how many lift blocks needed for a samurai?

[airmanwilliams]

am wanting to put a small body lift on my samurai and plan to buy the blocks individually but dont know how many exactly.

Anyone know how many I need and at what hieghths I will run into problems like the fuel neck extension?

 

[Stephen]

Why are you doing a body lift? Why not save that money and put it into a suspension lift?

 

[airmanwilliams]

I have a 3"spring under right now just want an inch or two in the body.

 

[zukking01]

go with stock springs and do a spring over. That will give you 2" more and not bring the suck that a body lift does.

 

[airmanwilliams]

what problems exactly do body lifts cost? I would like to do a spring over if I had a welder or even if I could find a budget spring over kit.

 

[Chevycrew]

Just go count the number of body bolts, issues will be gas filler, fan shroud, shifters, etc.

 

[iamsparticus]

forget the body lift they suck, all kinds of problems, just do a spring over if you really need a welder you can borrow mine free of charge as long as you promise no body lift
PM me later

 

[airmanwilliams]

do you guys know what all is needed for a spring over, budget friendly? or where I can get pieces for it gradually? I would rather use my 3" springs just so I dont have to buy new ones.

 

[zukking01]

do you guys know what all is needed for a spring over, budget friendly? or where I can get pieces for it gradually? I would rather use my 3" springs just so I dont have to buy new ones.

On a samurai you will need

Spring perches. $40 for 4 at teraflex, I am sure they are cheeper elsewhere but that is where I get mine.

Brake lines, used. Front Geo metro lines will replace the fronts. Rears, use toyota rear line from body to axle. You will need 2 as the toyotas only have one per vehicle. These should run you about $10

Driveline spacer for rear at minimum and front also. I think the rear is 1.5 and the front is .75 or 1.25. They can be had on ebay for $20-40 bucks.

Steering fix. Cheepest is a z link. I made mine out of the factory link and used the front suspension dampner thing that goes from the axle to the body and back like a giant U for the center of the z link.

So
Perches $40
Brake lines $10
Rear D line spacer $40
Weld up z link $0
Welding wire $10
Drinks for help $25

Total $125
Not too bad.

 

[iamsparticus]

There you have it 125 bucks is only a couple trips to the plasma bank, i will help you out and the welder wire i have so no worries

 

[zukking01]

I think I have a rear driveline spacer in the garage. I would take $20 if you are comitted to lifting it. With sparticus help you will save on the wire and maybe some drink cost. you could easily get it done for under $100.

 

[airmanwilliams]

thank you for the help guys. after talking to the wife and seeing about trying to set a budget to try to save for the spring over I think a 1.5 shackle right now will be the only thing I will be able to do other than the body lift. would I need the spacers for a 1.5 shackle lift you think scott? I definately want to do a spring over in the future just not right now especially since I would probably need new tires and definately new shocks.

 

[zukking01]

You may need a small spacer in the rear because of the 3" lift springs already. A 1.2: lift shackle will give you 3/4" lift so the spline might be ok on the driveline but I dont know for sure.

 

[airmanwilliams]

not saying I really want to go this big on a shackle lift but if I got 3" shackles with the 3" spring under how big of spacers may I need? a buddy is actually wondering about this on his tintop he is working on and how to find out what size spacers are needed and I would like to know as well.

 

[Chevycrew]

Keep in mind the bigger the shackle, the more messed up the pinion angles and alignment will be. You can correct this with leaf spring shims.

I am a big fan of body lifts, if done right, and they are torqued properly. They also make bellhousing bolts easier to get to. Its a cheap lift.

 

[Mope]

As Chevycrew said, long shackles will end up causing more problems then they are worth. Your castor angle will change to the point you'll have death wobble, and it won't steer very well. Like he said, you can use shims to correct it, but by the time you buy those, you are on your way to just doing a spring over. With the budget situation you have right now, a small body lift may fit your bill better.
You might also be able to trade your 3" springs for some stock springs plus some cash to buy you the things you need for a SPOA lift if that's what your after.

 

[airmanwilliams]

thank you for the idea of selling them for everything but since its my daily driver I may have to either trade some of my stuff in the classifides for the spoa stuff or trade these on a weekend and get the stuff right away.

 

[Chevycrew]

If you know your not in the market for larger tires, why lift it?

 

[airmanwilliams]

I am just not real soon will get 31's by next summer.

 

[iamsparticus]

I say hold out for the spring over save a little and get all the info for driveline and such, It is never better to rush things or to spend money on bandaid fixs, take the time to do it right and you won't regrett it, trust me i have been there when it comes to no money and rushed upgrades