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KP D60 5 lug swap

waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Is this possible or should I not bother? I'm thinkng about putting a rock jock 60 in the rear, and the most they can do is 6 lug and no full float. So I'm thinking about biting it and going 5 on 5.5 so I can have the HPD60 in the rear, even though it's not full float....

The axle is out of a 88 Ford....
 
7

78mitsu

Registered User
I just recently found that the axles in a partial floating 60 are signficantly bigger then the axles in a full floating 60, I understand some of that because the wheel load, but if you're light a pf will be stronger.
 
mbryson

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Location
Bountiful, land of rocks
We did this to my friend's Ramcharger so he could keep his 20" 'bling' wheels that are 5 on 5.5". It was a tossup to which was cheaper. He spent about $700-800 just on the swap and has 'custom' parts (machined rotor) that aren't available off the shelf at the parts store.

$400 on 5 on 5.5" hubs
$100 for caliper brackets
$60 for rotors
$50 to get them machined
$50 for rebuilt calipers
$50 for brakelines

It's not that hard to run across a decent looking set of 8 lug wheels and maybe even tires for about the same price.

Personally, I like to buy stuff I can get somewhat readily from your local 'NAPA' or ???? parts store.


Why are you so stuck on the rear high pinion? Personally, I don't think it's worth it for what you get. In the front.....I can understand it. The rear, I think it's a waste unless you're a comp rig looking for every bit of clearance wherever you can get it. The gearset is SIGNIFICANTLY weaker in a rear application.
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
78mitsu said:
I just recently found that the axles in a partial floating 60 are signficantly bigger then the axles in a full floating 60, I understand some of that because the wheel load, but if you're light a pf will be stronger.
Click to expand...

That's only in a factory SF60. An aftermarket one (like that Rock Jock) will likely have 9" style shafts, so they'll basically be 1.5" throughout their length.

A factory SF60 was a C-clip axle, so the wheel bearing rode directly on the shaft, thus the larger diameter. (and for load carrying capability)

The only real problem with a SF axle is the inability to get an axleshaft with the flange large enough to do an 8 lug pattern.
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
I like the idea of the RJ, because it's HP and on a TJ, that gives a much better driveline angle. ...And that's the only reason I'm even considering it. Even though they are riding on the coast side, they are still strong enough for 44" tires. The RJ is also custom built, so I can have any width I want. Another negative, is that they don't do FF's and only 9" style axles.

I just need to match front and rear bolt pattern. The front is already bought, so I can't change that... But the rear I can buy accordingly...

The other thought is how easy is it to narrow a full float 60? What do I do, just cut some out of the middle and weld it back together? That will be another deciding factor... Because I may not keep the front axle full width. I think I want to be around 64" max. But IF I do change the width, I'll go with a stock size 35 spline shaft....
 
Andy

Andy

aka. Hollywood
Location
Here and there....
You will need the pinion height for your application with the RJ so if you can go with that. As for a SF 60 rear that's easy unless you want 8 lug. But pinion height is important for your application.
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Andy said:
You will need the pinion height for your application with the RJ so if you can go with that. As for a SF 60 rear that's easy unless you want 8 lug. But pinion height is important for your application.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm thinking... Right now I have 16.5"? driveline. Even if I stretch 6", I will only have a 22.5" driveline - which is still real short. That's why I started asking about switching the KP HPD60 over to 5 on 5.5....

If I am narrowing an axle, it would be a FF60, not SF60. The RJ will be ordered to working width so I don't need to mess with it... I'll have them make the housing, weld the housing ends on and make the custom 35 spline 5 on 5.5 axles for it. Then I'll do the custom bracketry and gears myself.

If I do the FF60, then I'll keep the 8 lug, just might narrow it if it's easy enough and I'm able to narrow the front (want to make sure the pinion stays in the right place)....
 
Milner

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
Location
Hiding behind a camera
There are several 5 lug front kits for 60's 6states carries one. Our the DIY way....there are a few threads burried around here about that....
I would do the SF rockjock for sure....1.5 35splines....same shafts I am running in my 9"....They take some serious abuse.
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
waynehartwig said:
I Even though they are riding on the coast side, they are still strong enough for 44" tires.
Click to expand...

No.

The other thought is how easy is it to narrow a full float 60? What do I do, just cut some out of the middle and weld it back together? That will be another deciding factor... Because I may not keep the front axle full width. I think I want to be around 64" max. But IF I do change the width, I'll go with a stock size 35 spline shaft....
Click to expand...

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=14474&highlight=narrow+60
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
waynehartwig said:
No? That's what Currie says, so that's where I got that info from...What would you suggest as the tallest tire?

Thanks for the link! Looks good for the front - but what about the rear FF'er, if I don't go RJ?

If Six States carries a 5 on 5.5 kit, then it's probably Spicer parts...? Or at least off the shelf?
Click to expand...

I've seen plenty of RC D60 gearsets broken with just a 4.0 and weenie 37's, so take that for whatever it's worth.

Rear FF's typically just have the spindles butt-welded to the tubes, obviously with alignment pucks and a jig or bar. I think it's been discussed on here before, you might poke around and dig up some old thread.....

I think the wheel hubs Six States (and others) carry is an all-new, aftermarket wheel hub. I'm sure Andy could shed more light on that one.
 
7

78mitsu

Registered User
I Lean said:
That's only in a factory SF60. An aftermarket one (like that Rock Jock) will likely have 9" style shafts, so they'll basically be 1.5" throughout their length.

A factory SF60 was a C-clip axle, so the wheel bearing rode directly on the shaft, thus the larger diameter. (and for load carrying capability)

The only real problem with a SF axle is the inability to get an axleshaft with the flange large enough to do an 8 lug pattern.
Click to expand...

my sf 60 isn't a c-clip axle. It's just like a 44 only it has 1.5" axle that tapers up to about 1.75 where it rides on the bearing. Finding spares tends to be an issue too.
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
I Lean said:
I've seen plenty of RC D60 gearsets broken with just a 4.0 and weenie 37's, so take that for whatever it's worth.

Rear FF's typically just have the spindles butt-welded to the tubes, obviously with alignment pucks and a jig or bar. I think it's been discussed on here before, you might poke around and dig up some old thread.....

I think the wheel hubs Six States (and others) carry is an all-new, aftermarket wheel hub. I'm sure Andy could shed more light on that one.
Click to expand...

I wonder if they were quality gears or a junk brand?

I'll look around some more to see if I can find anything... But I think at this point I'm more concerned with trying to convert the front KP 60 to 5 lug and run the Currie rock jock in the rear...
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
rckcrlr said:
Spindles/bearings are stock spicer, but hubrotors and rotors are not....

Biggest I'd run on 35 splines in 40"
Click to expand...

I wonder if I can just toss them into a lathe and redrill them myself???

I think I'll be running 37's after the swap.. Unless I keep with the 15" wheels, then I'll keep my new 35's.
 
M

MRJ

Just a user
Location
Draper, UT
waynehartwig said:
I wonder if I can just toss them into a lathe and redrill them myself???

I think I'll be running 37's after the swap.. Unless I keep with the 15" wheels, then I'll keep my new 35's.
Click to expand...


Most standard aluminum 15" wheels will not have a hub bore big enough to fit the 60 hub.
 
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