How do I make welds like this?

[chadschoon]

its a strong weld, just not as strong as some other types. It would hold up!

 

[chadschoon]

its more of a drag, pause, hold technique. But there is no stoping

 

[Ohms]

OH *****.... I told Schoon this would come up

The welds on schoons are a completely different style. Instead of everyone just expecting drama and BS. Hey Tacoma-come down and see how many different style welds I personally use everyday. If you feel my welds are weak then I'll remit. Its a different weld technique that I use on plate work vs. tube work.

Tube to Tube-different than 4130 plate to Tube. Get it? or do you want to come watch it done?

Start stop tackin is gay and weak on ANYTHING. There is no skill involved
Now to make that cool fat puddle that looks similair.......

 

[Ohms]

Constant doesn't go back on itself? Constant is ok, as long as you can get the heat and fill going.

Another reason not to go back on itself is it get's the weld too hot and breaks down the metal?

I'm in no way an expert... I wonder where the board experts are?

WAIT...A 'good' weld has each pass covering around fifty percent of the bead in front of it. Make sense? Im very particular on welding (Look at my liability) Our welds are constantly under scruntiny at Tuff Country. A Huge part of the equation is the settings on your welder!

 

[Tacoma]

OH *****.... I told Schoon this would come up

The welds on schoons are a completely different style. Instead of everyone just expecting drama and BS. Hey Tacoma-come down and see how many different style welds I personally use everyday. If you feel my welds are weak then I'll remit. Its a different weld technique that I use on plate work vs. tube work.

Tube to Tube-different than 4130 plate to Tube. Get it? or do you want to come watch it done?

Start stop tackin is gay and weak on ANYTHING. There is no skill involved
Now to make that cool fat puddle that looks similair.......

Easy, boss! HE said it wasn't as strong, not me. I don't care what style is used, as long as it holds up. I never saw any buggies falling apart, proof enough for me. Gosh! And I would LOVE to come watch it done, it fascinates me.

I get paid to be devil's advocate.

 

[chadschoon]

its still STRONG

 

[Ohms]

OK everything aside. I do realize everyone has an opinion. grab Schoon and you guys come down. I'll show ya how to make those welds in a continous pass. :greg:

To best try to explain it- when your welding the pcs. draw a ways past where you would stop and bring the puddle back,then bring the bead back a qtr. of the way you would normal. Then hold puddle there till it builds up. Voila you have funky phat beads that are properly overlapped, strong, and its a hell of a lotta fun once you 'get' it.

I do not use that weld on everything due to its size and length of time it takes. Plus since your not swirling its easy as hell to start missing the joint your trying to fill......
And finally-I'm no master, hell I dunno if I can even say that I'm a welder, just trying to answer the questions posted in the thread. I'm a huge tack all the way around hater-It's fawkin weak and whats the skill involved ??????

 

[Coco]

I use two methods, push and pull and/or small circles.

These are not the greatest. From what I have heard the "C" pattern is the best. that is what I use.

 

[Greg]

Here's one of my recent welds, the rear diff truss on a Dana 60-

Kinda a bad picture, but... Here I used an oval technique; start the weld, travel forward a bit then double back about 1/2 way up the start, repeat for continuous pass. I'm self taught, so I'm not going to claim that's the right way. I have used the 'C' technique & it does seem to add plenty of strength to the pieces being welded together. That probably would have been a better choice here, looking back on it.

I've been offered to be taught how to stack dimes with a continuous pass, looking forward to learning that process.

 

[chadschoon]

very nice greg

 

[Ohms]

Here's one of my recent welds, the rear diff truss on a Dana 60-

I've been offered to be taught how to stack dimes with a continuous pass, looking forward to learning that process.

Lemme know where to go and I'll meet ya there. I could use some schoolin'
And those welds are awesome Greg....Your whole project is looking amazing!

 

[Greg]

Lemme know where to go and I'll meet ya there. I could use some schoolin'
And those welds are awesome Greg....Your whole project is looking amazing!

He's a local friend that fabs for a living, not actual 'schooling' per se. Thanks for the compliment, my welding definatley has room for improvement though.

 

[Shawn]

These are not the greatest. From what I have heard the "C" pattern is the best. that is what I use.

I use to you the "C" until I learned. Look how most of the others are posting the same welds I do. Greg's description is pretty much the same.

Like I have said in many other posts. Weld one up using the technique you feel most comfortable with and then cut it apart to see how much penetration you are getting. you can learn a great deal from looking inside your own weld.

To say that you weld one inconstant way is dumb. It is sometimes almost impossible to always do "C'" or "U's" or Circles. Given the area you need to weld you will use many different techniques.

Oh, and from what I have read, push and pull is one of the strongest welds IF you do it right.

 

[Shawn]

PS, if your welder is not set up right your welds will show it. Proper heat and speed makes a hug difference. I have also found out the hard way... Types/brands of wire can also make a difference. I always buy a good brand of wire.

 

[Tacoma]

This thread is making me itchy to rewire the garage.

 

[Ohms]

PS, if your welder is not set up right your welds will show it. Proper heat and speed makes a hug difference. I have also found out the hard way... Types/brands of wire can also make a difference. I always buy a good brand of wire.

X's eleventy billion. Shawn-What wire have you found that works the best?
Since we go through about eight rolls a week we kinda gotta keep cost down. I can't remeber the manu. but I do know its .30 or .25

 

[Tacoma]

so where are you? I'll be in SLC tomorrow, running around. Happy to stop by...

 

[Shawn]

X's eleventy billion. Shawn-What wire have you found that works the best?
Since we go through about eight rolls a week we kinda gotta keep cost down. I can't remeber the manu. but I do know its .30 or .25

Lincoln Superarc

 

[Ohms]

You tried Pinnacle????? And what welder?

 

[waynehartwig]

WAIT...A 'good' weld has each pass covering around fifty percent of the bead in front of it. Make sense? Im very particular on welding (Look at my liability) Our welds are constantly under scruntiny at Tuff Country. A Huge part of the equation is the settings on your welder!

I'm no master at welding, so I can't argue a point with you. :-\ I've seen your stuff, and it definately looks better than mine. And like you say, with your a$$ hanging out there a mile, you've gotta trust your doing it right!

Most of my welding has been on the farm (farm code! ), where looks don't matter, but functionality does. I mean who cares what it looks like when you are hard facing a ripper or? But from this I know that if you go back into your puddle, you drag other stuff in and contaminate the weld, so I was taught not to do that.

And I agree with you, where is the challenge in tack welding? The only time I use this method is when heat kills. Like body panels or etc.