lets see some welds.

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Jeep80CJ7

Member
you're a tool. stop trolling for a cookie.

wanna impress someone? then show us something you built otherwise you're a tool!

Actually i really don't care to impress anyone. I do not think that is the best weld. The best I have done maybe. Not even close to the best weld out there. that's what I was going for. I want to see some welds that a lifelong experienced welder has done. I see **** welds all day or night at my work. it would be nice to see someone that knows what they are doing.
 

James K

NO, I'm always like this
Location
Taylorsville, Ut
Actually i really don't care to impress anyone. I do not think that is the best weld. The best I have done maybe. Not even close to the best weld out there. that's what I was going for. I want to see some welds that a lifelong experienced welder has done. I see **** welds all day or night at my work. it would be nice to see someone that knows what they are doing.
then go to a welding site. this is a 4wd site. some on this site can weld better then others and some on this site just think they can weld.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
If steel is brought to ~1500*F (give or take depending on the carbon content) and quickly quenched (in oil or water) it becomes martensite. Above that temp steel changes the cubic structure which allows more of the carbon in the steel to dissolve into the iron structure. makes the steel very very hard but also very brittle. Martensite is the hardest phase of steel and also the most brittle. In order to heat treat steel, it is first turned into martensite and then heated to a certain temp. (depending on the hardness/brittleness ratio desired) and allowed to slowly cool. Since welding occurs at above 3000*F if the piece was quenched while it was still above 1300-1600*F it would have become martensite and would be very brittle (but also very hard). Generally it is a bad idea to quench after welding.

That's what I think as well... The only time, IMO, quenching while welding is a good thing, is you are trying to straighten the material (or bend it). ?
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Well my first pass i did a triangle pattern. burning straight into the root right above my two paused stops which created my puddles. then instantly straight back down pausing on each side making sure i have more time on the sides then the center to keep it flat. Second and third pass are just the z weave pattern. each pass I made sure my weld only went half way past the previous weld on each side. Not sure if that is a good explanation, but the best I could do.

And I only quenched the pieces of metal to make up for the size of the material. like I was taught in school. Doing a three pass weld like that without cooling on such thin material would make it way to hot by about the second pass and make the puddle hard to control. When doing this on thicker materials like it's meant to be done on i know and understand you would not quench it. bad idea.

Wouldn't waiting a few minutes and/or turning the heat down on the welder accomplish this, but in a better way than cooling it with water?

I'm no welder, always learning, so I gotta ask...
 

Corban_White

Well-Known Member
Location
Payson, AZ
That's what I think as well... The only time, IMO, quenching while welding is a good thing, is you are trying to straighten the material (or bend it). ?

Really the only time quenching (welding or otherwise) is a good idea is if you are trying to harden steel. Sometimes it can be done to KEEP the temp down below ~400*F (keeping the temper) when grinding (IE drill bits) but quenching to rapidly cool something that is 1500*+ is not a good idea unless hardening and embrittling is the desired result. FYI, steel glows red at about 1500*F.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Really the only time quenching (welding or otherwise) is a good idea is if you are trying to harden steel. Sometimes it can be done to KEEP the temp down below ~400*F (keeping the temper) when grinding (IE drill bits) but quenching to rapidly cool something that is 1500*+ is not a good idea unless hardening and embrittling is the desired result. FYI, steel glows red at about 1500*F.

Explain more what I was talkiing about and then you tell me...

Say I have a bent housing. I will take and run ~2-3" long beads then use a wet rag to cool it faster. Doing so allows me to straighten the slightly bent tube. I do as many as needed and over the area needed to pull it around.
 

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
Well here is how I see it. Im not going to judge him by what he put on pirate....most are asses over there...

I will give him a chance to do right over here, and if he f-s it up, well at least I had the decency to give him a shot.


But everyone can have their own opinion.
 

Jeep80CJ7

Member
i'm done discussing it on pirate. and this is the last i am saying anything about it. i said some lady looked like sasquatch about three months ago. forgot about it. that has been the only thing i have done to be an asshole besides mock the guys on pirate. Three months and they are still crying about it. i mean they are suppose to be adults on there. i wasn't very adult saying she was sasquatch, but i said i was wrong. that's all there is too it. some people just hold a grudge for way too long.
 

sixb

Will work for beer!
Location
West Jordan, UT
well here is how i see it. Im not going to judge him by what he put on pirate....most are asses over there...

I will give him a chance to do right over here, and if he f-s it up, well at least i had the decency to give him a shot.


But everyone can have their own opinion.

x2 100%
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
I havent seen enything in this thread that he should apologize for.

He's got a LOT to apologize for on Pirate, which was referenced, and I know a lot of RME members have seen it.

It's one thing to put your foot in your mouth, it's another to keep going with it.

But like I said, he's young, he can learn. :D
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
Maybe it was the fact that he said a particular race of people could only do things half ass and wrong that got everyone pissed off:mad2:
 

Corban_White

Well-Known Member
Location
Payson, AZ
Explain more what I was talkiing about and then you tell me...

Say I have a bent housing. I will take and run ~2-3" long beads then use a wet rag to cool it faster. Doing so allows me to straighten the slightly bent tube. I do as many as needed and over the area needed to pull it around.

This should be fine for a couple of reasons. First, The housing is likely not heat-treated and so you will not be removing that by the heating. Second, the housing is so big and you are heating such a small area that the rest of the housing acts as a heat sink-meaning that at worst only a tiny area will be above ~1500*F by the time you finish laying the bead. Third, a wet rag on an axle housing will not provide fast enough cooling to maintain the steel in the Face centered cubic structure. As a side note, I believe that cooling the weld in air will have the same shrinking affect you just won't be able to see it move. On the plus side, the risk of cracking is lower.
 

DOSS

Poker of the Hornets Nest
Location
Suncrest
Say I have a bent housing. I will take and run ~2-3" long beads then use a wet rag to cool it faster. Doing so allows me to straighten the slightly bent tube. I do as many as needed and over the area needed to pull it around.

wish I would have thought of that before I straightened one with 10 ton jacks and other redneckery..

Sorry no pics of my welds to post :(
 

notajeep

Just me
Location
Logan
I have never known James K to NOT tell it like it is. And for as little as he posts these days, for him to chime in on this kid makes me wonder. He may not have proved himself a tool yet, but he is for sure leaning in that direction IMO.
That being said, I may be wrong and he might be the cat's knee socks, and a great resource to our community.
It's still early, but fishing for cookies......:cody:
 
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