Land Rover Discovery

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
I have to say the Discovery's have always interested me. Live solid axles, aluminum bodies, good looks, fun to drive, and offroad capable to name a few, and they always seem to catch my eye in the most unlikely places.

My wife and I are in the market for a newer SUV, and have always been dead set on a 96-03 Toyota 4runner, but lately there has been the though of a LR Discovery. I know they have their quirks and consumer reports swears up and down their almost worthless, but does anyone have any real experience with them??? What years are best??? So far I have gathered that the wiring is full of gremlins, poor fuel economy, expensive cost for repair to name a few, but what about the guy (like me) that can fix, and modify his own stuff, and not pay a dealer??

I would plan to use it for a DD and a camping/exploring rig where open diffs and mud terrains are good enough. Thanks for any help and info :)

Andrew
 

4554x4

always modifing something
Location
Sandy Utah
Disco

Rotbox, i'm a professional auto technician, and we have had these in our shop before, and have desided to turn them away from now on . They are difficult to work on, need special tools etc. You have listed several reasons why not to buy one and you are still interested? Buy the Toyota and thank yourself everyday.
 

toys4rocks

I didn't mean to do that!
Location
Lehi
I have the LOADED LR2, tow package, self leveling, heated windshield, 18's, traction control, heated leather, I love this thing, it is very capable off road and comfortable.

It handles very well on the street too.

Now for the cons: There is barely any aftermarket support. LR recommends if you find even aftermarket brake pads, to not use them. You really have to buy everything from the dealer.

Also there are only a couple of places around here that even have the tools to work on them.

And lastly, the MPG blows!!
 
Andrew,

My brother had a LR-D
in St. George. His wife loved it until they had to pay for a repair that wasn't covered by the warranty and when he had to do his first brake job due to a "lunched" rotor he cringed at the bill.I don't remember the price he paid but I can ask, but I do remember that what he had to pay in parts to do the front brakes was outrageous.
He had to take it to a dealer in Vegas if I remember correctly for one of the repairs because at the time in St. George nobody had the tools or computer equipment to work on it.
Needless to say they sold it and actually got 98 4-Runner and so far love driving it everyday.

My opinion is as follows;
Land Rover = Mall Crawler = Wasted Money (unless you just want to look good on the street and can afford to fix it in the dirt).

4-Runner = Everyone is got one (3 in my family so far) and parts are easy to come across and easy to fix when you break it.
 

lenny

formerly known as PokeyYJ
Location
Bountiful, UT
Rotbox, i'm a professional auto technician, and we have had these in our shop before, and have desided to turn them away from now on . They are difficult to work on, need special tools etc. You have listed several reasons why not to buy one and you are still interested? Buy the Toyota and thank yourself everyday.

Wrong,,, mostly. I work at the Centerville Land Rover dealer, unless you are talking about newer (2005 and newer) vehicles, almost everything is basic. Exceptions are the security system and the ABS system, both require specialized computers to communicate with the vehicle.

Rot Box,

If you are looking for a Discovery, go after a 1994-1999 Series 1 Discovery for simplicity. Stay away from 1999-2003 Series 2 Discovery's, 2004's are the cream of the crop :D

If you are looking at series 1 Discovery's don't pay more that 7k for one. Try to get the 99 model year. If you want a Discovery that will give you almost zero problems get the basic model, no sunroofs (which tend to leak water), no rear A/C (lines tend to leak freon), rear jump seats rattle like crazy offroad and make changing brake light bulbs a PITA.

Pro's for the 99's include a u-jointed rear driveshaft, earlier versions have a rubber coupler called a roto-flex that cracks and does not like to be lifted, you can swap to a u-jointed driveshaft easily if you get the earlier years. The ABS and engine management systems seem to be less problematic on the 99's. I have never had a check engine light or ABS problem on my 99.

The 1994-1995ish to 1996 Discovery's came with a 3.9 V-8 that used a distributor. 1996-1999 came with 4.0 V-8 that is much smoother and distributorless ignition. As you know they are not very powerful, 182 hp and 250 ft-lbs, but if you dont overheat them the engine will run forever. (My 89 Range Rover has well over 300K on the original engine and trans)

The earlier Discovery's came with manual transmissions as an option, they are odd to drive at best. Better MPG, but the trans are not considered to be very strong. The ZF auto that comes in most is a far better choice and practically bomb proof behind the 4.0's.

