How to Disc Brake a D60 rear?

Brad J

Registered User
Location
Woods Cross, UT
I'm trying to finish up SOA on my scout but stumped on the brakes. The brakes are completly shot and prices seem really high since its out of a 69-71 IH truck. I paid $100 for 2 new wheel cylinders and it looks like I need to replace everything in there (brake shoes and spring tension cables(?)). I would like to just disc the rear to have disc's all around and make the master cylinder swap easier if not needed. I want an e-brake so do I just go pull everyting off of an Eldorado and is there a lot of modifing needed or is it almost a bolt on type of deal. I am really shying away from a line lock or an adjustable proportioning valve. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Brad J.
 

James K

NO, I'm always like this
Location
Taylorsville, Ut
are you wanting to just be able to bolt everything on and go? or fab what you need?

what bolt pattern is the axle?


caddy calipers are expense even if you have cores.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
The brackets for chevy calipers are cheap, and readily available around town. YOu do have to weld them on, though.
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
actually all you use from the eldorado is the calipers and like James said, they are pricey even with cores also I have heard several guys say they can't hardly get the e-brake to work...I would HIGHLY suggest using the calipers from Great Lakes Offroad (check ebay or PBB to get prices) if he makes them for your axle...I will find a pic of my rear with these brackets on them...they are very nice looking and bolt-on. You can do it for very cheap if you want to use weld on brackets, otherwise it will cost you a little for the brackets (Great Lakes are some of the least expensive I found while looking around)...
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
here are some pics of my setup...no e-brake but the eldorado calipers would swap right on...

Buggy%20(75).JPG


Buggy%20(74).JPG


Buggy%20(73).jpg


very easy to setup, takes all of an hour (including removal of old drums and install of new setup)
 

Brad J

Registered User
Location
Woods Cross, UT
Supergper said:
actually all you use from the eldorado is the calipers and like James said, they are pricey even with cores also I have heard several guys say they can't hardly get the e-brake to work...I would HIGHLY suggest using the calipers from Great Lakes Offroad (check ebay or PBB to get prices) if he makes them for your axle...I will find a pic of my rear with these brackets on them...they are very nice looking and bolt-on. You can do it for very cheap if you want to use weld on brackets, otherwise it will cost you a little for the brackets (Great Lakes are some of the least expensive I found while looking around)...

Thanks guys, you pointed me in the right direction. My axles are 8 lug and I'm looking for a bolt on and go. I don't trust my welding abilities on the important stuff yet. I will have to take some measurements of my axles and give Shawn a call @ Great Lakes Offroad. Do you remember how much you paid for the bracket, chevy calipers, and rotors? I may just go that way but I would like to at least try using the e-brake calipers. Original axle shafts are still used right? Are flex lines really needed? Are you guys using Line Locks and do they just lock up the rear end? Those pics sure look good.

Thanks, Brad J

Links for future surfers

http://www.greatlakeoffroad.com/

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=266536
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
I am only using hard lines. I do also have line lock that locks the rear, and it works well. I can lock the rear on pavement and drag it with the front. No, you don't have to do anything with your axle shafts. I'm using Chevy calipers though, not the eldorado ones with the e-brake.
 

Brad J

Registered User
Location
Woods Cross, UT
Thanks RockMonkey, Any idea what year of Caddy Eldorado cailpers to ask for at the parts store and how much they run. I'm thinking of giving it a try and if the e-brake wont hold then add a line lock.

Thanks, Brad J.
 

onetuff76

Guard Rail Tester
Location
Lehi
I bought a bolt on kit from a place out of WA called Blackbeards. Bolted right up no probs. Have yet to run the e-brake cables. Another option instead of using an e-brake cable would be to use line locks. I went with the cable option just so I'd have the back up incase of a hydraulic failure. Also when I researched it alot of guys were having problems with the solenoids for the linelocks overheating if they left them engaged for to long.
 

bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
RockMonkey said:
I am only using hard lines. .

