How LONG are you??

[Kiel]

Nope. That 70% (or 75%) number was thrown out there by someone in a magazine article, it certainly isn't gospel. Build it.

I think I will probably somewhere around 36-44 inch links and see how it goes hopefully I can make the fronts the same length too unless I use a panhard

I think my rear uppers are 36", lowers 34" (my rear is not double triangulated, only single) and front lowers are 40" on 100" WB. The lowers are 2" .25" wall and uppers are 1.75" .120" wall. All of the joints are 2.5" johnny joints.

My rear needs to be longer, so I'll probably add (make new arms) about 2" to the uppers/lowers and move the as$ end out more.

Do I hit them on rocks? Not very much. I've been on a hand full of pretty extreme runs and I barely show signs of the paint being scratched on the rear arms, but not even touched on the fronts. My old suspension I hit them all the time. My rear lowers are higher than before - mounted above the axle center line and with 39 instead of 35" tires. The old suspension I bent the lowers a lot. Probably replaced them 6? times under warranty (RE rules!). The last set I had on there for a little while were the latest updates with cromo spuds and those didn't bend on me.

As for the length of the arms, I don't think it matters as much as their geometry to the related mounts and ground.

Your jeep does sit pretty high now too though buddy My links get slammed pretty hard quite often, but I'm pretty low

 

[gripguru]

I am building my rear suspension right now and have settled on 40"+ as the magic number. Ideally I would double triangulate, but I am going to run straight lowers and triangulated uppers. My lowers are going to mount well above the center line of the axle, perhaps even on the top of the tube, against most literature that I have read. I plan to have 7 inches of separation with the truss above my 14 bolt. I bring this up because like mentioned earlier, whether you drag the links or not all depends on the way that it is setup. My wheelbase will be 103-106".
link= ~40"
o====================|o/ frame mount
O axle tube

 

[waynehartwig]

Your jeep does sit pretty high now too though buddy My links get slammed pretty hard quite often, but I'm pretty low

It's not that tall... Remember the red Rubicon on the trail with us? His Rubicon is built just like mine was before the upgrade and his rear bumper is only 1" lower than mine (front is about 2", cuz of the rake and mine doesn't have it anymore). So the tires took me up 2", but the suspension dropped me down an inch. Then with the 1" body lift I'm only 2" taller at the hood than I was before. But my control arms are a lot higher than what they were before. I would say about 3" at the rear axle and probably 2" in the front.

 

[waynehartwig]

I am building my rear suspension right now and have settled on 40"+ as the magic number. Ideally I would double triangulate, but I am going to run straight lowers and triangulated uppers. My lowers are going to mount well above the center line of the axle, perhaps even on the top of the tube, against most literature that I have read. I plan to have 7 inches of separation with the truss above my 14 bolt. I bring this up because like mentioned earlier, whether you drag the links or not all depends on the way that it is setup. My wheelbase will be 103-106".
link= ~40"
o====================|o/ frame mount
O axle tube

If I was to do it over, I would have mounted the control arm mount on top of the axle, instead of at 0* to the pinion, which puts it about 20*. That alone would raise the clearance from the ground with it, and flatten it out better. A flatter lower control arm is better.... Look at the picture and you can see what I'm talking about. This picture is at 0*, but imagine if the mounts were on top of the axle...

 

[GOAT]

Currently: 100", 26" lower arms. 35" tires

Upcoming: 106" 30" lowers 40" tires

That magazine article Kiel posted was very helpful in my build. Learn as much as you can, get it as close as you can, and make everything adjustable to dial it in later.

 

[Kiel]

My truss is pretty tall and I plan to make the upeer link mount on top of it 2 hole adjustable. That way I can mount my lowers higher if needed and still keep at least 9-10 inches of seperation at the axle.

 

[gripguru]

If I was to do it over, I would have mounted the control arm mount on top of the axle, instead of at 0* to the pinion, which puts it about 20*. That alone would raise the clearance from the ground with it, and flatten it out better. A flatter lower control arm is better.... Look at the picture and you can see what I'm talking about. This picture is at 0*, but imagine if the mounts were on top of the axle...

Exactly - change those lower mounts up to the top of the tube is my plan. What kind of separation do you have right now? Looks like a bunch.

 

[waynehartwig]

I don't think it's all that much. Here is basically what I have. These numbers aren't accurate enough to cut from, but it will get you REAL close. I only used this as a guide myself.

 

[waynehartwig]

Something else, though, if you put the lower link ontop of the axle, it will give you less seperation and put a lot more of a load on the mounts as it will be more difficult from keeping the axle from twisting inside of the mounts. Also, if you don't need to be on top of the axle to keep the lowers flat, then doing it will increase your torque roll.

...So in all actuallity, I'm probably at the best place I could be? ...Who knows....

 

[gripguru]

My truss is pretty tall and I plan to make the upeer link mount on top of it 2 hole adjustable. That way I can mount my lowers higher if needed and still keep at least 9-10 inches of seperation at the axle.

9-10 inches in theory will be really easy on the components and your welds. I like it.

I wont have enough room for that much separation, I will be right around 7-8 inches (which isnt too bad they tell me )

 

[littlesolidkick]

have fun with the air shocks are you puting limit straps on cuz if not going down stuff is a rush

 

[Kiel]

have fun with the air shocks are you puting limit straps on cuz if not going down stuff is a rush

I run air shocks now so I know how they handle; mine has straps now. The new rig will hopefully just use winches front and rear