• RME Gear & Apparel

Kevin B's 1985 4Runner

Owners Name & City- Kevin B., Magna


Make, Model & Year of Vehicle- 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR5


Engine- 22RE, 261 cam, Thorley header, K&N filter


Transmission- Stock W56


T-Case- Stock case with 4.7 low range


Axles- Stock front w/spacers, IFS width rear


Differentials- 5.29s, Spartan locker in the rear


Suspension- 2" OME/Dakar lift and NitroCharger shocks.


Wheels and Tires- 255/85r16 KM2s on TRD alloys


Lights- IPF H4 conversion (Rigid Dually's waiting install)


Power- 140 amp alternator, Optima Redtop


Other-

DSCF0044_zpsb7e751fd.jpg




Just picked this up from Tacoman99 to replace my 1986 4Runner with a blown motor. Except for a few little bits I'll be transferring from my old rig, it's going to stay stock while I get it cleaned up and reliable and get to know it. It needs a new rear main and has saggy springs. It runs a little rough, I expect to clear that up with fresh gas, new plugs and wires, a little seafoam, etc. Tentative long term plans are OME/Dakar front and rear, 5.29s and my 255/85r16 KM2s, duals and/or 4.7 transfer case gears, and a locked rear. And probably a 3RZ swap :D.
 
Last edited:
Click to expand...
sixstringsteve

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Kevin, how is this thing coming along? I heard you got the title. Is it running yet? Is freeze your tail off going to happen?
 
Last edited:
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Steve, I can't say for sure at this point. I got the injectors back in and buttoned it up, and it wouldn't start. That ended up being a bad starter, so I just wrapped up replacing that with my spare and fired it up, and it's still not firing on that cylinder and it's still making that funky popping sound at the exhaust. I must have messed up my leakdown test somehow, there's something wrong in the head after all, and I'm guessing it's the exhaust valve. The only other thing it might be is wiring - the noid test set I borrowed didn't work, so I'll borrow one from another store to doublecheck the injector wiring before I completely tear it down again.

To do before I can drive it around:
Replace the head (I have a spare) OR fix the injector wiring.
Replace the front springs (83trailblazer has kindly offered me a set for $20, but they're 3" lift so I'll likely have to use them to build a custom front pack or raise the rear to match).
Whatever else I stumble across that needs attention while I'm doing those two things. :)
Get it plated and registered. I have the title now, so at least that's out of the way.

To do before I'll be comfortable on a serious trail:
Get front wheel spacers so I can put on my 33s (too much backspace on the TRD rims interferes with the tie rod end).
Figure out what gears I'm going to run and install them, I suspect 33s and 4.10s and stock TC gears will bring the suck.
Rebuild (or at least refresh) the knuckles.
Install my sliders and rear bumper.

I might have had that all done by weekend after this and in time for that Swell trip if it weren't for the head. I'm still going to try, but we'll see... the weather has been awesome but will turn sooner or later, and when it does I'm going to slow down :). If this isn't running by FYTO then I'll be freezing my tail off in my driveway, so if you've got somebody else that wants your seats by all means take them along!
 
Last edited:
sixstringsteve

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
if it's not close in a week or two, i'll be over there helping you wrench on it. What days do you need help?
 
Last edited:
TRD270

TRD270

Emptying Pockets Again
Supporting Member
Location
SaSaSandy
If you only want to run 33's I'll have a set of 4.88's available, as well as a Detroit. I have a set of 5.29's I need to install in my ladies ride, just haven't been motivated to strip down the front end.
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
sixstringsteve said:
if it's not close in a week or two, i'll be over there helping you wrench on it. What days do you need help?
Click to expand...

Steve, I'll be out there every morning until it's done. When I could use the help is with the springs probably, but I certainly won't object to company any time. :)
 
sixstringsteve

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Are you thinking you're going to want to stay with 33's?

I should have my rig situation figured out in the next couple days, then I can get mine driving and head your way. Maybe Andrew will let us borrow his heater. Get it driving then we can work on it at my place in my garage.
 
TRD270

TRD270

Emptying Pockets Again
Supporting Member
Location
SaSaSandy
Kevin B. said:
I have a pair of 5.29 thirds, one with a Spartan and the other welded, wanna trade?
Click to expand...

I already have a set of 5.29's for it. Plan on running an ARB up front, since that's probably the biggest complaint I have with my rig. I'm not a fan of having a full time locker in the front
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Yeah, I'll run open in the front until I can afford a selectable. Is there any reason the front housing can't be modified to accept an elocker the same as the rear?

Let me know about the 4.88s, I'm probably interested.
 
sixstringsteve

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
the front can be modified to accept an elocker. WIth the high pinion units, it gets awfully close to the spring perch, but it's doable.
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
So here's a free tip - if you're going to use the hose from a rented compression tester to hook up your compressor and do a leakdown test, take the flippin' schrader valve out first so that the air actually gets into your cylinder. As long as I'm tearing the head down I would have sent the injectors in for the rebuild anyway, so all I've really lost is time and effort, but it's still time and effort.

So. No compression on that cylinder 2 at all. Very low compression on the others, from 40-60 psi. When I shoot air into them, I can hear it in the intake and feel maybe a bit coming out the exhaust. A little piece of lightweight plastic bag laid over the top of the dipstick hole doesn't budge, and a glug of oil added to the cylinders adds maybe 5 psi to the compression test, if that - do I dare assume that the rings are in at least useable condition?

In other news, scored a set of front springs and a 4.7 transfer case from 83trailblazer today at a price that's almost-but-not-quite unfair - the springs I needed, the case I just really wanted, but either way I'm looking forward to getting the motor fired up so I can focus on adding some fun things.
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Got the head I'll be using out of the shop today, glad I sent it in because it ended up needing resurfaced. I'm halfway through pulling the bad one now, hopefully by this time tomorrow it'll be running?

Probably not. There'll be something else wrong.
 
sixstringsteve

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
just think how much confidence you'll have taking this into the backcountry. You'll know everything on the motor is good.
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
TRD270 said:
Any news on whats causing the issue?
Click to expand...

Fairly sure I narrowed it down to bad valves in the head. I'll know I'm wrong when I get this one off and there's a giant hole in the top of the piston... ;)

I'm at the part that sucks more than anything has ever sucked - getting at the underneath bolts on the lower plenum. What a monstrous PITA to get those out, and it's going to be even worse getting them back in. I'm taking a break before I start kicking stuff.
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Well, I'm baffled. The piston surfaces look good, the walls of the chambers are smooth, the gasket is intact, and I don't see any damage to the valves. Anybody see anything wrong here? Any ideas for what else to check?


IMAG0592_zps024e3653.jpg


IMAG0594_zps37ab61c9.jpg


IMAG0595_zps962f666b.jpg


The good news is, I may not have to deal with a rear main - there's oil all down the back of the block and on top of the bell housing. I think the valve cover wasn't sealed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top