I really think flex lines are manditory, The calipers have to slide every time the brakes are applied and have moved over quite a bit by the time the pads have worn out. Hard lines can move enough but after a while the may work harden and break. All that money into your rig and you cheaped out on $20 or less to do the brakes right?
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
on the lines...I had some stock rubber lines I was going to use from a 75 3/4T...they were like $20-$25 each...decided to return them and just use some stainless braided line from speedway...I am very happy with the way mine turned out. I will get some final pics and post them tonight or tomorrow night. I too am using cutting brakes (not a line lock though) and when I pull them (one lever for each wheel) I can drag my rear tires like Braden said...look to www.speedwaymotors.com for fittings and such.
 

James K

NO, I'm always like this
Location
Taylorsville, Ut
Brad J said:
Thanks RockMonkey, Any idea what year of Caddy Eldorado cailpers to ask for at the parts store and how much they run. I'm thinking of giving it a try and if the e-brake wont hold then add a line lock.

Thanks, Brad J.


I think the year on the calipers is '79. have them pull them and then have them pull a '79 chevy 1/2 ton caliper and compare them. They should be the same other then the lever sticking out on the caddy one.



If not I do have a pair of caddy calipers you can come look at to see what ya need.
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
here are some more pics of mine...
IMG_0423%20%28Medium%29.JPG


IMG_0424%20%28Medium%29.JPG


IMG_0426%20%28Medium%29.JPG



some people say that having too much flex line will cause you to have issues with stopping power because they flex too much...like I mentioned before I can stop just fine and even drag the rear (with it engaged) if I want to...plenty of stopping power...
 

Brad J

Registered User
Location
Woods Cross, UT
onetuff76 said:
I went with the cable option just so I'd have the back up incase of a hydraulic failure.

That is my reasoning also, The scout is 35 years old and still using the orig master cylinder as far as I know. I may end up using an early (late 60's) Corvette manual disc brake master cylinder for better stopping power. Its a bolt in upgrade when you've got all disc's on these early Scout's

bobdog said:
I really think flex lines are manditory, The calipers have to slide every time the brakes are applied and have moved over quite a bit by the time the pads have worn out. Hard lines can move enough but after a while the may work harden and break. All that money into your rig and you cheaped out on $20 or less to do the brakes right?

That's kind of what I thought.

Supergper said:
on the lines...I had some stock rubber lines I was going to use from a 75 3/4T...they were like $20-$25 each...decided to return them and just use some stainless braided line from speedway.

How much were they? They look nice.

James K said:
I think the year on the calipers is '79. have them pull them and then have them pull a '79 chevy 1/2 ton caliper and compare them. They should be the same other then the lever sticking out on the caddy one.

So just compare the 2 to see if that is the right year but then get the 3/4 ton ones? Is there a difference in size between the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton calipers?


Thanks, Brad J
 

James K

NO, I'm always like this
Location
Taylorsville, Ut
Brad J said:
So just compare the 2 to see if that is the right year but then get the 3/4 ton ones? Is there a difference in size between the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton calipers?


Thanks, Brad J


have them pull a '79 caddy rear caliper and compare it to a front caliper from a '79 chevy 4wd front caliper. the only difference should be the e-brake part sticking out of the caddy caliper. the 3/4 ton and 1/2 ton front calipers are dimensionally the same.

sorry if I wasn't clear earlier :D
 

BBowski82

What are you looking at?
Location
Haubstadt, In
bobdog said:
I really think flex lines are manditory, The calipers have to slide every time the brakes are applied and have moved over quite a bit by the time the pads have worn out. Hard lines can move enough but after a while the may work harden and break. All that money into your rig and you cheaped out on $20 or less to do the brakes right?

these calipers are solid mount....they don't slide with application. you need to use flex lines because, how else would you take the caliper off for service without crackin the hard line and having to bleed it every time??? ;) ;)
 
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