Hunt's other time and money pit

Owners Name & City- Hunt, Carmel , NY

Make, Model & Year of Vehicle- Yamaha Rhino 2006

Engine- 760 Weller Racing motor, Dragon Fire head, Mikuni 45mm carb, AFE intake, FMF powercore exhasut, Fuel Safe 12 fuel cell, Remote Fill, PWR Race radiator, PWR oil cooler,Polished overflow tank, Aeromotive JD pulse fuel pump, -6 Edlebrock in line fuel filter

Transmission- Bronco clutch

Front- Front Brembo brakes

Rear- Rear Gear one centerboard hubs w/ disc brakes

Axles-
Gorilla axles

Suspension-
SDHQ custom suspension, boxed upper and lower chromoly arms, Full tig welded chromoly chassis, double stitch tig welds, Rear 2.5" Fox internal by-pass / dual rate coilover shocks, Front 2.0" Fox dual rate coilover / air shocks with All German Motorsports sliders, Rear Sway Bar, Limit Straps, Gear one steering rack, SDHQ tie rods, SDHQ custom chain steering

Wheels and Tires-
OMF beadlocks w/ inner bead supports with BFG 27x8.50r 14, OMF beadlocks with Maxxis Bighorn 2 14

Winch- Warn XT40 with 50' of 7/32" synthetic line, in-cab and wireless remotes

Other-
Beard window nets, Beard extra wide extra tall suspension race seats, Fire extinguisher and mount

Electronics-
Racer x race radio
Rear chase lights, BITD, SNORE, SCORE legal
Forced air
Lowrance Baja 540 GPS
Autometer Gauges
Momo Steering wheel
Light bar mount with 2 11" Vision X Double Stack Evo Prime 40 degree and 1 17" Double Stack Evo Prime 20 degree
HID headlight replacements
 
I've been racking my brain trying to figure out how to eliminate the plastic fuel line between the fuel injectors. I wanted to make the entire system -AN for safety and ease of working on it. The last part is was the fuel rails. I found a guy to make these up and they are perfect.
 

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The fuel system parts are starting to come together. I have a small fortune on that table and still have to get line and ends.:( There are a few other pieces ot pictured.

This will be the last update on the projects for a while. I am headed over seas for 2 12 week tours (gone 12, back 2, gone for another 12) soon. :-\
 

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Trying to just put some thoughts on paper as far as the upcoming requirements to get my Rotax/Rhino project rolling. Lots of work to do and the best way to keep form forgetting anything to is to write it down. So here goes. Blue for things I have to make still, Red to things I need to buy still, Black for standard work.

Mount pre filter
Mount fuel pump
Mount post filter
Make regulator mount
Mount regulator
Install fuel pressure gauge
Build fuel lines
Wire fuel pump
Make surge tank mount
Mount surge tank

Make ECU mount
Mount ECU
Make Monster Box mount
Mount Monster Box

Make dash mounts
Modify dash
Mount dash
Install oil pressure gauge
Install coolant temp gauge

Pair engine to trans
Install clutch/belt
Mount engine combo
Wire engine
Mount Can-am gauge pod
Make engine cover
Make clutch cover and cooling ducts
Make air filter box
Install oil cooler conversion
Install oil cooler fan
Pump oil cooler
Install snowmobile oil fill tube/dip stick

Make exhaust
Install O2 sensor bungs
Install Thermocouple bungs
Wrap exhaust

Make shifter
Make front and rear drive shafts

Oh and I remembered I have a full Nitrous Express wet system form my old AHDRA drag bike sitting on a shelf that would go nicely on this toy. Maybe. We will have to wait so see about that one.
 
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Wow, quite a list you have there. It looks like most of what you need is just time home to start checking off items on the list. Are you home for a while now?

LT.


I am still in South Korea and will not be home for another 3 weeks. There will be another 6 week trip over here before the end of the year. Just not sure when that one will start. Yeah I just need some garage time to get this thing knocked out. I need some time to measure out, design and cut a bunch of stuff on my Torchmate table. Not a whole lot left to purchase. Odds and ends kind of things. Most of the major components are sitting on my living room floor.
 
I have been thinking a lot about how to modify my engine mounts. I have the Rotax Your Rhino engine conversion kit; which is a big plate with the engine mounts welded to it. I have cut out my stock floor pan and the RYR plate would bolt in form the top onto factory frame rails. Well I don't have all factory frame rails so I have to slightly modify the plate mounts anyways.

My engine guy suggested I use sold motor mount inserts at the engine and trans. What I am thinking of doing is making the RYR engine plate bolt in and drop out the bottom of the car. I got to thinking about the way some import cars are. The engine and trans all drop out the bottom of the car all while still bolted together. The engine/trans/clutch is a bear to wrestle through the window opening of the race car. Again on a factory Rhino this really would not be a problem because it is so wide open. I think it would make installing and removal a lot easier and faster. Everything would stay bolted together and all I would have to do is disconnect fluid and electrical lines, drive shafts and exhaust.

I'd use the engine hoist to pick of the front or rear car and use a floor jack/s to move the engine plate out.

I am trying to come up with any disadvantages of doing it this way. Maybe a strength issue. But I think with the proper number and size mounts it would me fine.

Some over ideas I have been working on is how to do the exhaust and wiring.

The quad has a 4x4 switch that engages the front drive shaft at the trans. But the engine will be going in the car backwards as compared to the quad. Also the Rhino has a switch to engage the front locker so I need to figure out how to make it all work together yet separately.

A lot of UTV and quads use springs to hold the exhaust together. Seems like a lot of possibilities of leaks and problems with a fuel injected system. I know I need some flex points and maybe go to using some of those v-bans for the connections points. I was planning on wrapping them but might have them ceramic coated. Might be worth a little extra power on my mouse motor. Maybe not enough to justify the cost.

Just thinking out load again. A little less than 2 weeks left here in Korea before the mayhem begins.

 
This thing is freakin awesome, I'm excited to see what a 100hp motor does in that chassis! What's the weight with the driver, about 850-900lbs??
lol, try again. A stock Rhino weighs in at 1200lbs. (wet weight, no driver or gear) With all the real steel he's got on there, I'm sure it's way more than stock.
 
Parts are starting to trickle in. My motor is appearently still a few weeks out. :mad:

I did find some pictures of the car just after I got back form KOH. Not much to look at but it gives you an idea of the dust out there.


Nice rig, looks like an expensive pile of parts, where does the Banjo go and what does it do?:laughing:
 
I got a few things assembled and fabed up on the motor before I left of Korea again. Just thought I would throw up a few shots.
 

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Exhaust is fully welded and ready for wrap. Also built a motor/trans reinforcement plate. The CanAm motors like to pull themselves away form the trans and tear things up.

Installed some big flood lights on the trailer for some night wrenching and general hanging out after wheeling/racing. The trailer had the AC unit but no roof vents so I installed two vents with the snow guards. Front and rear highway vents went in as well. These help push air through the trail when it is going down the road. Now it will at least air out a little and not hold moisture.

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Nice, how does it run with all the new parts?

It's going to be a wild ride once we get some seat time and tuning. We are really looking to make the start line and finish line this year. Next year we will push it but with a very new car the plan is play it safe. Of course that could all change.

Here is a picture of my car next to my brother's Samurai. It puts some prospective on the size of the Rhino.
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