Is it my starter, my battery, or my alternator

[JL Rockies]

If there's an LED on the dash, it's most-likely and after market alarm. I have the OEM alarm and the LED is in the console.... unless that changed from 1997.

And since any idiot can install an alarm and unfortunately many do, there is a chance you got the shade tree blues.

 

[SLC97SR5]

No don't use brake or carb cleaner. Carb cleaner leaves a lubricating film and will only create more problems and brake cleaner is a bit harsh especially if it is chlorinated. IPA has too much water in it. Buy a can of electrical safe contact cleaner like Misty, CRC, etc.

 

[sixstringsteve]

my IPA is 100% alcohol, no water (I bought it from the electrical store)

 

[ricsrx]

Steve have you consicered a possible fuel delivery problem i not at home this week end but have a pressure gauge u can use

 

[sixstringsteve]

Thanks Rick. Go figure that I can't get it to replicate the issue right now. At least it's driving. I'm going to put some seafoam in the tank to hopefully clean out all the injectors and all that.

 

[sixstringsteve]

My wife has been driving the runner for the past week and a half. To me, it's hard to start, but she can always start it when she needs to. Then I realized that my wife likes to keep craking on the starter even after it has fired. So if I hold the key to the "start" position longer than normal, it'll start.

Today it threw the CEL. I ran the code and the code said "system too lean (Bank 1)". I looked it up and usually that's a dirty MAF. (Why didn't anyone tell me this before )

1) I cleared the codes

2) I took off the airbox.

3) The throttle body had dirty black residue around the butterfly valve, so I cleaned it out with some brake cleaner on a paper towell. I also shot a little brake cleaner into it and it drained out black brake cleaner. Never a good sign to have a dirty throttle body.

4) I washed out the hose from the airbox to the throttle body to get any dirt/dust/grime out of there. It was only dusty (still not a great sign).

5) Then I washed the airbox out (without the filter of course), and I cleaned the MAF with isopropyl alcohol (0.00% water) and a q-tip.

6) I replaced the other 3 spark plugs (pass side, under the coil packs).

7) I put it all back together.


When I went to start it, it sputtered and cranked, but it wouldn't start. It acted like it wasn't getting fuel. Then I turned the key off for a few seconds and tried again. It started to go, then I gave it gas and it started. I took it for a spin around the block and it definitely feels more powerful. I attribute that to the now clean MAF. THen I went back home, shut it off, and tried to start it. It sputtered again and wouldn't start. It acted like it didn't have fuel. So I waited a minute and tried it again, and I could get it to start if I gave it gas. I drove it around the block and it drove just fine. Then I shut it off and tried to start it again and it cranked for a split second and started to fire up, then died. Then back to the cranking and cranking with what seems like no fuel.


My question is, does the computer have to "reset" itself now that the MAF is different? I'm wondering if it's adapting to the new readings it's getting, and since they're so far off from the old ones, it has to adjust or something. Maybe it still had a drop or two of brake cleaner in the throttle body and that's making it tough to start. Maybe I need to clean the throttle body some more. Maybe there's just a little moisture in the hose and it needs to dry out some more overnight. Thanks for hanging in there and helping me track this down guys. We'll get it running like a top.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

What kind of brake cleaner did you use? Chlorinated by chance?

From Will C (Toyota master tech & trainer)

Pretty common code on the 3.4 with or without SC. The MAF gets a little dust on it and sends the wrong info to the ECM, because of the false data the ECM injects too little fuel and the oxygen sensors respond by telling the ECM its running lean. To diagnose correctly you need to get a hold of a scantool to monitor some data. Also, this code would not come back on quickly as it takes some driving for the ECM to determine there is a problem; it could take up to 400 miles for the fuel trim numbers to build up again to the point it would turn the MIL back on.

However, you could clean the MAF, disconnect the battery for about 2 minutes and see if it clears it up. You want to use OEM Toyota brake cleaner, electric motor cleaner or a MAF cleaner; anything else will damage the MAF and ruin it.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Thanks Kurt. I only used the brake cleaner on the throttle body. I used electronics parts cleaner 100% ipa on the maf itself.

 

[Tacoma]

Gawd, Kurt! he cleaned it with isopropyl alchohol!! which is still not those other fluids. The brake cleaner mention made me nervous for your MAF sensor, Steve... :/

Assuming you didn't jack the MAF sensor, there are factory test procedures for alternators in the factory manuals, which rock. Find them, and follow them, and know.