Here is what you will have problems with:
Biggest issue's for Discovery's is oil leaks, look closely at headgaskets for oil and coolant leaking externally. Oil cooler lines, and power steering lines are VERY common leak points. Transfer case leaks at the intermidiate shaft o-rings are common, although not a huge deal (will leak forever, as long as you keep the fluid up it wont cause any problems).

Parts can be expensive,, but there are easy ways around almost everything. Lots of the techs here have figured out ways to properly use american parts for almost every failure point (fuel pumps, injectors, wheel bearings, ect...) The vehicles are not hard to work on. I replaced headgaskets on my 99 last november in my garage in about 16 hours, and that includes time to clean the heads.

The vehicles tend to have a bad rap, but I really enjoy driving mine. I am lifted with 32's and get 16 mpg on the highway. The aftermarket support is growing for the older Land Rovers, and again,, they are getting cheaper everyday.

If you want to get a cheap one, look for a 94. Can find em for under 4k

Again,, just make sure that the engine has not been overheated. You will have problems if its been overheated.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Thanks for the help you guy's :)

I know (if I get one) that it will be different, and I can understand why a shop wouldn't want to touch one (Saabs, Volvo's, VW's and Rotory engines are a mystery to some also), but that I think is something you get used to.

I could be wrong, but I think that the majority of people in the market for these vehicles aren't the type that are going to change their own head gaskets, trans fluid, or even grease their own wheel bearings. Factory replacement parts are down right expensive theirs no arguing that, but I agree with Lenny when it comes to the ability to upgrading to better stuff. As for special tools what kind am I looking at? ABS systems are a pain and very expensive with any vehicle, do LR's have a lot of common problems in this area? And gas milage... well... I dunno.... I guess it couldn't be worse than my old 454 :sick:

Thanks

Andrew
 

spencurai

Purple Burglar Alarm
Location
WVC,UT
Nobody has ever tried to like rovers more than me and I have driven dozens. I like how they look, I like how they ride and I like the interiors but I haven't gotten into a single one that hasn't had at least 5 problems after I turned the key!

I want to like them but the quality, fit, and finish is HORRIBLE. Their drivetrains are clunky and parts are SUPER expensive. It's a British Jeep...same crap quality but they charge you more!

The latest was a Range Rover of the '03 vintage. I saw it at the Cadillac dealer and it was gorgeous. I got in, turned the key and whammo!!

1) Digital gauges were all screwed up and I couldn't see the trip computer or mileage.
2) Navigation system thought I was in seattle!
3) Power seats didn't work.
4) Power windows were screwed up, only right side would roll down.
5) Alarm would go off when you turned off the ignition and opened the door. 6) Manual shift auto tranny didn't work.

What it boils down to is go drive one and be picky about it. Turn every knob, pull every lever, open every hatch, and push every button!

A wise sales guy at Centerville once told me, "If you can't afford to bring it in for every repair then don't bother with a rover!"
 

lenny

formerly known as PokeyYJ
Location
Bountiful, UT
I could be wrong, but I think that the majority of people in the market for these vehicles aren't the type that are going to change their own head gaskets, trans fluid, or even grease their own wheel bearings.

You would be suprised, as the older Land Rovers become cheaper they are turning into the enthusiasts vehicle. Many people that buy older ones do in fact service the vehicle themselves.

As for special tools what kind am I looking at? ABS systems are a pain and very expensive with any vehicle, do LR's have a lot of common problems in this area?

If you stick with 1997-1999 Discovery series 1 you will not need any special tools really. The vehicle is OBDII so all general scanners will show engine codes. The ABS systems on the vehicle are somewhat problematic, but only if the vehicle has higher mileage (150,000+). Even then, the system is very simple as far as ABS goes and if you can get the codes pulled, the repairs are easy. Most people that modify the Discovery's disable the ABS anyways because it is too intrusive offroad. Other than that I really can't think of any major problem areas that require special tools

The newer 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2's have some problems with the ABS system because it is tied into the Traction Control and the Hill Decent Control systems.

And yeah the MPG sucks,,, thats why I have a thread in Chit Chat about trying something cheaper :rofl:
 

lenny

formerly known as PokeyYJ
Location
Bountiful, UT
Nobody has ever tried to like rovers more than me and I have driven dozens. I like how they look, I like how they ride and I like the interiors but I haven't gotten into a single one that hasn't had at least 5 problems after I turned the key!

