Hunt's Debadged RME TJ

Owners Name & City- Hunt, Carmel , NY

Make, Model & Year of Vehicle- Jeep, TJ 1997

Engine- 2003 5.3L LM7 from a truck, LS1 Oil Pan, ECU re-flashed for 325 HP and 375 Ft lbs of torque,
Sanderson Headers with 2.5” collectors and 3” exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, Aluminum radiator with 2 speed Taurus electric fan,

Transmission- TH 350 (recently rebuilt and resealed!) with full manual valve body & engine brake, Summit Racing 12” 2000 RPM stall converter, Art Carr shifter, Spal transmission cool, Advanced Adaptors, deep extra capacity aluminum transmission pan,

T-Case- Advanced AdaptorsAtlas II with 4.3 to 1 ratio, 32 spline outputs front and rear, Roark Fab Atlas mount

Axles- Rear- Dana 60 with 40 spline Mark Williams 1.75” shafts, 5.13 gears, spool and disc brakes, Tera HD diff. cover, Width=62”, 1.5” spacers at both wheels, TeraFlex axle bridge truss,
Front- Tera CRD60, Dodge Kingpin Knuckles with chromo shafts, 5.13 gears, ARB locker, 35 spline outers(not chromo) and Warn Premium hubs, crane diff cover, Width=64”, Full hydraulic steering with single-ended ram, PCS pump and Appleton power steering cooler/reservoir/filter, 83” wide from the outside of the tire to the outside of the tire,


Suspension- TeraFlex longarm LCG for an Unlimited Wrangler, Rear coil buckets have been moved back 11”, wheel base is 104”, 3” of suspension lift, 1” body lift under the tub but not under the radiator shell, TeraFlex Dual Rate S/T swaybar, BTF coil mounting kit, Custom from 3 link with the upper link built using lower components, TeraFlex Belly-Up 1/4” t-case skid plate,

Wheels and Tires- 17”x9” Cragar Soft 8 steel black wheels, 5 total, 3” back spacing, 6 on 5.5 lug pattern, Staun internal beadlocks @ 30 psi, 40x13.5x17 Maxxis Creepy Crawlers DOT compound running 6 psi rear and 8 psi in the front,

Winch- Warn M8000

Body Modifications and Protection- BTF Crusher Corner Comp Cut rear quarter panels with LED rear brake lights, BTF Rocker Protection, Highline hood, Ben Hank’s Racing custom front fender raised for more tire clearance, Custom Ben Hank’s Racing roll cage tied to the frame in 6 places, BTF front bumper with d-rings, BTF winch plate,

Favorite Trails- Hell’s Revenge and Hell’s Gate Moab, UT

Other-Summit Machine aluminum fairlead (I need to get a synthetic rope or switch to a roller fairlead), Orbial battery, Corbeau Ultra SS seats tied to the roll cage, RCI seat harnesses, Custom 15 gallon fuel cell behind the rear seat built by Ben at Alliance Metal Works in SLC with a Napa P5000 pump, Bestop Super Top with soft doors, Bestop Bikini Top, AutoMeter white face Hotrod style gauges,
 

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Lifelong Jeeper

Well-Known Member
Location
Murray
So what, geometrically, caused that guys front axel to hop like that. I've seen a lot of rear axels hop and understand the causes of it, but the front perplexes me. Radius arms? Upper control arms too low on the frame end?
 

Hunt

Active Member
Location
Carmel, NY
There are several things at fault on that Jeep. That jeep has quite a history. It was the test platform Clayton Offroad Manufacturing's very first 6" long arm kit. The install is probably 6-7 years old and in desperate need of a rebuild. All the Johnny Joints are shot, the shocks where blown, and the driver ripped the front truss off of it earlier in the day. It got a trail fix and the beating proceeded. The engine was running on 5 cylinders and it was a general miss. But it made for a hell of a show.
 

Hunt

Active Member
Location
Carmel, NY
I picked up my Currie drive flange kit today form Clayton Offroad. I liked this design because the cover is held in by the spiral retaining ring on the outside of the cap. With most kits I have seen the drive slug is held in by the spiral ring and then the cap bolts through to the slug. We will see how they hold up with the mud and crap out here.

