General Tech Hydro Assist ???'s

grandmaster

Let the build Re-begin
Location
St. George, Utah
Hello all: been a while since I started a new thread but it has come to that point where I have a question. I have searched a few different forums and a few sites through google.

Last willing trip i snapped my steering box from my "frame" on my grand. I got a "new" steering box and figured I would port it while it was out so when I was ready for hydro assist I would be set. Well I found a few options of how I can do it for cheap so I am thinking i can just do it all at once :)

First off I need to let you know I am running the stock Dana 30 front on 33" tires w/beadlocks at about 8psi. It does get hard to turn when I'm not moving or on the rocks or solid pavement. I know the Dana 30 isn't the best axle for any application. I am aware that i could break a knuckle or something else by going to hydro assist. I am going to hydro assist to take some stress away from the "frame" and steering box itself. Although I will be making a steering box brace at the same time just to be safe.

So my question is. What is the most popular size or recommended size I should use for the hydraulic lines running to the ram? I've seen 3/8" to be the most popular and most responsive for steering? But I have also seen 1/4". Next will I be fine with a 1.5-2" bore 8" stroke and .75-1" shaft?? Next question being the most important as i have no information on it at all. When mounting the ram what is the best way to do this? Do you turn the wheels all the way to the right and mount the ram and full compression? Or do you leave a little bit of room? Obviously this can be done vise versa by turnig it all the way to the left at full extenstion. I'm just trying to figure out all the problems i'm going to run into before I decide to tackle this. Sorry if it's a dumb question. Thanks in advance for responses.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
With stock steering, you'll only need about 6.75" of ram stroke. (can use a longer one, but it makes it harder to fit) You definitely want a 1.5" bore. Either size lines will be fine, with the 1/4" being smaller and more flexible, so easier to route. The cost between the two won't be huge though, so there really isn't a big reason not to go with 3/8".

Mount the ram by doing both the things you said--you'll be very limited to where you can mount the ram at the axle, so tack it there first. Then, locate the spot on the tie rod or drag link by turning the wheels all the way to full lock right, move the ram to that position (either full compression or full extension) and make a mark. Then go to full lock left, move the ram to the other extreme, and make another mark. Then mount the ram between the two marks.
 

grandmaster

Let the build Re-begin
Location
St. George, Utah
Thanks for the reply, it makes a bit more sense now. Maybe I am overthinking it too much. So i can get a ram with either 6" stroke or 8" stroke. The 8" one is gonna be a bit harder to fit but will I have to limit how far it can turn internally to stop it from turning too much? (I don'tknow if that makes sense).

What I did get out of your post is to go with 3/8" line (mind as well). And I also get how to measure where to mount. And to mount the axle end first. Any clue about how much length of hose I will need? Maybe 48"? Or am I on the long/short side? I need to account for droop and such but I want a little extra for when I change my suspension again.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Thanks for the reply, it makes a bit more sense now. Maybe I am overthinking it too much. So i can get a ram with either 6" stroke or 8" stroke. The 8" one is gonna be a bit harder to fit but will I have to limit how far it can turn internally to stop it from turning too much? (I don'tknow if that makes sense).

What I did get out of your post is to go with 3/8" line (mind as well). And I also get how to measure where to mount. And to mount the axle end first. Any clue about how much length of hose I will need? Maybe 48"? Or am I on the long/short side? I need to account for droop and such but I want a little extra for when I change my suspension again.

An 8" stroke ram would ideally get limited to prevent too much stress on your steering links and knuckles, but it will work without doing that, you'll just be responsible for not pinning the steering against the stops. :)

48" will be really long. When I was selling kits, I used 48" lines for an outside-the-frame steering box (like Toyotas or GM trucks), and 36" for inside-the-frame boxes like yours. If you have the time to do it "right", get everything mounted up and measure exactly how much length you'll need. To get both hoses nicely bundled, you'll end up with two different lengths. Then you can just have them made to your specs.
 

grandmaster

Let the build Re-begin
Location
St. George, Utah
Good info once again! I appreciate your help! I am going to make the hoses myself (most likely) at my work so It shouldn't be a big deal. I just no hydraulic line doesnt bend like vacuum hose. Is there a good way to measure for those? I've seen how people run them, so I guess i can get a piece of rope and run it the way I think it needs to be and go from there.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Just take a chunk of hose and put in approximately in place, then measure how long it is. :) If you have the actual hydro hose to use, all the better...but cheap by-the-foot fuel/trans cooler hose works fine too. You just need a general idea.

I'm guessing you'll be somewhere in the 30-36" range.
 

Anchor_Mtn

Work Less, Travel More
Vendor
Location
Fruita, CO
Instead fo trying to piece together parts at the local tractor supply, just buy the correct length ram to fit your needs. That way you dont have to worry about too short of a throw limiting your steering.... or worse, too much throw that will eat balljoints and can actually break your knuckle off.

6.75 stroke x 1.5" bore with tabs and heims. You can also do a cut-to-length, DIY hose kit direct from PSC.
w-1274302011994.jpg
 

grandmaster

Let the build Re-begin
Location
St. George, Utah
Just take a chunk of hose and put in approximately in place, then measure how long it is. :) If you have the actual hydro hose to use, all the better...but cheap by-the-foot fuel/trans cooler hose works fine too. You just need a general idea.

I'm guessing you'll be somewhere in the 30-36" range.

I can just use the actual hydro hose from my work ahhaha :) So that is a good plan, never think of the simple things. I will just take a box home at night and measure.

Dang you should have bought my box I was selling not too long ago it was already all set up for hydro assist.

If I was looking then I probably would have lol....oh well. Guess it's a good time to learn.

Instead fo trying to piece together parts at the local tractor supply, just buy the correct length ram to fit your needs. That way you dont have to worry about too short of a throw limiting your steering.... or worse, too much throw that will eat balljoints and can actually break your knuckle off.

6.75 stroke x 1.5" bore with tabs and heims. You can also do a cut-to-length, DIY hose kit direct from PSC.
w-1274302011994.jpg

I don't know how much this one is....but I can piece everything together for just over 100 bucks. When I was checking kits the cheapest i could find was about 200 bucks for ram/hose/fittings/tabs.
 

Anchor_Mtn

Work Less, Travel More
Vendor
Location
Fruita, CO
Yes you can piece a steering system together for cheap.... but you get exactly what you pay for. Just remember, your steering is your link between you and the road....and failures become catastrophic.
 
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