that there are a few things that need attn on my rig to make it more trail capable. The big one being to beef (or completely replace) the skid plate/tranny support. Currently the stock one (very flimsy stamped soft steel) is supporting my T-18 w/ a D300 and when crawling over the rocks the tranny will wiggle around so bad that corners have actually mangled the metal in my tub around the inspection hole. I'm sure that the rubber mount that connects from the tranny to the skid plate is much to blame, but to just see the whole arrangement you wonder if there's not a better, stronger way. So I have 2 requests.

1) Anyone have ideas (or expirence) in design for my problem? Care to share ideas?

2) Even kewl-er would be someone assisting in construction (or allowing me to assist them. I'd provied pizza and beverage :D)

Thanx in advance,
-Earl
 
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bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
While the stock skid.crossmember is not the greatest it does not flex enough to be a big concern. You problem is more than likely your motor mounts and some of the blame could go to the rubber tranny mount. Are you still running the 258? The design of the motor mount location on the 258 will always be a problem. Where the mounts bolt to the engine makes it very hard for even very rigid mounts to resist the torque of the engine. The best you can do is go with some MORE bullitproof motor mounts and replace your tranny mount with a poly one. You can have a custom tube crossmember built (Rocklogic makes very nice ones) But the powertrain will still move because of the mounts. If it was your skid that was twisting it would have completely destroyed itself by now and your framerails would probably be toast as well.
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Ditto on the 258 mounts and tranny mount. You could clock the t-case and make a flatter skid, but your t-18 will still hang down so much, that it wouldn't do much good to clock your t-case, so forget I said that. :D
 

Andy

aka. Hollywood
I know how to do it but I'm not going to tell you now! And I would have the place to do it but I can't get there with all the snow, every time I go to work on the buggy I have to break a new trail in the snow (at least 30" deep or more :mad: ) I don't think I'll be able to get my trailer out until spring. Call me if you want my help, you should have my number. :D
 

cyberduke

Hairy Bagel
Location
S. Jordan
bobdog said:
Are you still running the 258?
Nope. I put a 304 in it. "Why the hell would you put an AMC 304 in anything?" Well, way back when when I got my CJ5, I thought it would be less expensive, and easiest to just use the stock motor. Now forgive me, I was brand new and a young punk (now I'm an old punk) I rebuilt it at RPM's in West Jordan. They did a great job. And I payed for it - $2500! Ugh! In retrospect, I know I could have had a nice 350 in front of that T-18. So fast foward a few years when I made up for my financial f***up (Hey, it's a strong running motor!) and bought my Scrambler running and little rust for $2500, I put all the good parts from the CJ5 into my 8. Which included the 304.

Thank you though for pointing the motor mount issue. On further reflection, I think I'd still like to beef up/replace the skit plate. Just for my ease of mind.
Also I thought that I could plan for a future 4 link setup.

bobdog said:
(Rocklogic makes very nice ones)
I love these guys! They do great great work. And Andy, They have a welder! :D But I'd like to build/create w/ some help from someone so that I can learn something and say "Hey, someone else did that but I helped".


Andy said:
Call me if you want my help, you should have my number.

You got a welder?

(Damn I crack myself up)

-Earl
 

Andy

aka. Hollywood
cyberduke said:
You got a welder?

(Damn I crack myself up)

-Earl


Uuuh YEAH, dumb ass!!! How the hell do you think I am able to finish the dumpster? Oh wait! mine's not the rust bucket dumpster!!! :rofl: You'll be cracking up plenty with that stock frame too! :D Don't burn those bridges Earl!
 

grinch

inner city redneck
Location
Salt Lake City
If your willing to do a 2" body lift, 1" motor mount lift. You can get that t 18 pritty close to flat bottom skid plate.... Just takes alot of reworking. When I built my flat bottom for my dana 300 ( its a scoute so it hangs down a little more than a jeep)I just took a sheet of 1/4 steel and traced the old skid plat holes on it.... so its not a true flat bottom it drops a 1/4 inch and has one spot where there is a 1" drop tunnel where the dana 300 still drops down a little below the rest of the skid plate...
I didnt do a 1' motor mount lift and in rasing up the tranny and t case it pushed the fan into the radiator... I was easier for me to just relocate the raidiator to the rear but im pritty sure a motor mount lift would have solved the prob... I also run the 258 so its a little longer than the 304 so you might not have those clearance issues with the fan at all.....
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Suka has some nice prebent skid plates too, that is where I got mine. I had to narrow it for a CJ frame but it is the cats a$$ as they say :D
 

idoc

Registered User
Location
Beaver, Utah
where on the scrambler frame are the weak points that need to be beefed?

I just bought a scrambler for a project and am going to add some strength to the frame and other weak spots.
 

Turbobob

Semper Fi
idoc said:
where on the scrambler frame are the weak points that need to be beefed?

I just bought a scrambler for a project and am going to add some strength to the frame and other weak spots.

Anywhere from the firewall foreward is prone to cracking. My frame has cracked twice right at where the steering box mounts. The second time it started at the bottom & went to the top, almost in 2 :ugh:
 
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