Machining dana 60 drw hubs

tiny2085

HomeGrown
Location
Two-will-uh
You can't actually "machine down" the hub ends, as that would mean you would need a custom stub shaft and it would interfere with your lock out or drive flange. If your running an 8 or 10" wide wheel you shouldn't have a problem with it sticking past your wheel, and if you do, get one with less backspacing.
 
would you guys pay 150.00 for a DRW chevy 60 front, thats what i got one for and after looking into SRW hubs i figured i would get them new since i am into it for under 500.00 after new hubs.

here in the rust belt ( new england ) the axles still can be found for cheap money roting in some farmers back field but they need work, i am getting another for free but the guy told me the cover rusted thru and has water in it, but still its free., jason.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
420willys said:
would you guys pay 150.00 for a DRW chevy 60 front, thats what i got one for and after looking into SRW hubs i figured i would get them new since i am into it for under 500.00 after new hubs.

here in the rust belt ( new england ) the axles still can be found for cheap money roting in some farmers back field but they need work, i am getting another for free but the guy told me the cover rusted thru and has water in it, but still its free., jason.


I paid $100 for mine. I'm at $600+ without including my steering parts and still not done. That's no locker either. I'm not saying it's not worth that, but getting a SRW would have been a little more convenient.
 

OCNORB

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
Alpine
mbryson said:
That seems a little far, but I'll let you know in a few weeks. (I need someone to buy my Suburban or I'd already know.) I think it'll be more like an 1" to 1.5" with lockouts. Less with drive flanges.

You guys got me curious, so I stuck a Hummer wheel on the Dana 60 I am using:

hubs_stick_out_sm.jpg


It is not on all the way- it needs to slide on 1 more inch, but the steering arm cast into the knuckle gets in the way, so add 1 inch to what you see. I need to figure out what to do about the steering arm now, I guess.
 

OCNORB

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
Alpine
toykrawler said:
is that a drw hub machined down?? with my driving that hubs would last about 1 trail!

No, it's SRW. I bet it would last fine with lockouts.
 
ya with lockout hubs it would last for a while but who in there right mind wants that big hub sticking out like a soor thumb, this was the problem i had when we where mocking up the rockwell axles in my buggy, could not decide to run hubs in or out and what type of rim to keep them off the rocks, jason.
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
the mounting flange is the only thing different between the dually and single wheel 60's: the axles are the same. On the dually deal, the wheel flange is just farther outboard. IF you're gonna run Hummer rims, use dually hubs, backspacing is about the same on the dually rims.

and, if you machine them off, you'll be supporting the wheel on the rotor mount flange, which may or may not be a cause of concern. I am reasonably sure there wouldn't be any problem, but the chance of having something break, with my wife and kids inside on the freeway, made me insist on getting normal SRW hubs.
 

J Kimmel

Registered User
I got mine turned down here in Denver for 100 bucks, he does them all the time. Can weld on a support ring if you want for a little more but I opted not to. Personally its of no concern to me, they are way beefier than the Toyota junk I took off.

Ram Grinding, Donovan is the guy.

Also I got my dually front for 700 bucks.
 
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