Looking for a fair CB antenna need help
- Thread starter TROKITA
- Start date
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Magnetic is cheaper overall, comes with the coax.
JL Rockies
Binders Fulla Expo
- Location
- Draper
I've used a FireStik with a fender mount for years with excellent results. I feel it's the best solution because it was the highest point in the area and I could keep my eye on it. I've been lazy about getting it on my 4Runner and elected to buy a mag mount and replace it 3x as each fell apart.
If you want to be expo, you gotta go fender mount.
If you want to be expo, you gotta go fender mount.
That is pretty good. Are magnetic usually that much smaller? It only looked like a foot tall or less.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
read the details. it's 37" long.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
No worries. I've used a k30 magazine mount that I picked up from flying j in slc
I hear the lil wil is better though.
I hear the lil wil is better though.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Which model were you using? What issues did you have with it? Did it fall off or did it just stop working?
JL Rockies
Binders Fulla Expo
- Location
- Draper
The first one I bought from Flying J, I don't remember the brand, it had a bluish packaging. I bought it because it was the most tunable and it worked great until I hit the dirt, the mast fell right off. Upon inspection, the mast base wasn't tapped all the way to the edge so only one thread was holding it on to the mag base. I spent some time at camp filing down the mast base so more threads would contact. After getting three good turns I feld good about the mount, the next day, the mast fell out of the newly secured base.
The next 2 were Scosche, one got destroyed when it flew off the roof and the other it useless since the antenna base became separated from the magnet which remained on the roof. The Scosche wasn't a tuneable application. Being expo is hard on gear. I still need to get the real deal mounted in my Runner, maybe I'll order a fender mount this week.
The next 2 were Scosche, one got destroyed when it flew off the roof and the other it useless since the antenna base became separated from the magnet which remained on the roof. The Scosche wasn't a tuneable application. Being expo is hard on gear. I still need to get the real deal mounted in my Runner, maybe I'll order a fender mount this week.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Red is +12v, black is ground. For the Red (+12v)I run from the battery --> fuse --> CB radio. For the ground, I find a nearby screw that's grounded to the chassis. Instead of an inline fuse, I use an aftermarket fusebox for all my extra electrical. Clean and easy to diagnose/change out (posts #5 and 6) here: http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?88552-97-tacoma-build-Abner
JL Rockies
Binders Fulla Expo
- Location
- Draper
In my KJ I had the audio through a signal sensing switcher. This was I could enjoy my tunes and when someone keyed up, it would mute the stereo and I could hear the CB though my speakers and then it switched back after transmission. I am pretty gangster though... I don't recommend the part time enthusiast attempt.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
pretty close. Technically, you don't have to wire the negative at all. Just connect the positive to the battery, and the fuse block interrupts your line with a fuse. The ground can be anywhere, it doesn't need to be grounded to the fuse block. That allows me to feed only one wire (+12v) through the firewall per item, instead of having to run a long ground through there too. Kinda hard to explain in writing, but it makes sense in my head. Basically, ground your unit to the closest ground you can, and run the power through the fuse block. The fuse block doesn't need to be grounded.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
I have to disagree with ya on the the ground Steve. Best results are achieved with the ground going straight to the frame or battery. Grounding to the body is relying on more transition points that are painted or coated in anti-corrosion treatments, which do not always allow good conductivity.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Interesting, I can definitely see your point. Maybe I'll have to rethink that. I always remove paint when grounding to the chassis, and the chassis I'm grounding to is attached to the battery. I was taught that the shorter ground wire the better. Maldito, listen to Hickey, it sounds like he knows more about it that I do. I'm no electrician.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Oh, I'm no electrician either, but grounding problems are the most common issue with a CB and CB antenna.
As far as tuning goes, you are most often referring to tuning the antenna when people talk about CB installations. You don't NEED to tune the antenna, you NEED to check the SWR'S of the antenna system and then tune if needed so your CB will last. Most often, you can install a new CB and antenna and be totally fine right out of the box... If you have good grounds. You won't know unless you check. DAA's radio had fantastic received when he showed up at my house. He was literally picking up the East Coast. Tuning your antenna won't change your recieve/transmit distance very much, it will just make your radio last.
As far as tuning goes, you are most often referring to tuning the antenna when people talk about CB installations. You don't NEED to tune the antenna, you NEED to check the SWR'S of the antenna system and then tune if needed so your CB will last. Most often, you can install a new CB and antenna and be totally fine right out of the box... If you have good grounds. You won't know unless you check. DAA's radio had fantastic received when he showed up at my house. He was literally picking up the East Coast. Tuning your antenna won't change your recieve/transmit distance very much, it will just make your radio last.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Well said.