Hunt's Debadged RME TJ

Hunt · Jun 13, 2009

These showed up on a classified listing and couldn't pass them up. 2.5" Fox 18" travel air shocks. They will make for a good winter's project. No sense in tearing down at the beginning of summer.

I also started plumbing the cutting brakes and decided that since I was going through all the effort I might as well put in two handles and have control of all four corners instead of just front and rear. That is of course I will if I go to a selectable locker in the rear, but I am kind of found of the spool right now.

When I got home form my business trip to Korea my dimple dies had finally showed up from Poly Performance. Better 3 months late then never.

Not much else for updates. I'll be back on the road for the next few weeks again so progress will be slow.

I Lean · Jun 13, 2009

Hunt said:
These showed up on a classified listing and couldn't pass them up. 2.5" Fox 18" travel air shocks. They will make for a good winter's project. No sense in tearing down at the beginning of summer.

Which end are those destined for?

Greg · Jun 13, 2009

IMO 18's are going to be very difficult to fit due to how low the TJ is. I had considered Air Shocks early in my build planning stages and was going to run 14's, if I did it. I opted to stick with standard shocks and coils, because they are cheap and work well.

Where are you planning on putting them, front or rear? Air shocks can be pretty picky about how they are mounted and create more handling problems than you'd expect. You may find that the TJ is more stable with the coils vs. air shocks. I'd hate to see you do all the fab work to get the air shocks in there and they decrease the capability of the TJ. You are aware of the KISS principle, right?

Hunt · Jun 13, 2009

I Lean said:
Which end are those destined for?

I was thinking the rear as that was what sparked my interest to begin with. I started looking for a set of longer shocks to get a little more travel out of the rear. I unbolted the shocks and flexed out the jeep when I was setting up the bump stops and found that the shocks where really limiting the rear. There is a lot more potential there before anything would bind up. I was looking at having to move the upper shock mounts to fit longer shock and as things snowballed I ended up with the 18" Fox's. I can thank Adam at Clayton's OffRoad for putting the idea in my head.
No plans are set in stone yet. I know I kind of put the cart before the horse but making things fit is what makes it fun.

Greg said:
IMO 18's are going to be very difficult to fit due to how low the TJ is. I had considered Air Shocks early in my build planning stages and was going to run 14's, if I did it. I opted to stick with standard shocks and coils, because they are cheap and work well.

Where are you planning on putting them, front or rear? Air shocks can be pretty picky about how they are mounted and create more handling problems than you'd expect. You may find that the TJ is more stable with the coils vs. air shocks. I'd hate to see you do all the fab work to get the air shocks in there and they decrease the capability of the TJ. You are aware of the KISS principle, right?

The days of the low rider are over. I'm planing on tuning it into a mud bog Jeep. The Fox's will help get to that sky high stance I am looking for. It will fit in better out here on the east coast.

I'll be sure to do all my research before the torch touches the jeep.

I'm kidding about the mud bogger by the way.

I got a killer deal on them and if I need to go a little smaller they will make good bartering material. Thanks for looking out for me.

Hunt · Jun 25, 2009

I just finished bleeding the cutting brakes. I am semi pleased with my first attempt at brake lines. Some of the lines that didn't turn out quite the way I wanted I will redo. But for now they work, I am trying to get ready to play this weekend. There is a little over 60 feet of line to all four corners and two lines from the master cylinder to the handles between the seats. I also did a proportioning valve and line lock (for parking brake) for the rear and a new light switch in the front line. Tomorrow with be the a test drive and stop.

Hunt · Jun 29, 2009

Pictures from the group this weekend at Rausch Creek.

http://picasaweb.google.com/toyota327/RC62809#

http://picasaweb.google.com/jealosz/June28th#

Videos of mine at the top of "Bad Idea"

http://picasaweb.google.com/toyota327/RC62809#5352529060160938610

http://picasaweb.google.com/toyota327/RC62809#5352528698903104034

Enjoy!

Hunt · Jul 2, 2009

This was the source of the transmission leak. I looked like the bolts that held the adapter to the back of the tranny came loose and broke a chunk out of the tranny. I fixed this a while ago but realized I had never post pictures of it. I ended up having to get a new tranny case and I just swapped over the internals.

waynehartwig · Jul 6, 2009

Hunt said:
This was the source of the transmission leak. I looked like the bolts that held the adapter to the back of the tranny came loose and broke a chunk out of the tranny. I fixed this a while ago but realized I had never post pictures of it. I ended up having to get a new tranny case and I just swapped over the internals.

Mine did that too. Luckily it never busted like that. I took mine all apart, cleaned it up and put it back together with red loctite.

Hunt · Jul 6, 2009

The latest project has been getting all the necessary info together to build a 40 spline ARB locker for the rear. ARB does not build a 40 spline and has no plans to do so in the near future. I posted up a question on PBB because I knew there were people that had done it. I have had a ton of response. I have talked with ARB techs, Sandy Cone of Cone Industries (built Camo’s axles), Mark Williams tech guys, Tim Lund (TechTim) of Wild West Fab and several other people about doing this. Tim is the one that has been building these units and is going to have a quote to me next week once his new batch of gears gets back from the EDM shop.

