Help with my yardscaping plans?

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Anyone with a green thumb want to help with my yardscaping plans? I'm planning (in general terms) the green outlined space (that will go to the edge of the culdesac as allowed, I'm just not clear on if I have a sidewalk as of yet?) as grass and the brown outlined space as gravel. I'd like to find some faster growing trees (I'm not getting any younger) to put on the back of the property to shade the backyard. If I have to plant some annoying trees that grow faster and put some quality trees that grow a little slower I can/will stagger those along the back fence so I can remove the (usually) crappier trees in 10-15 yrs and leave the nicer ones to mature.

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Oh, and if anyone is looking, I still need a neighbor east of me. Lot is 4.344 acres if I remember correctly. Same width as mine but deeper and immediately east of me in the culdesac. 3 existing homes on the street and 2 to be built. Nice area immediately east of hwy 89 near the Bountiful/NSL border
 

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SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
X2 on the Sycamore. Unfortunately my folks just had theirs removed because it got way too big for their front yard. It was enormous...it was planted 10 years ago as a 3" caliper.

We've had good luck with Autumn Blaze Maples. We also planted 2, 3 clump Hot Wing Maples. I like the coverage from the clumped trees.

As said, this is johngottfredsons wheel house.

We had some plans and landscaping done by https://www.lovelandlandscape.com/
 

BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
Marc, it well worth the cost to have the yard including the plants and irrigation designed by a professional. In my case, living the desert now, I had no clue as to which plants would thrive here.

I figured probably a dozen or so trees and shrubs would do it. The designer came back with over 50 plants, and I must say, there is still a very large amount that’s nothing but gravel. But, that may be shop area some day.
 

johngottfredson

Threat Level Midnight
Location
Alpine
I would say no on planting "weed" trees even for the short term; once their roots are in the ground under the yard, it's stupid hard to get them out, and their roots actually choke out other trees. I'm dealing with this problem in my yard now, its the worst.

Plant London Planetrees (Platanus x acerifolia 'bloodgood') in a 2.5-3" caliper size. Best scenario is to do like @nnnnnate did and purchase the trees container grown (in a pot or cedar box) rather than field grown (balled and burlapped, or "B&B"). Field grown trees require a huge amputation of their root system to get dug, so you loose time why they try and recover, whereas container grown trees can get right down to business.

121698

Key here is installation - dig the hole 4x (for realzzz) the width of the root ball, without planting deeper than the top of the rootball, and backfill with good loam soil mixed with organic material (peat moss, compost, etc), and provide proper watering. Those trees will grow at least 2x/year as fast as the same trees planted in a small hole with native soil alone.

If possible, plant a shade tree close to your outdoor living space for an overhead shade canopy, rather than relying on trees along the back property line alone. My paver patio is under the shade of a london planetree and a honeylocust, which provide shade throughout the day to the patio, surrounding yard, and house on the SW side where its needed.

Beware autumn blaze maples - they tend to struggle in our alkaline soils and get iron chlorosis (where they turn yellow and eventually die back) and must be treated with kelated iron. Some do okay, but its a serious risk - to be sure you can have your soils tested.
121697
A good alternate is a Norwegian Sunset maple - similar red fall color, but does much better in our soils, although does not grow as fast and large as autumn blaze.

 

BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
I would say no on planting "weed" trees even for the short term; once their roots are in the ground under the yard, it's stupid hard to get them out, and their roots actually choke out other trees. I'm dealing with this problem in my yard now, its the worst.

Plant London Planetrees (Platanus x acerifolia 'bloodgood') in a 2.5-3" caliper size. Best scenario is to do like @nnnnnate did and purchase the trees container grown (in a pot or cedar box) rather than field grown (balled and burlapped, or "B&B"). Field grown trees require a huge amputation of their root system to get dug, so you loose time why they try and recover, whereas container grown trees can get right down to business.

View attachment 121698

Key here is installation - dig the hole 4x (for realzzz) the width of the root ball, without planting deeper than the top of the rootball, and backfill with good loam soil mixed with organic material (peat moss, compost, etc), and provide proper watering. Those trees will grow at least 2x/year as fast as the same trees planted in a small hole with native soil alone.

If possible, plant a shade tree close to your outdoor living space for an overhead shade canopy, rather than relying on trees along the back property line alone. My paver patio is under the shade of a london planetree and a honeylocust, which provide shade throughout the day to the patio, surrounding yard, and house on the SW side where its needed.

Beware autumn blaze maples - they tend to struggle in our alkaline soils and get iron chlorosis (where they turn yellow and eventually die back) and must be treated with kelated iron. Some do okay, but its a serious risk - to be sure you can have your soils tested.
View attachment 121697
A good alternate is a Norwegian Sunset maple - similar red fall color, but does much better in our soils, although does not grow as fast and large as autumn blaze.

I completely forgot about the Honey Locust. Marc, remember that monster tree in my front yard that kept my entire house shaded and cool? Honey Locust, if you have the room!
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
I’ll get a better picture this afternoon but the plot is cleared and the cul de sac is finally going in

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CB515C7E-DAFE-41BD-A51A-BF37E713EF94.jpeg

We were able to keep 3 somewhat mature trees. The two near the property line are existing Juniper trees and the one in the middle is kind of a scraggly Pine or spruce the may recover or may not with some care?
 
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Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
I'm a huge fan of the London Planetree. I have two in my front yard that we planted ten years ago that are wonderful. I planted a third down at my property north of Fairview last year and it broke in half during the heavy winter. I thought it would be a goner after that, but it came back with a fury after I cut the dead trunk off. It's doubled it's size this year easily.
 

nnnnnate

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
WVC, UT
I don't know who that dude is but I am pretty jealous of that yard. Whoever poured those counters also did a bang up job. Now I'm wondering if I could pull that off for the area under my future pergola. I imagine theres a whole mess of rebar in that sucker to hold everything up.
 
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