Come get in mine :D;)

I want to like them but the quality, fit, and finish is HORRIBLE. Their drivetrains are clunky and parts are SUPER expensive.
The newer vehicles are not clunky, the older ones are. There is a lot of slack in the driveline between the trans, t-case, and diffs it will clunk when you put it in drive or reverse. Just part of the appeal :cool:

The latest was a Range Rover of the '03 vintage. I saw it at the Cadillac dealer and it was gorgeous. I got in, turned the key and whammo!!

1) Digital gauges were all screwed up and I couldn't see the trip computer or mileage.
2) Navigation system thought I was in seattle!
3) Power seats didn't work.
4) Power windows were screwed up, only right side would roll down.
5) Alarm would go off when you turned off the ignition and opened the door. 6) Manual shift auto tranny didn't work.

Sounds about right,, probably got the vehicle at auction so the Navs disc would have been incorrect for the mountain region.

Problems 3,4,5,6 all sound like a BECM reprogramming issue to me. Or a wiring repair needed.

Problem 1 is a common issue with the 03-04 Range Rover's, the IPAC seems to loose LCD lines when they get old and the display becomes unreadable. They have changed IPAC's since then

What it boils down to is go drive one and be picky about it. Turn every knob, pull every lever, open every hatch, and push every button!

Sound like good advise for buying any car

A wise sales guy at Centerville once told me, "If you can't afford to bring it in for every repair then don't bother with a rover!"

Don't listen to our salespeople,, they are trained to put Land Rover on a higher plain than other vehicles. Work on the vehicle yourself, get a manual, their not hard to work on (older ones). Yes, you will be working on it more than a Honda Civic, but you also get a unique vehicle that has tons of personality and great brand history.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Thanks a lot for the help I really appreciate it :D

Lenny you said avoid the Discovery II's and I was wondering why? Is it cost or difficulty of repair? or is it something else? I'm looking at an 01 tomarrow that has been owned by a "Guru" since new and for the price it seems like a steal with 70K miles, but I won't walk into it blind that's for sure :)

thanks again

Andrew
 

lenny

formerly known as PokeyYJ
Location
Bountiful, UT
Thanks a lot for the help I really appreciate it :D

Lenny you said avoid the Discovery II's and I was wondering why? Is it cost or difficulty of repair? or is it something else? I'm looking at an 01 tomarrow that has been owned by a "Guru" since new and for the price it seems like a steal with 70K miles, but I won't walk into it blind that's for sure :)

thanks again

Andrew

Disco II's are more prone to failures. Take the common failures of the Disco I and add very troublesome ABS, Traction Control, and Hill Decent Control systems. Also the aftermarket for Disco II's is not as strong as Disco I's. The Disco II also suffers from an aluminum centered plastic capped radiator that is extremely common to leak, also very common is Secondary Air Injection problems and the throttle body leaks coolant on almost all disco II's. Pull the service history on the vehicle, check to see if the Discovery is a Low Emissions Vehicle, or a Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle.. The ULEV rigs tend to have more SES problems because the engine ECU is tuned more sensitively.

The 2001 Discovery will not have a center locking differential, which will make a huge difference offroad (however, most Disco II's can have the CDL added)
 

spencurai

Purple Burglar Alarm
Location
WVC,UT
I want a Range Rover...I really do but if I wanted a semi luxury 4X4 with questionable reliability and clunky problematic operation I will just buy a Grand Cherokee for a fraction of the price so I can enjoy 100X the aftermarket and cheap replacement parts. Then maybe Cody would want to hang out with me but that's doubtfull...he is supposedly so much cooler than us all!
 

MOODY

Bald Guy
Location
Sandy
Bought a 99 Series 1 with 50k, by 60k, I had leaks and weird issues popping up daily. We sold it with ~65k and bought a Nissan. Lenny even helped me out with one of the repairs....As much as I liked the vehicle, I didn't trust it. If you like fixing vehicles, and can do it yourself, why not? They are super cheap now. I saw one the other day on a car lot for 7900 with under 100k.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Oh yeah, I know all about wanting to like something when it doesn't like me back :rolleyes:....

