Hunt's Debadged RME TJ

Owners Name & City- Hunt, Carmel , NY

Make, Model & Year of Vehicle- Jeep, TJ 1997

Engine- 2003 5.3L LM7 from a truck, LS1 Oil Pan, ECU re-flashed for 325 HP and 375 Ft lbs of torque, Sanderson Headers with 2.5” collectors and 3” exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, Aluminum radiator with 2 speed Taurus electric fan,

Transmission- TH 350 (recently rebuilt and resealed!) with full manual valve body & engine brake, Summit Racing 12” 2000 RPM stall converter, Art Carr shifter, Spal transmission cool, Advanced Adaptors, deep extra capacity aluminum transmission pan,

T-Case- Advanced AdaptorsAtlas II with 4.3 to 1 ratio, 32 spline outputs front and rear, Roark Fab Atlas mount

Axles- Rear- Dana 60 with 40 spline Mark Williams 1.75” shafts, 5.13 gears, spool and disc brakes, Tera HD diff. cover, Width=62”, 1.5” spacers at both wheels, TeraFlex axle bridge truss,
Front- Tera CRD60, Dodge Kingpin Knuckles with chromo shafts, 5.13 gears, ARB locker, 35 spline outers(not chromo) and Warn Premium hubs, crane diff cover, Width=64”, Full hydraulic steering with single-ended ram, PCS pump and Appleton power steering cooler/reservoir/filter, 83” wide from the outside of the tire to the outside of the tire,


Suspension- TeraFlex longarm LCG for an Unlimited Wrangler, Rear coil buckets have been moved back 11”, wheel base is 104”, 3” of suspension lift, 1” body lift under the tub but not under the radiator shell, TeraFlex Dual Rate S/T swaybar, BTF coil mounting kit, Custom from 3 link with the upper link built using lower components, TeraFlex Belly-Up 1/4” t-case skid plate,

Wheels and Tires- 17”x9” Cragar Soft 8 steel black wheels, 5 total, 3” back spacing, 6 on 5.5 lug pattern, Staun internal beadlocks @ 30 psi, 40x13.5x17 Maxxis Creepy Crawlers DOT compound running 6 psi rear and 8 psi in the front,

Winch- Warn M8000

Body Modifications and Protection- BTF Crusher Corner Comp Cut rear quarter panels with LED rear brake lights, BTF Rocker Protection, Highline hood, Ben Hank’s Racing custom front fender raised for more tire clearance, Custom Ben Hank’s Racing roll cage tied to the frame in 6 places, BTF front bumper with d-rings, BTF winch plate,

Favorite Trails- Hell’s Revenge and Hell’s Gate Moab, UT

Other-Summit Machine aluminum fairlead (I need to get a synthetic rope or switch to a roller fairlead), Orbial battery, Corbeau Ultra SS seats tied to the roll cage, RCI seat harnesses, Custom 15 gallon fuel cell behind the rear seat built by Ben at Alliance Metal Works in SLC with a Napa P5000 pump, Bestop Super Top with soft doors, Bestop Bikini Top, AutoMeter white face Hotrod style gauges,

 

[waynehartwig]

Can't wait to hear that thing running with the supercharger! When do you expect to fire it up Clayton?

x2
Video it and YouTube that!

 

[Hunt]

If I can get the oil I should have it fired up tonight. It will not run very well until I get it tuned.

I’ve been doing a lot of other little things along the way while waiting for parts. The lower front heims needed rebuilt and I rerouted the radiator hoses so the flow is now correct. There are a few things still to finish up. I don’t have 220V to run my welder at my house (renting) so I have to load it up and take it to a friends shop to do any weld work. The inter cooler reservoir is just zip tied in place. I need to weld the bracket to the inner fender still. I also need to weld in an extra O2 bung in for the tuner to use.

I’ve always thought I should have better brakes than I do. Even after swapping in the Dodge 1 ton master cylinder. During disassembly I removed the vacuum line for the brake booster from the engine first. Then when I undid the hose clamp and pulled the hose off the booster the booster sucked in a bunch of air. With the one end of the vacuum line open the can was still under a vacuum. Obviously the line had a clog in it. I used a little compressed air and blew the line out to find a ball of electrical tape down in it. I am excited to see what having the line clear does for my brakes. Hopefully I don’t need to ad a vacuum pump because of the supercharger.

 

[waynehartwig]

If I can get the oil I should have it fired up tonight. It will not run very well until I get it tuned.

I’ve been doing a lot of other little things along the way while waiting for parts. The lower front heims needed rebuilt and I rerouted the radiator hoses so the flow is now correct. There are a few things still to finish up. I don’t have 220V to run my welder at my house (renting) so I have to load it up and take it to a friends shop to do any weld work. The inter cooler reservoir is just zip tied in place. I need to weld the bracket to the inner fender still. I also need to weld in an extra O2 bung in for the tuner to use.

