I HATE seized bolts!!

[cruiseroutfit]

Pics of your bushings and the springs? If they are using an OEM style bushing its a single piece that is an absolute press fit into the leaf eye (press fit by definition not by the actual tools needed as it can/has been done with sledge setup). If they are using a 2 piece bushing assembly it ideally needs to have an inner sleeve and it should absolutely be a clearance fit (i.e. snug) on the ID of the leaf spring, otherwise that slop will equal wear and potential play leading to handling issues, vibrations, etc.

I stock the replacement OE bushings for your old springs if you were to 'fix' them as suggested, the reality is they are likely worth less than the bushings cost.

 

[Cascadia]

I posted in my build thread about it. Found out that the bushings I got with my springs from Panos are the wrong ones. Way too small. I have allpro springs and he gave me trail gear bushings on accident. So I'm meeting up with Nick later today and he's getting me the correct allpro bushings. He just accidentally grabbed the wrong ones. Kurt, is there a reason I would need to use oe bolts or can I just grab some grade 8's somewhere?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I posted in my build thread about it. Found out that the bushings I got with my springs from Panos are the wrong ones. Way too small. I have allpro springs and he gave me trail gear bushings on accident. So I'm meeting up with Nick later today and he's getting me the correct allpro bushings. He just accidentally grabbed the wrong ones. Kurt, is there a reason I would need to use oe bolts or can I just grab some grade 8's somewhere?

Assuming you could get a Grade 8 (actually the metric equivalent) in the proper shoulder length no issue at all. If you use a generic bolt (even metric) with a shoulder that is too long or short. If the shoulder portion is too short you can't torque it to OE spec without starting to collapse the hanger and if its too long you could get it torqued but have play.

 

[Cascadia]

Well I'm back at it with another bolt. I've had the rear lifted for a few days now and I had time to start working on the front. Got my tire off and the first bolt I was taking off which holds the bottom of the shock on the control arm is seized. I can't even get the nut off this one. I can't get to it to cut it either. Anyone had this issue on a Tacoma? What'd you do about it?

 

[sixstringsteve]

Is the truck rusty underneath? I've got a breaker bar and a cheater pipe. Something will give eventually

But seriously, soak it in PB blaster, and use a breaker bar with a cheater pipe on the end. With that much leverage, it'll come off eventually. Or, you could torch it off, but I'd use that as an absolute last resort.

 

[Raleigh]

http://www.theinductor.com/index.php?m=41

These are great for seized and rusted bolts...
Not cheap though!

 

[Cascadia]

I've tried with my breaker bar but there is no room to get it in there. I guess I'll just try soaking it again. I've personally never had luck with spraying bolts and things. But I still do it every time hoping I'll get lucky.

 

[sixstringsteve]

that is freaking amazing.

 

[Cascadia]

That is pretty cool but I don't want to wait for one to get here.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I've tried with my breaker bar but there is no room to get it in there. I guess I'll just try soaking it again. I've personally never had luck with spraying bolts and things. But I still do it every time hoping I'll get lucky.

would an extension or a u-bolt help? My neighbor has an electric impact gun, I wonder if that'd help. I've been meaning to get one of those.

 

[Cascadia]

I have tried using my impact already and an extension. The sway bar mount is in the way. Isn't budging 1/16". I'll soak it.

Instructions are always so easy sounding...
1. Remove the tire.
2. Remove lower shock bolt.
3. Remove 3 upper nuts securing the coilover.

It's never that easy.

 

[sixstringsteve]

you could remove your sway bar and rotate it out of the way.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Odd, I've had plenty of stubborn ones but never a completely seized on like the rear. If you can get he nut off you should be able to drive it out the back. You can drop the 4 bolts out of the lower ball joint and gain more clearance to the bolt head.

 

[cjncustoms]

Have you ever used aerokroil? Way better than pb blaster or anything else I've used. I get it from work but the only place I've seen it at is marshalls industrial store on 1300 s and just west of 215. They're open on Saturday til noon. Seriously the best stuff out there for seized nuts and bolts. Have you put any heat to it yet? I usually use a little propane/map gas torch. Takes a little while but it works great!

 

[Cascadia]

Odd, I've had plenty of stubborn ones but never a completely seized on like the rear. If you can get he nut off you should be able to drive it out the back. You can drop the 4 bolts out of the lower ball joint and gain more clearance to the bolt head.

Thanks Kurt. I'll have to see if that'll work. I'll wait a little longer to see if I can get that nut off. Once that is off it should be easy cause I have enough room to knock it out backwards.

 

[stimmie]

I've always had the best luck with regular Dex/Merc ATF.... put it in a little pump oil can, pump some on there, wait a while, and it comes right off.. Supposedly the detergents in the oil eat the stuff and break it loose..

 

[glockman]

I second the Kroil. It smells good too



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