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link mount design advice needed (pics)

troutbum

troutbum

cubi-kill
Location
SLC
OK so I just got the chassis in paint and thought I would throw out some pics to see if you guys think the link mounts will hold up. I feel pretty good about them but let's hear the suggestions??

500 HP 4000 lbs

Rear mounts
The cross member is 2 x.250 wall dom the gussets are 1.5 X.120, the plate is a mix of 3/16 and 1/4 wall
 

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troutbum

troutbum

cubi-kill
Location
SLC
front mounts 3 link:
I feel a little sketchy about the frame side upper, plate is 1/4 tube is 1.5x.120 wall tied into the engine cage. I can't put a gusset behind it because that is where the body sits...

I am not at all worried about the lower frame mounts
 

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BCGPER

BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
Sweet work!!!

The only thing I can see that I'd be concernered about is pic 2. It'll see a lot of pressure, and I can't really see how it's attached, but straight is strong. If you have the room, gusset it to the frame.:)

troutbum said:
OK so I just got the chassis in paint and thought I would throw out some pics to see if you guys think the link mounts will hold up. I feel pretty good about them but let's hear the suggestions??

500 HP 4000 lbs

Rear mounts
The cross member is 2 x.250 wall dom the gussets are 1.5 X.120, the plate is a mix of 3/16 and 1/4 wall
Click to expand...
 
troutbum

troutbum

cubi-kill
Location
SLC
BCGPER said:
The only thing I can see that I'd be concernered about is pic 2.
Click to expand...

This one?
attachment.php
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
troutbum said:
This one?
attachment.php
Click to expand...

On that one, I'd run it as-is, but if you choose to move the upper arms to the top holes I'd like to see some more direct bracing to that spot. Everything else looks strong enough to me.

One question though, why did you go so narrow with the lower control arms at the axle?
 
troutbum

troutbum

cubi-kill
Location
SLC
The short answer is to clear the frame at full bump It was kind of a domino effect, I wanted to keep the rig close to street legal (full frame), I wanted 50:50 compression:droop and I wanted a flat belly.

I know the links have less leverage on the axle...any other neg effects??

Here is a pic at full bump
 

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Milner

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
Location
Hiding behind a camera
troutbum said:
I know the links have less leverage on the axle...any other neg effects??
Click to expand...

More wear on the bushing, greater possibility of bending a link, less able to control the movement of the axle/maybe not enough triangulation to hold it centered. However, I have been surprised at how little tri-ang some rigs have that seem to work fine.

I say try it and see how it works, then make changes if needed.
There is no magic right #/angle/set up....just build it the way you want, if you don't like it, change it....:D
 
Herzog

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
Upper arm mount on the rear axle needs some bracing. That flat bar will tweak out of shape fast.

Other than that, great job!
 
troutbum

troutbum

cubi-kill
Location
SLC
rod ends are fairly beefy... when I bought the steel I thought it would be plenty 2x.250 DOM... I think that is fine for buckling forces, but not so sure on the rock resistance...
 

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troutbum

troutbum

cubi-kill
Location
SLC
Herzog said:
Upper arm mount on the rear axle needs some bracing. That flat bar will tweak out of shape fast.

Other than that, great job!
Click to expand...

Thanks, I still need to final weld and gusset both axles...not really sure what I want to do on the rear truss... options are bolt on brace to the diff cover (BTF) or nickle rod and weld it to the cast center section. To be honest I am afraid of welding to cast...
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
troutbum said:
Thanks, I still need to final weld and gusset both axles...not really sure what I want to do on the rear truss... options are bolt on brace to the diff cover (BTF) or nickle rod and weld it to the cast center section. To be honest I am afraid of welding to cast...
Click to expand...

What axle is it? Both my D60's have the mounts welded right to the cast, works great. 14 bolts that I've seen welded don't seem to work as well, they must be cast from something a bit different. (I can see you don't have a 14B, just throwing that out for reference)

I used my mig to weld my mounts up. You're welcome to come by and check 'em out if you want to.
 
Herzog

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
I Lean said:
What axle is it? Both my D60's have the mounts welded right to the cast, works great. 14 bolts that I've seen welded don't seem to work as well, they must be cast from something a bit different. (I can see you don't have a 14B, just throwing that out for reference)

I used my mig to weld my mounts up. You're welcome to come by and check 'em out if you want to.
Click to expand...

Same here. One of my front control arm mounts are welded directly to the cast w/ mig. Pre-heat, post-heat... no problems. :cool:
 
Milner

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
Location
Hiding behind a camera
Herzog said:
Same here. One of my front control arm mounts are welded directly to the cast w/ mig. Pre-heat, post-heat... no problems. :cool:
Click to expand...

I had mig'd welds break away from cast, but the re-do with nickle rod has held up to some good abuse! But it was in a radius arm set up, so lots of twisting forces....
 
troutbum

troutbum

cubi-kill
Location
SLC
OK you guys talked me into it...pre and post heat and used the MM210. not sure if I still need to do something tied into the diff cover or if this is enough, any votes?...probably should have a done a build up thread....:rofl:
 

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I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
troutbum said:
OK you guys talked me into it...pre and post heat and used the MM210. not sure if I still need to do something tied into the diff cover or if this is enough, any votes?...probably should have a done a build up thread....:rofl:
Click to expand...

If that flat plate is as thick as I think it is, you'll be fine as-is. (looks like 1/2"?) The only concern with NOT tieing it to the diff cover is if the flat plate will twist over time--if it's 1/2", I don't see it budging.
 
troutbum

troutbum

cubi-kill
Location
SLC
yeah It is 1/2"... I don't want the tubes to spin, Just don't know if the gusset off the back which I welded to the top of housing is enough to keep it together.
 
Bart

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
I used a similar design on my second buggy and it worked great. Just make sure you have room for the bolt ends and nuts in the middle.
 
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