I’ve always thought I should have better brakes than I do. Even after swapping in the Dodge 1 ton master cylinder. During disassembly I removed the vacuum line for the brake booster from the engine first. Then when I undid the hose clamp and pulled the hose off the booster the booster sucked in a bunch of air. With the one end of the vacuum line open the can was still under a vacuum. Obviously the line had a clog in it. I used a little compressed air and blew the line out to find a ball of electrical tape down in it. I am excited to see what having the line clear does for my brakes. Hopefully I don’t need to ad a vacuum pump because of the supercharger.

Back in my turbo days, I had one way check valves on all of my vacuum operated accesssories and that worked out pretty well.

Just thinking out loud here... But shouldn't you still have vacuum just under your throttle body, before the supercharger? So technically if you made a 'throttle body spacer' with a couple of ports on it... ...right?

 

[Hunt]

It's alive!

She runs and is going to be one bad mofo.

It's already throwing rich codes on both banks so I did not run it around MUCH. It's better rich than lean. No other codes are coming up. No leaks and everything looks awesome. I am going to call the dyno shop tomorrow and schedule some tuning time.

 

[LT.]

I can't wait to hear that sucker.

LT.

 

[Hunt]

Headed to the dyno shop tomorrow for tuning. Videos and dyno numbers to follow.

 

[I Lean]

Headed to the dyno shop tomorrow for tuning. Videos and dyno numbers to follow.

:greg::greg:

 

[Greg]

Wohoo!! Looking forward to the video and numbers!

 

[Hunt]

The finial numbers are in.

235.6 Hp and 321.2 lb-ft of torque.
Base was 131.8 Hp and 184.9 lb-ft.

That’s 103.8 Hp and 136.3 lb-ft gained.

The videos are just raw footage with no editing.

Gets interesting at about 53 sec.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65iOw4iHrgA


Gets interesting at about 17 sec and 1.03 min,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiVvjr3EprY


Gets interesting at about 1.45 min.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m28MJSXikvI


Yes that is the supercharger you hear screaming not the power steering pump! The hardest/longest pull showed the rear wheels spinning 160 MPH!

Some interesting lessons learned:

1. There is virtually zero intake tube. The filter attaches directly to the MAF sensor so the fan from the radiator and the fan on the tranny cooler were really screwing with the sensor. We rolled a sheet of cardboard around the filter to shield it and it made a huge difference. I’ll have to fab up n aluminum shield for it.

2. The driver’s side exhaust tube runs around the front of the motor and meets the passengers side tube right about where the engine and tranny mate up. The passenger’s side O2 senor is getting a turbulent flow from the driver’s side and is trying to constantly adjust so it throws it’s self into a constant loop of catch up and over compensate. It really screws with the system. The tuner made that O2 sensor a pulse reading type instead of a cumulative reading style and it seemed to help. I need to rework the exhaust a little to make where the two sides merge into one pipe about 18 inches from the passenger side sensor.

3. It’s pumping WAY more boost than it really needs at high RPMs. As in like 13.1 PSI!!! The big truck lower pulley really makes that thing scream. It’s tuned to be relatively safe for now but Ted was saying we could lower the boost and put more timing into it and we should get similar hp and torque numbers.

4. The belt already likes walk off the tensioner pulley. Ted was telling me there was and update to this kit because under high loads the bracket would flex and allow the belt to walk. We agreed that with 13 psi it justified adding the extra support bracket. Its on order.

I’ll scan the print outs tomorrow and post them up. More to follow; just wanted to update everyone!!!

 

[Jesser04]

13 pounds on a supercharger 
isn't that alot? I know my step dad is running 7 pounds on his boat and has smaller pulleys but doesn't want to run them on pump gas.

 

[waynehartwig]

Dang! 13lbs!?? On a stock motor? I'd fix that And of course that means build the motor up, not take away boost

But I was hoping to see higher numbers though. Did you put in bigger injectors? IMO your missing about 100 horse for some reason? Maybe cuz it's a big, bad, Jeep? The before numbers just seem really really low, causing your after numbers to be low as well. The difference betweem them I'll agree with, but I think it could be a lot better.

 

[LT.]

The finial numbers are in.
235.6 Hp and 321.2 lb-ft of torque.
Base was 131.8 Hp and 184.9 lb-ft.

That’s 103.8 Hp and 136.3 lb-ft gained.

I agree with waynehartwig here as well. I am going to guess that the numbers are somewhat compermised by the large tires. Also, are these numbers corrected for sea level by any chance? Your gain is about what I was expecting but I was really expecting more on the base line. I really like the way your rig raises up in the front during the dyno pulls. Wicked.

LT.