About 2 years ago I bought a 95 Chevrolet k2500 with a 6.5L diesel turbo. I was told (by everyone) that it would have problems, but I was sure that I could fix all of them myself. Turns out that I had EVERY known problem with that truck besides the broken crank issue, and that was with 40K-60K on the ODO! In the first year of owning it I spend over 5 grand (seriously) just to keep it on the road doing all the repairs myself. I honestly loved and hated that truck, and can't tell you how much I tried to ignore that fact that I was under the hood more than in the drivers seat. But in the end I cut my losses (which where quite substantial) and bought a Tacoma and have has ZERO problems to date :) Not to compare apples to oranges, but I guess that I'm just worried that the past will come back to haunt me :eek:

I've been researching the Discoveries (I & II's) for about 96 hours strait now, and have decided that I'm going to hold off on one for awhile, and look into the 4Runners, and the X-terras, and see what I can come up with.

But they look soo cool.... Oh man.... Hella lights sure look good on the roof rack.... Solid axles.... :rolleyes: (I'm going crazy!)
 

rondo

rondo
Location
Boise Idaho
This is only for what it's worth; i've known three people that had discoverys and two of them had numerous electrical problems to deal with; every time it went to the dealer it was a 1000$ bill, quoted one of my friends. Two of them sold them. None of them ever took it off road.
Don't get me wrong because i have no personal experience or prejudice with them, in fact i love the looks, very sexy vehicle. it's just that i've heard they have bad electrical problems.
 

BlackDog

one small mod at a time
in fact i love the looks, very sexy vehicle.
The County model is the only vehicle ever declared by the Louvre to be a work of art, very sexy vehicle.
I drove a 5 speed Disco I, and it flat scooted compared to a Auto version.

The Series II in Niagra grey with 18's Factory 18's, that is, and the Rover Brush gurads is the sexiest vehicle I have ever seen or driven. They smell like none other (tasty) drive like none other ( equivalent to or better than sex) but Until I make alot more than I do, or find one super cheap (County with Bad motor....) I won't be brave enough to go there.

And I would have to lean towards Def 90 or County/HSE before I went Disco.
 

krazz1e

Registered User
:rofl:

d1 & d2 have a bad rap because dealers rape consumers in repairs and there are few indy shops to help out. The reality is they are easy to work on and require no special tools except a few metric sockets, boo ****ing hoo. If you can wrench then have no fear. As for reliability, the drivetrain is super strong stock compared to many vechiles. Loud and clunky? Yep that's what you get with a all gear driven AWD t-case bigger than a atlas.

It's great because so many people think this so it drives the market prices cheap cheap. A D1 is a great deal. '98-99 are the best build quality. And the D1 is the last of the real rovers not ford.

Hey don't buy em, more for me! :greg:

Beware though, aftermarket is more expensive only because there are fewer of them.

cya broke down on the trail, err mall parking lot. :D
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
:rofl:

d1 & d2 have a bad rap because dealers rape consumers in repairs and there are few indy shops to help out. The reality is they are easy to work on and require no special tools except a few metric sockets, boo ****ing hoo. If you can wrench then have no fear. As for reliability, the drivetrain is super strong stock compared to many vechiles. Loud and clunky? Yep that's what you get with a all gear driven AWD t-case bigger than a atlas.

It's great because so many people think this so it drives the market prices cheap cheap. A D1 is a great deal. '98-99 are the best build quality. And the D1 is the last of the real rovers not ford.

Hey don't buy em, more for me! :greg:

Beware though, aftermarket is more expensive only because there are fewer of them.

cya broke down on the trail, err mall parking lot. :D




:rofl::rofl::rofl: Metrics? I love Metrics... it's easier to read which size is bigger than the other :rofl:

That pretty much put the icing on the cake for me. And your right about the dealer thing it seams like everyone that has complained about Land Rovers (or Toyota's) has mentioned taking them to the dealer for all repairs. I will never go to any dealer with the intent of having them work on my vehicle no matter what brand unless I absoluty have to. And all this time I have not heard ONE complaint about a failing ZF auto or the factory T-case.

I have decided to avoid the DII's for the simple fact that they are much more complicated than the DI's.

Plus: I love loud and clunky, and If I could afford it my wife and I would have Unimogs for DD's :cool:

Andrew
 

krazz1e

Registered User
can't get them in the states unless they are retrofit. we get the buick v8 aluminum block. While the v8 puts off a good amount of low end torque that is ideal for this vechile it's no chevy by any stretch.

300tdi & td5 for the diesel. Keith @ rovertracks.com is rumored to have a kit in the works, the biggest issue is the smog control and if it's allowed in your (our) state.
 
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