Brysherexx
New Member
Is it acceptable when the castle nut is torqued to specs but goes past the cotter pin hole to back it off, insert washers, retorque, then insert cotter pin?
Joint Spacers
- Thread starter Brysherexx
- Start date
I’ve done it before. Wether it’s acceptable could be up for discussion.
I recommend a Grade 8 thick washer if anything.
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
I did it once when I reamed a knuckle a tad too deep. I’m sure it’s probably not kosher, but it held up fine for me.
Sneaks up fast huh 😂
- Location
- West Jordan
Any official docs (factory service manuals or similar) I've ever read about castle nut torque will tell you to torque to spec, then continue to tighten until you can get the cotter pin through.
I think he’s saying that when the nut is tightened, it is not tall enough that putting a cotter pin in the hole does anything because the top of the nut is past the hole.
Another option is I think you can find taller(longer) castle nuts in lieu of a washer under the nut.
- Location
- West Jordan
In that scenario I'd say stacked washers is probably acceptable, but certainly not ideal. Like you mentioned, I think a taller nut would be a better solution. You could also re-drill the cotter pin hole in a usable spot. Hell, you could run a second castle nut on upside down (so the castle tops face each other) and cotter pin it in place too I guess.
- Location
- Stinkwater
What I was going to say, and probably the right solution.
But there's a 98.4% chance that I'd stack washers.
UPNO4
Addicted
- Location
- Lindon, Ut
I'd put a thick washer under it