Land Cruiser de-evolution
- Thread starter I Lean
- Start date
Were you able to fix it? What ended up being the problem?
I used a method similar to this write up: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/01-02-4runner-how-zero-point-calibrate-your-vsc-system-203498/ and described again here http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/155700-3rd-gen-yaw-calibration.html
I don't know how similar the systems are between the 4runner and Land Cruiser.
I don't know how similar the systems are between the 4runner and Land Cruiser.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Love that. I've probably read it through at least a half dozen times.No. But:
a) I don't know how.
b) Don't know that I have a "zero point" thing...isn't that only '03+?
For anyone interested in the axleshaft ideas, check out this thread. Lots of good nerd info.https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1459289-jantz-engineering-thread.html
Good work Mr Whitmore!
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
This thing was my favorite rig at Kurt's BBQ tonight. Absolutely a beautiful sleeper.
- Location
- The Village of Kay
Congrats on winning "Best in Show"! Great looking rig! Lets go get it dirty!
Thanks!
No kidding, it needs a little bit of use to begin curing the Mall Crawler status.
Driving it in 4WD wasn't as wonderful as I was hoping. Despite the center differential relieving drivetrain bind, the front axle U-joints are pretty noticeable, especially accelerating around a corner. That could be cured by using axleshafts with a CV joint in it--RCV or similar. Those are a BUNCH of money...and combine that with the little driveline vibration I have, made the next choice easy. The driveline vibration is because I totally nailed the pinion angle when assembling the axle. It's perfectly wrong for both a standard U-joint shaft, as well as wrong for a double cardan driveshaft.
So, part-time 4WD here we come! @cruiseroutfit had the kit in stock for me, which I picked up yesterday at the BBQ. Here it is after I pressed the bearing onto it:
Installation is pretty simple--basically, take the back half the transfer case apart to access the center diff. Replace the rear half of the differential with this spool. Reassemble. This pic is as far as it gets disassembled...ready to start putting it back together.
Here it is with the spool bolted on, ready to put the case parts back:
All buttoned up. I'll give it overnight for the silicone to cure before filling with oil and getting it back on the road.
Now, the former Center Diff Lock button on the dash will engage front-wheel-drive instead. Hubs are easy on this axle--for now I have the stock Ford locking hubs on it, but they're pretty ugly so I'll replace them soon.
So, part-time 4WD here we come! @cruiseroutfit had the kit in stock for me, which I picked up yesterday at the BBQ. Here it is after I pressed the bearing onto it:
Installation is pretty simple--basically, take the back half the transfer case apart to access the center diff. Replace the rear half of the differential with this spool. Reassemble. This pic is as far as it gets disassembled...ready to start putting it back together.
Here it is with the spool bolted on, ready to put the case parts back:
All buttoned up. I'll give it overnight for the silicone to cure before filling with oil and getting it back on the road.
Now, the former Center Diff Lock button on the dash will engage front-wheel-drive instead. Hubs are easy on this axle--for now I have the stock Ford locking hubs on it, but they're pretty ugly so I'll replace them soon.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Very nice kit upgrade. I'm curious if that will affect your mpg any.
- Location
- West Jordan
Yes, as long as you also install locking (and unlocking
) hubs on your front axle.As @bryson said, you need to install locking hubs in place of the drive flanges. There is some discussion on Mud about it... I think AVM is currently the only option for hubs. @cruiseroutfit is working on a way to use Aisin hubs, but that's still a long way off I suspect.
It will not. I've been 2WD since the SAS due to no front axle shafts.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I know on the 80 Series, swapping to part time at the t-case and adding hubs doesn't really gain any additional MPG. I looked into it at one point, but the cost didn't justify the gains.
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
As @bryson said, you need to install locking hubs in place of the drive flanges. There is some discussion on Mud about it... I think AVM is currently the only option for hubs. @cruiseroutfit is working on a way to use Aisin hubs, but that's still a long way off I suspect.
It will not. I've been 2WD since the SAS due to no front axle shafts.
I have the parts to do AISIN's on the IFS here today
Sadly it requires replacement of the CV axles but if you need new CV's it's a great and affordable option.
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
Like anything, mileage may vary (pun intended). We don't sell the PT kits with any advertised effect on mileage but customer do report gains and historically so have many online. That said there are some who did it and claim no gains. For me, it's a way to reduce from driveshaft, birf and CV wear, offers ability to drive home with broken front bits and I like the way they drive.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I could see the reduced wear & tear on front-end components, that just makes sense! I was looking into it years ago and the consensus on Mud was similar to what you've found. It seems like if you wanted part-time 4WD only for a gain in mileage, you'd be disappointed.
Since it has actual functioning 4WD now, I should probably make the ARB actually lock and stuff.
This looks like a nice spot to place the compressor.
Little bracket that bolts into 3 existing holes in the fender.
What you can't see easily, is that the 3 mounting points are not only 3 different heights, they're also 3 different angles. I'm not sure if that's original, or still a leftover from the wreck.
Either way, it all works in the end. Compressor is mounted and partially wired...ran out of time to complete the in-dash wiring, that will have to come next time.
This looks like a nice spot to place the compressor.
Little bracket that bolts into 3 existing holes in the fender.
What you can't see easily, is that the 3 mounting points are not only 3 different heights, they're also 3 different angles.
I'm not sure if that's original, or still a leftover from the wreck.
Either way, it all works in the end. Compressor is mounted and partially wired...ran out of time to complete the in-dash wiring, that will have to come next time.
