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Hey Hickey....lets do it

grinch

grinch

inner city redneck
Location
Salt Lake City
Now this could be good if its a true go..... Another axle almost as strong as a 60
(Thats if you have the dana 50 TTB setup)
Any more info on this???
Its kind of peaked my interest.
 
Milner

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
Location
Hiding behind a camera
grinch said:
Now this could be good if its a true go..... Another axle almost as strong as a 60
(Thats if you have the dana 50 TTB setup)
Any more info on this???
Its kind of peaked my interest.
Click to expand...

Pretty much only an option for those of us that already have ttb 50's. Not worth the trouble or effort for anything else....shafts still neck down, still a 50 still the same probs, just not the ttb problems....Drop brackets and bushings in mine are causing grief....
 
grinch

grinch

inner city redneck
Location
Salt Lake City
rckcrlr said:
Pretty much only an option for those of us that already have ttb 50's. Not worth the trouble or effort for anything else....shafts still neck down, still a 50 still the same probs, just not the ttb problems....Drop brackets and bushings in mine are causing grief....
Click to expand...

Yeah I just went out and looked at the setup on my old ford. Probably not so good for a rockcrawler but a good conversion for a daily driver.
Hell if I wasn't just going to rip the 5.8 out of it and put it in my jeep It could have been a good lift option....
Good luck on the project.
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
Yup, I am saving the beams for you. when I put my 60 in,the old drop brackets and their matching holes in the frame were all wallowed out. Ready when you are. :cool:
 
Milner

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
Location
Hiding behind a camera
Hickey said:
Yup, I am saving the beams for you. when I put my 60 in,the old drop brackets and their matching holes in the frame were all wallowed out. Ready when you are. :cool:
Click to expand...
:cool:
Sweet, I'm gonna start rounding up some stel for plating, and making a jig....
THANKS
Marc

BTW, drove by the Frito plant on the way home from the concert the other night, looked for your truck, we're gonna leave you a present....but it wasn't there.... :D
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
rckcrlr said:
:cool:
Sweet, I'm gonna start rounding up some stel for plating, and making a jig....
THANKS
Marc

BTW, drove by the Frito plant on the way home from the concert the other night, looked for your truck, we're gonna leave you a present....but it wasn't there.... :D
Click to expand...
I park in the handicap parking ;)

Why not just have your truck aligned and then weld it together while it is still under the truck? Either way, It sounds fun. what gears do you have? Mine are 4.10's.
 
B

bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
I think it is booty fabish, but I guess you could call the way the TTBs came from the factory booty fab as well. What was your total cost to put the Solid 60 under yours Hicky? The funny thing is that in 97 when I bought my F350 The base price difference between the TTB 250 and the solid 60 350s was $250. Only problem was if you wanted an extra cab 350 they never made them for some stupid reason.
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
My total cost was about $1200.

I thought about just welding it up like this a few times before, but I never took myself serious. This link gives me a lot of gumption to do it though.
 
Milner

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
Location
Hiding behind a camera
Yep, booty fab for sure....But at least if done on a jig and with enough measuring, plating, and gusseting, it is not toooooooo booty....Now just welding it up as is, uner the truck....Thats booty :D

One reason I want to try it, I already have 4.10's and an ARB in the 50....Thanks to Holmer ;) and I like to try things just too see if it works....

My other issue....if I find a 60 I can afford, it would be cheap, which means I could make $$ off of it if I sold it. Other wise a 60 would be $1000+, my need gears and I would lose the arb....I am not worried about axle/rp stregth, it is a tow rig, not a wheeler....

I think it can be done well, with care and time....

Marc
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
rckcrlr said:
I think it can be done well, with care and time....

Marc
Click to expand...
I think so too. Essentially it would end up as strong or stronger than a SD 50 housing. Are you planning on getting those adjustable camber shims in the link?
You will need new steering too. The guy in the link ran his under the knuckle. I suggest we re taper the holes and run it on top to help with bump steer.
 
Milner

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
Location
Hiding behind a camera
Hickey said:
I think so too. Essentially it would end up as strong or stronger than a SD 50 housing. Are you planning on getting those adjustable camber shims in the link?
You will need new steering too. The guy in the link ran his under the knuckle. I suggest we re taper the holes and run it on top to help with bump steer.
Click to expand...

Yep, it already has the shims/eccentrics in it.
As for steering, that is what I was already planning....I have built HD stering like that for years....Use the big chev ends. Use one on the tirod the is standard, use the one with the hole in it on the other end, for the drag link to go to. Already have the drop pitman, so just have to build a track bar mnt that matches up with the drag link....Long one. those SD shorties hurt the ride/articulation, and seem to break....I hate a track on a leaf spring, but with this, handling is more important than articulation....

I like the challenge....My kind of sick/twisted fun :eek:
 
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