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Hickey's 2015 JK Rubicon "Build" thread

Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
I finally got the diff covers painted and mounted, and I started building a cargo basket.









The cargo basket was one I actually built for a different Jeep 5 years ago with the help of Carl (he really is a great helpy-helperton). I modified it to mount over the driver's seat in this Jeep.
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
Once again with Carl's help, I built a new HD tie rod using those GM style offset tie rod ends. Carl tapped the heavy wall tubing and I sleeved it with some 1.5" 120 wall tube.

 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Schwing!

I was wondering if the taper of the JK tie rod ends is the same as those offset TRE's? Or will you need to ream the holes larger?
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
I Lean said:
Schwing!

I was wondering if the taper of the JK tie rod ends is the same as those offset TRE's? Or will you need to ream the holes larger?
Click to expand...

I haven't come across any info suggesting that it might be an issue. Ruff stuff sells the same TRE's in a kit specifically for JK's, and they say it's a bolt-in mod. I do have the tapered reamer if it needs it.

Edit: some quick googling confirms that the tapers match. My only worry is if I will rub the diff cover with the HD tie rod.
 
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Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
The Carl-tuff tie rod was a great upgrade, as it seemed to be the only JK tie rod that wasn't bent after the Rubicon trip. I did have to change some wheel weights from clip-on to stick-on, as the clip style weights were wiped off by the tie rod.

Last week, I wrapped my grille. This was my first attempt at wrapping anything, and it went OK. There are a few bubbles and tears, but I'm satisfied enough that I would do it again if it starts peeling in a while.

 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
I finally took some time to repair some damage incurred on my Rubicon trip. My rear LCA mounts at the axle were pretty beat up, as they hang down like digging tines on a tractor.



Just before the trip, I realized that all of my shocks only have about 2" of down travel, and never get anywhere close to full compression. The shocks are really too short for this lift application.

My front shock at full extension, unbolted from the mount next to it.


This explains why our friend Chad from Canada mentioned that I always had a tired in the air when we were on Golden Spike last year.

I decide I would cut off and plate the bottom of each rear LCA mount, and raise the shock mount at the same time.

Here is a terrible cell pic with the drivers side mount repaired and shock mount moved up. The passenger side is stock.


I cut off 2" from the control arm mounts and raised each shock mount 2.5". This gives me pretty equal up and down travel now. I flexed out the suspension on the boulders in my front yard (because what kind of crazy person doesn't have landscaping that can be used for suspension testing?) and I still have about 1" of shaft showing at full bump.

I'm pretty satisfied with the end result.


I should have angled this mount a bit more, but I'll leave it for now.


Next I'll need to address brake lines and fix the front shock mounts.
 
Bart

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
OMG, I love those wheels and am now really glad I didn't buy similar. We would have been so matching.
 
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