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Toyota Lexus 04 GX470

Rock Taco

Rock Taco

Well-Known Member
Location
Sandy
So today I took a big hammer to the pinch weld on the backside of the wheel well and used a heat gun to reform the plastic that covers it. I also trimmed the fender flare inside the wheel well. On the front side of the wheel well I moved the plastic forward by cutting and redrilling the attachment point at the bottom of the front bumper. Drove it around after and it no longer rubs with normal driving in those areas.

However it does rub on the swaybar in the front when turned full driver and the frame in the rear when turned full passenger but only on the passenger side. Not really sure why that would be.

I also noticed a little noise coming from the passenger front. I double checked to make sure everything I touched is tight. Pulled on the rotor top and bottom and side to side and don't notice any abnormal movement. I'm thinking it might be the lower control arm bushings. Any thoughts?
 
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Rock Taco

Rock Taco

Well-Known Member
Location
Sandy
So I took the GX on its first trip over Labor Day down to the Henry mountains, Capitol Reef and Grand Escalante National Monument. Mostly just washboard roads but it did great with no issues. I’m really pleased with ride there is still some rubbing upon compression on the front edge of the body mount. I’ll have to do the chop eventually.
 
Rock Taco

Rock Taco

Well-Known Member
Location
Sandy
I need to add full time power to the rear for the ARB and also for phone charging so I started tearing apart the rear interior today.

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I ran the wire through the factory boot at the firewall and down the drivers side sill following the factory wiring.

I’ve decided to run the fridge on the passenger side so I ran 10ga wire from the engine bay back to the driver side 3rd row cubby for the phone usb outlet first then from there over to the drivers side for the ARB outlet.

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I’ll be adding a 12 circuit blue sea fuse block in the engine bay for this additional circuit and some future ones as well. I’ve never really done auto electrical except for stereo stuff. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

So with those two power outlets in the rear what size fuse should I use for this circuit? I’m thinking 10 amp as that’s is the most the USB outlet is rated for.
 
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I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
I think I used a 30A fuse, since that's what the 10ga wire is good for. But I'm also powering my subwoofer, as well as the fridge/lighter outlet.
 
Rock Taco

Rock Taco

Well-Known Member
Location
Sandy
BlueWolfFab said:
You definitely want the fuse to be the "weak link" in the circuit.

A fuse that's rated for too high may not blow in time before something else that isn't rated for the amperage draw.

You mentioned your fridge was quite low draw, you could try a 5A fuse in there and see if you're blowing fuses, if you are, step up to a 7.5 or a 10.

Just my .02
Click to expand...

Most of what I have found says to size the fuse to protect the wire. since 10ga has a max rating of 30 amps I will probably do 20-25 amps.
 
glockman

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
Longer runs/more resistance also create voltage drop which is usually the cause of the heat. A motor running on lower voltage will get hotter and pull more current amplifying the problem.
To make it more complex, it really depends on if it's solid or stranded copper wire and the number of strands since the current actually travels in a field around each strand and not through it.

Everything I see for wire charts shows 10 gauge stranded at 20 feet in a 12vdc application has a max current capacity of 15 amps.

This is a good calculator.
https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html
 
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