leaf springs

to go to a coil set up from a leaf it could be more expensive but since you all ready have the coils is all you do is slip in FJ80 rear coils, use square tube or a braket you buy to make the front link mounts on the frame, buy a bracket for the inside of the frame and then lengthen your links done. I have seen it done several times with much success. If you go with Leafs you need to: cut and grind off all the frame brakets, axle brackets, cut of the lower coil buckets, weld on leaf spring perches, and weld on front and rear hangers. So a little more work for doing leafs and i think you would like the coils better and steve thinks you like the leafs better. Either way i can help you set it up if you like and get parts if you need them

Th six stud arms go with the six stud knuckels. Its two more studs than a stock toyota axle knuckle and its stronger.
 
what is a six stud steering arm with the trail gear solid axle swap?

the stock steering arms bolt on to the knuckles with 4 bolts (actually, they're studs with nuts on them). With huge tires and power steering, it's possible to get in a situation where it's easier for the steering to break those 4 studs off than it is to turn your wheel. It won't make much sense if you haven't had a good hard look at a toyota axle before.

the 6 studs make it stronger so now it has to sheer 6 studs instead of 4. You can also upgrade the bolts to a stronger material (ARP studs) to reduce breakage as well. If you're new to wheeling, it'll be a good year or two before you get in situations where you'll break your steering studs, unless you're running tires bigger than 35's. A lot of guys run stock steering studs on huge tires, they just make sure to torque those nuts down before (and sometimes during) every ride.

Basically, I wouldn't worry about the 6-stud steering arms unless you've got a big budget for this build. Do the bare minimum first: sas, steering, sliders, 4.7 t-case gears or dual cases, and go from there. That alone will set you back more than a grand. You'll then want to add lockers, which add to the cost, then gear the axles, then get big tires. So plan on $3-4k new for those mods, and that's before you get to the 6-stud steering.

I run the 6-stud steering with the arp studs because I wanted my setup to be bulletproof, and I could afford it at the time. It's overkill for my needs, but now I don't have to worry about breaking that. I also run dirty 30 axles, hardened hub gears, and hardened hub studs for the same reason. Totally overkill, but my motto is, if you're going to build something, build it right. My front end could easily handle 40" tires with the way I drive.

Do you have any pics of rigs that are similar to what you want to build? Is it going to be your daily driver? What tire size are you shooting for? We can give good advice on your build if we know what you want to do with it: we've been there and made the wrong mistakes.
 
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it looks just like mine before my chop steve and its red, he does want to DD and i believe he is running 33's

Since its a manual i agree with steve you will want to SAS it which will require high steer, Gear your transfercase down to 4.7's and maybe your axles depends on what gears it has now,and get a rear locker. All that will be not cheap but well worth it and will take you very far on most trails
 
so then what can i use the get the 5in lift. and be honest is that to big of a lift for these 4runners. i have heard alot of people say 4 is enough but their are those people that say it really helps.

Yes, 5" is too tall, especially with a 2nd gen runner. The frames in the front give you more lift than the old 1st gen pickups. Plus 5" tall will almost be illegal with the frame height.

I believe that a 3" lift is the perfect size for these rigs. The taller a rig is, the higher your center of gravity is. WHen you're wheeling on sidehills and steep obstacles, you want to be as wide and low as possible, not as tall and narrow as possible. It's more likely to roll with a bigger lift. Everyone has their preferences, but I think 3" is PERFECT for a toyota. I have a few friends with 5" lifts on their rigs, and they work fine, but I'd prefer a 3" myself.

You might want to stick with the 33's for a while. ricsrx on here wheels his rig on 33's where most rigs on 35s can't go. 33's are a lot more friendly for DD as well.

Looking forward to watching this rig grow up. If you get sick of my advice just let me know and I'll back off.
 
steve is right 5 inches is way to high for a 2nd gen runner 3 to 4 is just right and i dont htink it has to do with preferences its just way to tippsy when you lift them that high. I fit 35's with 3 inches of lift and some trimming so you will have lots of room for 33's
 
well i can get the six stud steering arm with the SAS kit i am looking for the trail gear kit is now 1,109 and thats with the 3-5 in lift and bliston 5150 shocks, and right now thats cheaper then what the normal cost is even for the basics, wich is 1200. and i love the advise keep it coming. their is never to much in my opinion.
 
get this with the 3" springs.

http://www.trail-gear.com/ifs-eliminator-kit


If you have the v6 (3.0), get the 3" HD springs. The engine is heavier than the 4cyl 22re, so you need the stiffer springs for v6 applications.


If the 6-stud steering option comes with the six shooter knuckles, then get that, it's a steal. I'm guessing it doesn't. If it doesn't, you'll also have to buy the 6-stud knuckles. If you're sticking with 33's, regular 4-stud knuckles would be just fine.

I have the 5150's on my rig and I don't love 'em. I prefer the blue monroe's. Only thing is, it's a pain to find the right part # for your lifted application.
 
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im sorry. i cant get those for some reason. if youd like send me the name of them and i just look them up.

thats funny i have been looking at that SAS kit. and really positive thats what im going to be going with
 
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got a knew computer and was able to see those videos. both rigs are sick pretty good size for only 3". got my axles and now ready to do my SAS:greg: so excited
 
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