Link:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product596.aspx?id=2188

I hope to be tearing the jeep down for the winter soon. That is if I don't trade it:freak:
 
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modus

New Member
hi hunt,
i like a lot the stand of your jeep.read all the story 5 times at least.
its seems a very well build rig with very good performance on the trails.
i started my new build and my concerm is mostly in the suspensions parts you used.
Suspension-
TeraFlex longarm LCG for an Unlimited Wrangler,
Rear coil buckets have been moved back 11”,
wheel base is 104”, 3” of suspension lift,
1” body lift under the tub but not under the radiator shell,
TeraFlex Dual Rate S/T swaybar,
BTF coil mounting kit,
Custom from 3 link with the upper link built using lower components, TeraFlex Belly-Up 1/4” t-case skid plate,
Fox remote revisor shocks with adjustable rebound controls,
Fox nitrogen bump stops,
well i am looking for some base measurments if you can handle that?
as bottom to the top of the windshield?,
actual whell base?,
you said its 104", 83” wide from the outside of the tire to the outside of the tire, axles Width=64”,
true tire size?,
down and up travel w/ what shock?, 12"? 14 " ? f/r
and also if there are any available pics from under the rig just to take a look from closer.


you will help a lot to make me decide if that tera lcg would be my choise too?
thanks in advnance
 

Hunt

Active Member
Location
Carmel, NY
hi hunt,
i like a lot the stand of your jeep.read all the story 5 times at least.
its seems a very well build rig with very good performance on the trails.
i started my new build and my concerm is mostly in the suspensions parts you used.
well i am looking for some base measurments if you can handle that?
as bottom to the top of the windshield?,
actual whell base?,true tire size?,
down and up travel w/ what shock?, 12"? 14 " ? f/r
and also if there are any available pics from under the rig just to take a look from closer.


you will help a lot to make me decide if that tera lcg would be my choise too?
thanks in advnance

I'll be glad to help where I can.

Greg originally built the jeep. It was the RME Jeep hence the name of my thread. Here is the link to his build thread:

http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?t=43586

And Greg's photo album:

http://www.rme4x4.com/gallery/v/TJbuild/

Between my thread and Greg's it should give you a ton of pictures to look through. If there is anything else you would like specifically I will try to help.

The Jeep has spent the entire winter in the trailer. After 10 feet of snow the area under the gooseneck made a convenient place to push snow. It's only in the last few day that I have been able to even start thinking about moving the trailer and getting the jeep out. I have literally not done a thing to it since I blew the hubs out of it last fall.

Actual tire sizes...
It had 40" Maxxis Creepy Crawlers on it. I have to admit that I liked the "look" of the jeep with those tires but the 39.5" BFG Krawlers perform way better out here on the east coast.

I have not run the windshield for over a year now. I still have it but you will have to wait until I get it out of it's hibernation before I can get any measurements.
 

modus

New Member
first off all thanks for your's quick response.
actually i know the story of the rig as i first read Greg's build thread. thats how i find your's and the rme foroum. the reason that draw my attension was the low stand with big tires above.

sorty reference of my plant's are
d60 f/r, (have the rear one. dynatrac prorock60 63.75" width)
37s inche tyres, ( have 37/13/15 ss boggers)
hiline's f/r, (done with that too. diy hiline's f/r)

as for the numbers i aim to....
100" - 102" wheel base ( plan to stretch the rear and a bit of the front too for clear the departure angle)
70" - 72" inches
bottom to the top of the windshield or the highest point of a custom cage,
10-12" travel shocks
coils ? i think some think like 4"
4" - 5 " of up travel ( i need at least 4 because we do have some speed bumbs )

what do you think of the above ?
can all these become true with an lcg suspension ? :D
actually i have to wait for your's
measurments :)
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
anything is possible if you want it badly enough. i have seen jeeps on 38's with 2 inches of lift that have 5 inches of uptravel in the rear and 4.5 inches up front. you have highlines, so you have no problem clearing the tires. your problem now is going to be that your axle and control arms are going to be buried in your floor. i know this isn't on this forum, but there is a killer yj that is almost exactly what you are looking to do with your jeep. here is a link to the build.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=495084

hope this helps.
 