 

[waynehartwig]

The finial numbers are in.
235.6 Hp and 321.2 lb-ft of torque.
Base was 131.8 Hp and 184.9 lb-ft.

That’s 103.8 Hp and 136.3 lb-ft gained.

I agree with waynehartwig here as well. I am going to guess that the numbers are somewhat compermised by the large tires. Also, are these numbers corrected for sea level by any chance? Your gain is about what I was expecting but I was really expecting more on the base line. I really like the way your rig raises up in the front during the dyno pulls. Wicked.

LT.

Exactly! And that's another thing. THe way the front end lifts, it's got to be laying down more than those numbers.

But now I have a question: When you say 'base' was that before the supercharger? Or after the supercharger and before tuning? Then the after is supercharger and tune? But even then, with a stock motor, your gearing and 13 lbs of boost, you should really be up in the 450+ numbers, IMO.

I'd be real interested in seeing your injector duty cycle and air fuel ratio on a full hard pull. I mean I'd like to see other stuff, but....

That 07 Silverado in the link I posted earlier is running the same? supercharger with 5 lbs of boost and 365/376 tq/hp numbers.

 

[Hunt]

The numbers are right on. A buggy putting down 240hp at the wheels is about a 450hp motor at the crank. Trying to compare buggy dyno sheets and a standard truck is like comparing apples to oranges. If I was not trying to spin 40” tires mounted on steel wheels with Stauns in them (152lbs each), an ARB, 40 spline axles and a transfer case I would compare pretty well to a ½ ton, 2 wheel drive truck with an open diff on 29 inch tires. There are so many way to inflate dyno numbers and all the machines are a little different. The dyno is a tuning tool and nothing more. It measures torque and calculates hp.

The chassis dyno has a real bad way of making boys out of men. Don’t believe me? Put you rig on the rollers and check your ego at the door.

The base numbers are from before the supercharger install. The pulleys sizes will be changed up to get the boost into a more reasonable range. When we back the boost off, we will get lower intake air temps and can add the timing back into it. By doing so we should end up with very similar power numbers.

 

[Corban_White]

Thank you!!! I'm glad to see someone who understands. The numbers are almost meaningless, it is the difference between them that matters. Many factors can cause them to be "low" or "high". The dyno is most useful because it allows you to put a determined load on the vehicle in a stationary position-allowing for tuning without having to go drive up the canyon every time you make an adjustment.

 

[LT.]

The way the front end lifted made me question the numbers was all. I tried to figure in the larger tires but, did not imagine that they weighed as much as they did. Sorry about that. The jeep is a running machine that I really liked seeing on the rollers. I am still curious as if the numbers were not corrected for sea level. I love the direction you are taking with the jeep and encourage you to keep making it your own version. Thanks and keep the updates coming.

LT.

 

[waynehartwig]

I understand the whole dyno process. All I'm saying is that I woudl have expected a lot higher of a baseline, which woudl have been a much higher overall. The difference I completely agree with.

After I get my front end put back together, I'll get mine on the dyno. Not because of this thread, but because I'm curious and since I'm selling tunes there are some guys that want to see.

Like LT said, I like the updates and the rig. I'm still very excited about the supercharger and have interest in seeing how it works out with your rig on the trail and etc. I may go that way on mine instead of upping the CI's....

 

[Hunt]

I sold my 40" Creepy Crawlers tonight but my BFG red label Krawlers have not come in yet. I went down to the local offroad shop and mounted up a set of practically bald 33's on my rims for now to move the Jeep around. It looks absolutely ridiculous. It sure hauls butt, or it would if I could get it to hook up. Stay tuned for a smoke show. I plan on burning these up once the reds come in.

 

[waynehartwig]

I sold my 40" Creepy Crawlers tonight but my BFG red label Krawlers have not come in yet. I went down to the local offroad shop and mounted up a set of practically bald 33's on my rims for now to move the Jeep around. It looks absolutely ridiculous. It sure hauls butt, or it would if I could get it to hook up. Stay tuned for a smoke show. I plan on burning these up once the reds come in.

Pictures And absolutely can't wait to see the burnout!!! You gonna make them pop? :greg:

 

[Hunt]

Nearly a year ago on the first trip on the east coast with the Jeep I pretty much killed the rear shocks. No bump stops and the upper mounts where a little low and trying to force the shaft through the bottom of the shock body. It ate them up pretty bad. I have since added nitrogen bumps all around. I decided it was time for a new set of shocks. I am not ready to do the long air shocks. May never put them on this rig. So I decided to get a nice set of 10” Fox remote reservoirs with the adjustable compression dampeners. I think a good set of shocks will do a tremendous amount for this Jeep.

I am like a giddy little kid. The next trip will be a totally new vehicle once again. I have not really had the jeep out since completing the supercharger, rear ARB, the red label stickies, and now some serious shocks.