The Mark Williams axles use the standard ASME 45 degree pressure angle with a major diameter of 1.708”. Tim has designed the program in Solid Works to cut the gears on the EDM machine. Tim is also going to the required machine work on the ARB case to clear the shafts. He also goes through the lockers and checks for any kind of burs or flaws. The units are “custom” so he wants to make sure they are as good as they can be when they leave his shop.

I’m so excited. It’s going to be awesome! I'll keep you updated.

Hunt · Jul 10, 2009

I finally got around to dimple die the hood like I said I was going to. I did several test panels and ended up doing what you see. The only thing I might have changed is I think I could have spaced them out a little more. The bottom lips of the holes are level with the lip of the hoop. I’ll have to get a few shots from farther back but it adds to the slopped hood visual effect.

Hunt · Jul 22, 2009

Couple of updates:

Tim Lund got back to me with a quote on building the 40 spline ARB. I am moving forward with the project. It should be about 4 weeks before I see the locker.
I am in the process of making the Jeep’s windshield removable. I wanted to be able to remove the window frame but keep the lower tub mounted bracket with the door hinge. So I ground the heads off the window frame hinge pins and drove the pins out. Then just replaced the pins with bolts.
The engine seems to be running better after replacing all the exhaust gaskets. The other day it thru a P0135 OBDII code. The code indicates a bad heater circuit on the front driver’s side O2 sensor. I tested, then replaces the O2 sensor and the cleared the code. It has not returned but I have not gotten a chance to really get it out and run it. The saga continues.
Rausch Creek off road park is doing a WeRock style competition on August 22 for the locals. I’m entered up. It should prove to be a real test for me. I’ve never done a competition like this and I’m thrown in with some tough competitors in class 3.
What does everyone think about supercharging the Jeep? I have a Magnuson MP112 that was destine for another project but I’m starting to think it would be cool under the hood (yes I have measured and it will fit). It has a liquid to air intercooler and the Jeep runs cool to begin with so I don’t think heat will be a problem. Another possible winter project.

Tacoma · Jul 22, 2009

I like the idea of supercharging anything.

Might be helpful out there in the muck, too.

Hunt · Jul 23, 2009

I had to pop the cover on the rear diff to gather the part number to do my ARB swap.

After cross referencing the part numbers I found it very interesting. According to Richmond's site it a Street Gear 5.38 ratio for 4.46 and numerically higher carriers. Ring gear number 82-7324-1. Pinion number 82-8324-1. Set number 69-0146-1. I found it interesting because I thought I had 5.13 gear and actually have 5.38s.

Most of this info is for myself, so I can reference it later.

Greg · Jul 23, 2009

Hunt said:
I had to pop the cover on the rear diff to gather the part number to do my ARB swap.

After cross referencing the part numbers I found it very interesting. According to Richmond's site it a Street Gear 5.38 ratio for 4.46 and numerically higher carriers. Ring gear number 82-7324-1. Pinion number 82-8324-1. Set number 69-0146-1. I found it interesting because I thought I had 5.13 gear and actually have 5.38s.

Most of this info is for myself, so I can reference it later.

:wtf: Really? I bought the rear end used and was told it was 5.13's. Have you counted the on the ring & pinion to check the gear ratio?

The front has 5.13's (I know, I bought them), if the rear gears are actually 5.38's then you should change one of them out for a matching set. That will put quite a bind on the t-case. I don't think it ever felt like it was binding, so I'll be interested to hear if the rear is actually 5.38's or not.

Hunt · Jul 23, 2009

The rear is every bit of 5.38. 43 teeth on the ring 8 on the pinion = 5.375. I just pulled the cover off the front and verify it is 5.13. I was praying it was just a typo or transposed number in your build. This sucks. I can't believe you didn't verify the numbers. It looks like I'm buying a gear set too now.

Greg · Jul 23, 2009

Hunt said:
The rear is every bit of 5.38. 43 teeth on the ring 8 on the pinion = 5.375. I just pulled the cover off the front and verify it is 5.13. I was praying it was just a typo or transposed number in your build. This sucks. I can't believe you didn't verify the numbers. It looks like I'm buying a gear set too now.

Why would I verify the gear ratio if I were told they were 5.13's when I bought the axle?? I had no reason to doubt the seller, everything else about the axle was right on. Sorry about the trouble, but I don't know what else to tell you.

Hunt · Jul 24, 2009

The front gears are in great shape. The rears are pretty beat up so I ordered a set of 5.13s for the rear. I’ll do it all together when I put the ARB in.

Herzog · Jul 24, 2009

Man, that's crazy... makes you want to always double check the gears when you buy an axle. Greg - maybe that was the secret reason that damn jeep climbed every freaking thing you pointed it at.

ChestonScout · Jul 25, 2009

I was going to say.......the Jeep has been wheeled and wheeled hard. If there is no damage yet......whats the big deal? Run it! But if the gears are bad you might as well swap them. Especially changing carriers anyway

Hunt · Jul 27, 2009

I put together a complete (matching wheel, Staun, and tire) spare. I used the tire machine at a buddy's shop then rolled it into the show room for a quick photo op. The picture shows my 40”, a 35” and 31”. The 35” and 31” tires were on little plastic stands that keep them from rolling around and were about a half inch tall. The 40” spare weighted in at 147.5 lbs!

Hunt's Debadged RME TJ

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