Hunt

Active Member
Location
Carmel, NY
first off all thanks for your's quick response.
actually i know the story of the rig as i first read Greg's build thread. thats how i find your's and the rme foroum. the reason that draw my attension was the low stand with big tires above.

sorty reference of my plant's are
d60 f/r, (have the rear one. dynatrac prorock60 63.75" width)
37s inche tyres, ( have 37/13/15 ss boggers)
hiline's f/r, (done with that too. diy hiline's f/r)

as for the numbers i aim to....
100" - 102" wheel base ( plan to stretch the rear and a bit of the front too for clear the departure angle)
70" - 72" inches
bottom to the top of the windshield or the highest point of a custom cage,
10-12" travel shocks
coils ? i think some think like 4"
4" - 5 " of up travel ( i need at least 4 because we do have some speed bumbs )

what do you think of the above ?
can all these become true with an lcg suspension ? :D
actually i have to wait for your's
measurments :)


You should not have a problem at all with your numbers.

72" at the window seems about right. The rear door of my trailer is about 6'2". The A pillar goes in just fine but I have to suck it down just a touch to get the B pillar through.

My jeep have roughly 4" of up travel all the way around. With the 4" bump cans in it it would ride the cans and beat you to death. I shortened the bumps to about 1 3/4" and it rides much better. You just have to put a spacer tube inside the bumps. I wanted the longer ones incase someday I put the air shocks in and wouldn't have to re-buy bumps.

The jeep only have 10" shocks in it. Most people think it has way more in it but they certainly get the job done.

I think you need about a 2-3" coil to get the stance you are looking for. Especially if you are only running a 37" tire. If I where you I would look at kicking the front out a few more inches if you are going to run a full bumper like mine. I hang the front end of mine all the time. For yours I would tuck the rear up a little. Mine is back about 11". For yours maybe go about 9-10". With that and a smaller tire you can keep some of your "rear fender" behind the tire. That will keep Johnny Law off if you are running on the street. A full comp cut may get you in trouble.

I hope my rambling helps in some way.
 

modus

New Member
thanks for the numbers buddy.

lets talk a bit about parts.
about the tera's arms / bushings and joints ? any complain with those parts ?
i run into my last tj rubicon express long arm joints ( the only experience with joints in my wheeling life) and they were flexy and strong. no problem for four and half years. only complain was their bushing's. ended to custom made.
how do you like the tera's joint's and bushing's? do they use jj's into the lcg suspensions ?

i think the rear hi-clearence arms will help a lot for the numbers i aim to? do they help you too?
and last one i did a quick searce on tera's site but can't find the 3" lcg suspension system ? do you have a part num or link ?

man really sorry for the big hijack:) opinions from guys that have been there always help others....:cool: maybe its time for me to start a new thread call it slow..................build inspired from Hunt's and Greg's builds . hahaha:D


p.s.

rockchucker the link you point will sure help a lot! thanks man;)
 

Hunt

Active Member
Location
Carmel, NY
Carnage!

I am finally getting around to backing the jeep out of the trailer and doing some repairs. It's been since last OCTOBER since it's even seen daylight!:mad: Shame on me, I know.

Anyway repairs are underway and as usual a hour long job turns into an afternoon adventure. The Warn hub was so smashed in the spindle it had wedged it's self in there. All the cracks and chunks are what I pulled out with vice grips and picks.

The drive flanges are over due. I'll just start braking stub shafts now. :rofl:
 

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Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
I'm honestly surprised the Warn hubs lasted as long as they did! You're probably right, the stub shafts will be the next weak link. :eek:
 

Hunt

Active Member
Location
Carmel, NY
So I made two mostly broken hubs out of one very broken hub and Warn warrantied both of them. I figured it was worth a shot. I got two shinny new hubs in the mail today. Not a bad birthday present.
 

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RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
did anyone see the warn booth at EJS? looks like they have some Ultra-Premium hubs coming out in the next few months. The rep said they will be as strong as drive slugs, almost. I don't know if i believe that, but they dial is super easy to turn, as it is a 3 finger design over the 2 that the premiums are now.

not a bad b-day present!
 
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